Fallen in love with Lamu

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Have you ever arrived at a place and just felt it was right? That's what I felt like when we got here. On Mon. we took a plane from Malindi to Lamu (only 25 min.). The airport (which is just a few shade structures) is on the mainland. We then had to strap on our bags and walk down to uor dhow. We had to cross two other boats to get to ours and trust me, it's not easy climing through other boats with a big bag on your back. But anyway... We then headed for the island.

Lamu has a population of about 20,000. It's a gorgeous island. The house I'm staying in is beautiful and the view from the roof is amazing. The city is surrounded by a palm tree forest. The houses are all stone and have thatched roofs. Some of the traditional homes have siding from coral. (that's really pretty) The doors here are also very very pretty.

Before we arrived here, we were told that the town only had one car. I was really suprised, but now I see why. The streets here are so narrow that people sometimes have to walk in a single file line (yes, walk). A car would be useless here. The way people cart things around is either by carts with wheels, carrying it themselves, or donkey. Donkeys are everywhere. Most aren't tied up and just roam wherever. There's even a donkey hospital. =)

I started Swahili class on Tue. I was placed in the advanced class with Allegra, Soraiya (from Tanzania), Sally and Akinyi (who's dad is from Kenya). That was really really challenging. Went very very fast, but I learned a lot. It was boring for Akinyi and Soreaji though 'cause it was too slow. So, Sally and I got moved down to the other groups (both beginning groups). It was ok today. Boring though, 'cause I had already learned everything they went over, but it's always good to learn. It's amazing that in only 4 days time I can say things in the past, present, future, and past perfect tenses. Except for lacking vocabulary, I can have a relatively long conversation (with fairly simple sentences) with people. It's a lot of fun, but also a lot of work. We have 4 hours of language class in the morning starting at 7, then we get a lunch break and sometimes have a lecture in the afternoon. At 4:30 I meet with my tutor (a woman in the town). Bushra and I meet for 2 hours a day and just talk with each other. I say as much as I can in Swahili and every day it's a little bit more. I get back to the house just in time for dinner and then we all chill out for a little while. When my head finally hits my pillow at the end of the day I'm out of it. I also try to get to bed relatively early cause I know that the call to prayer from the mosque will be wakeing me up @ 4:15 in the morning. (They pray at 5 but the call to prayer starts that early to wake people up.) So afer the call to prayer starts I don't really sleep, I just lie in bed wishing I was still asleep. But, on the bright side, the call to prayer is gorgeous.

It's been so neat living amongst so many muslims. I'm learning so much about the religion and the culture. Almost all the women walk around covered from head to toe. They wear a black 'buibui'. Most of them also have their faces covered. It's such a huge difference from the US. But, I'm beginning to understand the culture so much better especially being able to understand why women cover themselves like they do from spending more and more time with them. I think to the western world being completely covered is a sign of subjugating one's self to the will of the men, but it's not just that. I think there is an element of that, but the buibui allows them to walk freely among the streets of the city without feeling like they're being subjected to the stares and calls of men. There's a whole level of anymosity that's liberating. There's also more there that's positive, but without actually being here, it's difficult to discribe (and I've only been here a few days, there's so much more I have yet to learn).

Yesterday Sally and I had class by ourselves in the afternoon and we ended up talking with Judy (one of the 3 teachers) about the drought. She's from Nairobi and told us that starting this week they're rationing water there. They've divided the city up into sections and each section only has running water 2 days of the week!!! And if in the next few months they don't get more rain, they'll be rationing electricity too 'cause they use the rivers for hydro-electricty but the rivers are drying up. It's amazing the most basic things we take for granted at home. I'm definetely learning to appreciate the luxuries we have in the States, but also how wastefull we are 'cause I'm getting along just fin e with a lot less than in the states (and not just with water)

I know these next three weeks are going to fly by and I don't want them too. The Kenyan's have a couple sayins: 'haraka haraka haina baraka' which sort of means that haste makes waste; and 'pole pole .... mwenda (forgot part of it)' wich means slow and steady is the pace. Things here really are pole pole (slow and steady). The attitude here is just so relaxed. Even just arriving on the island you can feel it. The hustle and bustle of life back in the states just doesn't exist here. I even notice it in the difference of walking down the street. When I walk to and from my tutors house I walk with such purpose and faster than others. In fact, the other evening while I was walking a guy called out to me "Hey mwanafunzi (student), why are you in such a hurry? Come talk to me!" I was in a hurry and hadn't even realized it but I had no reason to be, so I stopped and chatted with the guy for a while. This town just feels right to me. I've already fallen in love with it. I'm thinking of possibly doing my research project here, but we'll see. This is a place that I can really feel comfortable in and it's a safe place to be. I haven't even been in Kenya 2 weeks, but I somehow feel connected to this place in a way I've never felt before. Can't describe it, it just feels right. =)

I'm gonna get going. Don't know when I'll write again (as electricity here isn't always reliable and there's only one computer cafe (with about 5 computers for the whole town). I would really really love to hear from any of you. Hope all is going well. I miss you all very much!

Kwaherini

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Comments

[tricia123]

Loving Lamu
Hi Rachel, Glad you love Lamu and Kenya, I lived there for a few years and went to Lamu. Great that you are learning Swahili, I`ve tried to teach myself but you are doing it the right way. Keep enjoying it! Kwaheri sasa. Tricia, England.