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Published: September 24th 2008
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The sun shone, ants bit and the lone hyena, out in the daylight, skulked in undergrowth.
The first stop on the Wildlife Society trip to Weliso was the ‘National Fishery and Other Aquatic Life Research Centre’ at Sebeta. Apparently the half-empty pool covered with green algae is where Emperor Haile Selassie used to come to bathe. The fishery tanks didn’t seem particularly cared for, but we did see a few Tiger Fish (at least, I was told that was what they were). This spot was probably best remembered by the group for the hyena (seen by some) and the large ants with a ferocious bite.
The road out of Addis, once past Sebeta, stretches into the distance, hovering above the sodden fields of the Awash flood plain. The land was either covered in brown water or lush green grass - the kind that defines the colour green. We stopped briefly to watch a group of mainly White-backed Vultures, and one mangy dog, tearing at an animal carcass. Vultures have a bad press, but do a lot of tidying of nature and have their own style of beauty (in my opinion).
The next stop was at Tuluu Boloo
market. Like most markets in rural Ethiopia, many of the goods were displayed on tarpaulins spread on the ground. Brightly coloured materials made a stunning display draped over the wooden bars of some stalls. As is usual, we were followed by groups of children - some wanting just to say hello, some asking for money or a pen. Both groups were briefly halted by the fact that I answered them in Afaan Oromoo, the local language in the area. One man asked me to take a photo of him and his daughter; it seems a shame that I will not be able to give him a copy of it. But I did as he asked, and showed him the result on the display.
A little further on, after passing acres of land being taken over by flower farms, we stopped at Chafoo Gabriel Church where the sun glinted on the golden domed roof. A walk down to the (closed) springs and a look at the river from above (the path down to the river was flooded) and we sought the shade to sit and have lunch. Lunch was accompanied by an old woman with an axe talking at us,
and then selecting a nearby tree to chop away at. Elizabeth gave her some of her food, including the rest of a tin of tuna, which was inspected with a degree of suspicion.
We arrived at the Negash Lodge (Looji Nagaash) in time for a swim in the bath-temperature thermal pool and to sit in the sun, relaxing, watched over by a few Vervet and Colobus monkeys. It is a hard life!
The following morning, a few of the group were in the pool by 6am, as the steam rose above the water. Breakfast was followed by a walk to the top of a hill, giving panoramic views over the town and the countryside beyond, splashed with the yellow of Meskel flowers. We then drove to the Reybu River for a short walk along the banks, avoiding stepping on the white ‘waste paper flowers’. Stopping on the way to buy enormous pumpkins, we returned through Weliso to pick up bread for lunch (and for a few to have a sneaky cup of coffee) before heading to another riverside spot to eat. Lunch was eaten sitting on the bank, watching goats on the other side reaching for the tastiest
The finding of the true cross?
Meskel (27 Sept) is to celebrate the Finding of the True Cross. The yellow Meskel flowers only come out at this time of year. leaves, but risking a bath to get to them, and a Pygmy Kingfisher searching for his own lunch.
Finally, driving back across the fields towards Addis, we stopped briefly to watch African Spoonbill, Black-winged Stilt, Yellow-billed Stork, Egyptian Geese and Spur-winged Plover from the bus.
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