Blogs from Central, Malawi, Africa - page 23

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Africa » Malawi » Central » Dzaleka June 9th 2007

Well as if the hassle with the immigration lady wasn’t enough I am now getting trouble from the government! I went to seek their cooperation in communicating to refugees who haven’t filed their claims yet that I would be available to help them, and was told that a refugee’s story is a secret between the refugee and the government. I was pretty baffled and told the official that I would think it would be up to the individual person to decide whether or not to share her story with me and ask for my help. So then he brought down the iron fist and said that the government would not allow me to counsel refugees without permission from above (which I am unlikely to get, let alone in sufficient time for me to do something ... read more
Burundian-style weaving
Nelson's mother and me
Nelson's parents showing me their garden

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe June 9th 2007

Arriving in Malawi was the scariest thing of my life. And I mean terrifying. The cab driver kept stopping on the side of the road next to groups of 20-something men. I finally told him that my colleague was waiting for me at the hotel and if I wasn't there in 5 minutes, he'd call the police. And then I took out my totally useless cell phone because I didn't have a Malawi SIM card yet and put it on my lap like I was poised to call the police. Not that I had a clue what the number was anyway… But that's beside the point. I get to the hotel and they tell me it's too dangerous to go out. It's 3pm in the afternoon at this point. I'm like, what the heck have I ... read more

Africa » Malawi » Central » Dzaleka June 7th 2007

Great news: Sourire’s rejection was reversed by the immigration official. I was with a couple of her classmates who are also going to study abroad with her when we all found out; it was especially exciting for them, since none of them was really able to feel good about their own approvals until they knew Sourire would be going, too. On Tuesday Elodie took me around the camp to meet some Rwandan families, since I have so far met mostly Congolese and Burundians. There is a new batch of refugees who just arrived in the camp from a transit shelter in the north part of the country, which the government is closing. There are about 400 of them, mostly single males from Somalia, and a few from DRC. Somalians are very striking individuals; they are ... read more
Temporary shelter
New arrivals from Karonga
Rwandan kids

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe June 4th 2007

url='/Videos/3622.html' onclick='dialog("/Videos/3622.html?popped=1","tbvideo",600,600);return false;'Mada scooping nsima Well to give you a quick update about the case of Sourire, the immigration official decided to reopen her case. She swore up and down that it had nothing to do with the pressure that had been brought to bear by us and others, claiming rather that she had been apprised of “new information.” But there was no new information—except the information in Sourire’s file which the official had neglected to read before interviewing her. But as my boss explained to me, a large part of being a lawyer is knowing how to remain deferential even after you prove someone wrong. On Saturday I came into the office to do some work online (we only get internet after hours and on weekends!), and then I walked into town with one of ... read more
Me and Mada
Mada stirring the nsima
Final product

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe June 2nd 2007

African travel is a humbling experience. I've arrived in the beautiful country of Malawi, as my second visit to the dark continent draws to a close. Malawi is often described as the warm heart of Africa, and travellers are sure to receive a special welcome from the Malawians who are famed for their friendliness. In hindsight though, if someone were to stop me in the street to ask the question: Hey Tom, you're an experienced traveller now, what are your views then on the future of Africa? Unfortunately my response would be that I'm stumped for an answer. Africa ... fascinating, infuriating, scintillating, excruciating and ever mysterious, the birthplace of mankind still faces a perilous future while the rest of the world continues to prosper. I keep my journals apolitical, constant reader, and deliberately so. I ... read more
Late afternoon shot
Sunset shot
Post sunset shot

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe June 2nd 2007

url='/Videos/3582.html' onclick='dialog("/Videos/3582.html?popped=1","tbvideo",600,600);return false;'Food stalls at Dzaleka Well I confronted my first real challenge here in a (near-)attorney capacity. Today a group of fifteen students who have been approved for a program to study abroad in a Western country had their interviews with the country’s immigration official to determine whether they would gain refugee status there. No student approved by the program has ever been rejected by the country’s immigration before, but to our great surprise a student from Rwanda I’ll call Sourire—whose refugee status has been recognized both by Malawi and UNHCR—was turned down. I went with a colleague to meet with the immigration official to try and determine what happened and whether she might appeal. The official was a nightmare. She couldn’t discuss individual cases, she initially said, ... read more
Magret and Grey in a Dzaleka food stall

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe June 1st 2007

Thurs 31 May Drove back to Mzuzu and, relief, an open petrol station. We’d only passed one other over the last four days, and that was out of diesel. Reputedly we’d been near to somewhere that sold it in 20 litre cans that they collected on the bus - but I hadn’t actually found that retailer. Then southwards down the lakeshore to Kande Beach. A bit of a culture shock as it is a large backpacker stop geared up for the overland tourist trucks and there were three of them there - about 60 travellers. One was the same truck that Tamsin had traveled in through Namibia so she reminisced with the guide and made a date to meet him again in Zanzibar, where they both expect to be in a couple of weeks. Fri 1 ... read more

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe May 28th 2007

Am at Lilongwe now.. the capital of Malawi.. Internet's ok.. about 400 malawi qwachas / hr (1USD=145malkwacha) Just spent 4 days a long Lake Malawi.. not too bad.. Lake Malawi is a pretty nice lake.. it's kind of amazing to see such a big body of water.. with crashing waves.. and it does not taste salty!! Basically did some kayaking... swimming against the waves.. and did my first freshwater altitude (475m above sealevel only) dive! whoo.. something new to add in my dive log.. basically just saw a lot of boulders.. and this species of fish called chiclids or something.. they lay eggs and fertilize them in mouth.. and when fish hatch, they just swim out of mummy's mouth.. too bad didn't get to see this... visibility is bad at only 5-8m.. still enjoy saltwater ... read more
Campsite #1 - by the lake..
Us taking lunch break along the way
Village kids on the way to Livingstonia

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe May 26th 2007

So here I am, back in Lilongwe after spending an amazing 2 weeks at the lake. With only 5 days to go until my return to Blighty! Quite excited about that, although of course I will miss my time in Africa. What a continent. RIGHT so we left Lusaka on the 7th May - the bus journey was about 13 hrs or so and quite eventful! Alot of babies crying and being squashed, but the icing on the cake was when me and Laura were just dozing off at LAST and we felt a little trickle at our feet....the kid behind had relieved himself on the floor, giving our feet a moist little treat. Delicious. The bus arrived in Lilongwe at about 1:00am and we shared a taxi with a South African guy called Jason who ... read more

Africa » Malawi » Central » Lilongwe May 26th 2007

url='/Videos/3450.html' onclick='dialog("/Videos/3450.html?popped=1","tbvideo",600,600);return false;'Mwezi marking Greg's laptop Thursday I spent another day meeting with Mike all day, since it would probably be our last office day before his departure (Friday is a camp day). In the afternoon we had a birthday party for the outgoing country director, who is moving on to work with refugees on the U.S.-Mexican border. One of the Malawian teachers at the camp, Isaiah, brought music he had composed, and the Malawian women on staff demonstrated some traditional Malawian dancing. Us mzungu women ended up being pressured into trying it out, which was a disaster. As someone pointed out, you need to have African hardware (for lack of a better euphemism) to dance like that! Every Thursday Matt hosts a movie night at our house which usually attracts 25-30 expats (he actually lug ... read more
Lilongwe river
Entrance to the kaunjika market
This is what it looks like as you enter the market




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