Baringo, Nakuru, and the Masai Mara

---

---

Jambo. We have arrived, safe and sound, and have already been on our first excursion. Nairobi is quite a hectic city, with very few visible travellers. The city centre is quite safe during the day, however, culture shock is in full effect. We spent the first few days staying at a business hotel just outside the city, acclimatizing and preparing for the next stages. On the 1st of December we departed on a 6 day safari in a massive overland truck, heading to a few rift valley lakes and then spending a few days in the Masai Mara. We started with a guide, driver, cook, a Polish couple and a Dutch couple. After the first two nights we met up with 3 more couples, but our 26 seat truck was more than accomodating. This was a full board safari with delicious food, intelligent and aware staff, and great company along the way.
Heading out of the city, through the seemingly endless slums of Nairobi, we finally got to view the lush and green countryside of Kenya we had come to visit. The roads along the way were windy, dangerous, and extremely bumpy. Those with serious motion sickness problems would be in trouble, I managed to survive. Will and I both realized that overland travel will be far more difficult than even we had prepared for. Little children running to the street and yelling, waving, and smiling at us instilled in us the happiness and care Kenyan families share despite their rough circumstances. There is no infrastructre to speak of, yet every village is littered with general stores selling modern conveniences, and everyone and their cow seems to own and constantly use a cell phone, regardless of how rural you are. Our first night was spent on Lake Baringo, after a boat ride viewing hippos and endless birdlife. The grunting hippos around our tents that evening were enough to prevent anyone from leaving their tent, no matter how badly you had to pee. The next day we stopped at Lake Bogoria for our first view of flamingos, and other plains wildlife. Geysers shooting off in front off the mountains was quite a beautiful sight. We then headed to Lake Nakuru, where we spent the night. Probably my favorite of the game drives, we spotted buffalo, black and white rhinos, zebras, gazelles, impalas, a black mamba, baboons, monkeys, pelicans, and about 1,000,000 flamingos scattering the outer rim of the lake.
The next day we left to meet up with the rest of our group, and headed down the dusty road into Masai land, Kenya (and perhaps all of Africa's) most celebrated tribe. Cow and goat crossings were a regular occurence, with Masia children as young as 3-4 herding up to 60 cattle. The next 3 nights we camped at a site just outside the park, and went on sunrise and sunset game drives, drank beers (warm) around the campfire at night, and continued to enjoy delicious camping cuisine. The food was highlighted by our chef baking a cake and making banana custard, all on a campfire, on our last evening. Will and I will not eat like this again for a long time. Throughout the drives we completed our big 5 experience, and saw everything you imagine to be in the vast plains of the Masai/Serengeti landscape (or the lion king): Elephants from up close, crocs and hippos battling in a river, giraffes grazing, even a jackal fleeing the scene with a gazelle baby. The highlight for myself, most definitely, was the King of the Jungle. We saw lions feeding twice, lion cubs being playful for an hour or so, sleeping, and then two lions mating while a brother watched (creepy, I know). The older brother had to make sure the younger didn't interfere, and at one point attacked his him. Two full grown males roaring with their teeth bared and wrestling was one of the most surreal, and frightening things I have ever seen. After this week there is no doubt who the king of the jungle truly is.
We are now back in Nairobi, staying downtown, arranging our trip to Naro Moru, where we will then attempt to summit Point Lenana, Mt. Kenya. We are starting to gain contacts throughout Kenya and Tanzania, as it is becoming very evident that tourists are charged far more then locals for the same activities and services. Zero mosquito bites to report, healthy and happy, and I hope all is well at home
-Graham
ps. Canucks were third overall in NHL standings at time of publishing. See you for the cup run.
Having a little trouble with pics at the moment, but we got LOTS so don't worry, you'll have them in no time.

---