african belly

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It's happened again - i finish my project, looking forward to seeing some of the country, and i get ill. This time it's a stomach bug that went round the lodge over the last couple of weeks. I'll spare you the details, but i've taken my antibiotics and it seems to be improving - don't panic mum, it's nothing serious!
I'm at Mubuya Camp, a backpackers place in Lilongwe with a swimming pool, bar and good internet connection. I've taken a double room rather than a dorm as i've been ill.
Last week back at the lake, we finished spraying a couple of homes in namacoma and completed the survey of chizula. I was quite moved by the homes we visited in namacoma - small straw huts that look unlikely to cope with the approaching rainy season, each sleeping large familes (2 adults plus 5 or 7 kids). When i expressed concern to Alex and Neale over the plight of these people once the rains come, they seemed uninterested. The homes are temporary as the families have recently moved from nearby mangotchi, but permanent ones cannot be built before next year's dry season.
On our last day of surveying Alex asked me again for help with learning basic computing skills. Belatedly, i realised he was asking me to pay for him to attend a course, rather than teach him myself. Given our difficulties in getting on, i was unsure what to do. I had a talk with the MVO people and suggested that the course could be paid for by them as staff development out of the money we pay to volunteer. Eventually it was agreed that we would split the cost 50/50. 5000 kwacha isn't very much money to me, but could make a huge difference to Alex.
On that same day i was approached by 2 other people for 'sponsorship' or 'aid' for education and had to make difficult decisions. It was awkward because although i can see that paying for education is worthwhile, and will have knock-on effects, benefitting not just the individual but also the wider community, the manner in which the requests are made is very direct, almost hectoring, and the impression is given of the donation being expected. I don't think the locals understand the level of financial commitment already made just to be on the projects. I think they also believe we have almost limitless funds. One guy told me that he was sure i had 'ways and means' to raise money for him.
A few of us travelled south to the Zomba Plateaux for the weekend. The climate is much easier there - slightly cooler and much less humid. We took the hire car, enjoying the views on the approach to the plateaux, and then as the road skirts round the side of the escarpment. On reaching Zomba town we turned right, travelling up to the Ku Chawe Inn along a road of hairpin bends and sheer drops without barriers. At every bend a group of children stand, walking out dangerously close towards the car as you slow, offering bowls of berries collected from the bushes. Outside the hotel itself is stretched a row of curio stalls, the stall holders unusually reserved after the cajoling experienced in Lilongwe and near the lake. From the hotel's terraced garden there would have been amazing views of the plain below were it not for the smoke from forest fires. That evening we enjoyed the luxury of hot showers and cable tv, catching up on the US elections on bbc news 24. On saturday we went for a hike through the trout farm and nature reserve up to Williams falls. Most of the area is pine plantations but the reserve is indigenous, the vegetation green, lush and tropical, with huge ferns and moss hanging from tree branches. Unfortunately, on the sunday i had to stay near a toilet so missed out on more walking.
Sunday evening back at the lake was drinks on the beach round a fire, swapping email addresses, promises to stay in touch and goodbyes to those leaving early the next morning for the airport. We were able to set off for Lilongwe a bit later on monday, after more goodbyes to staff and other volunteers. Uneventful drive to lilongwe, a meal in Don Brionis and an early night ready for dropping people off at the airport at 5.30am. Raced back to Mabuya through morning traffic, anxious about missing a turning but needing to get to a toilet fast. Spent yesterday feeling physically sick and homesick, but had to go with the hire car guy to get a quote for something that was broken on the car. Probably the worst day of the whole trip, but it's a new day today and things can only get better. Have started planning the next stage, going up north on the ferry.

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