pyramids, temples and tombs

---

2-12-7 karnak temples complex where construction, destruction and reconstruction over millenia has made a marvel. traces of paint give another hint of the splendor. litterally defaced carvings tell of turmoil. the human story in stone. by the time we had lunch with reggae it was linto arvo and we boarded felucca by passing noisy smelly construction for obligatory sunset cruise. light breeze, too light, we ghosted across the flow to west bank. there the crew poled along the edge slowly working our way upstream. sunset thru smears of grey turned pink, captain mohammed got huge heavy oars lacking blades and rowed back across. then a final drift to our dock. not a real sail, pleasant nevertheless. stroll thru market to hotel. reggae continues a great source of information, good company and marvellous insight into egyptian life.
3-12-7 tardy start after kate slept in from late nightlife. ferry to west bank. collossi of memnon extra large. long walk thru fields and ruins (ramses III?) to valley of queens which apparently held princes. tomb chambers with full colour beautiful. back past poor hill settlement. gum trees!! lunch with collossi. waiter tried for twenty five, i gave him eighteen. then rendevous in village with reggae. went to his house for tour (usual unfinished upper floors, reinforcing rods uglifying roof) and dinner with family which had already eaten so it was just the three of us. kate outside gathered cluster of girls. then back thru cane fields to ferry. captain got backsheesh from kate and the hit on me too!! they're relentless. then regae stopped by tourist police and is fined 1500 egyptian pounds ($300) for no permit to be with tourists!!!!!!!!!!!! kate in tears. saddest of all i can't help but think it's an elaborate plot to fleece me. this is not a healthy society.
4-12-7 after a night where the dog from hell, i keep thinking cereberus, barked for 45 minutes, i awake feeling the possibility of fraud is fifty percent. of course kate already wants to give him money. out early over river we knew what to pay for ferry and five cents each for truck ride. driver unconcerned said allah would provide. we set out thru hillside povery to walk to valley of kings. pottery shards in thousands littered next to great deep hole. came to al-deir al-bahari hatshepsut temple complex instead, more statues and inscriptions. again set out over barren rock strewn path up to uncertain direction. fine day and good to walk in silence and clean air. hot but. we had gotten water. having taken wron turn, long way came down still two kilometers from kings. saw tut in his tomb, black with age. gave backsheesh to ticket collector to enter another tomb, a long tunel with horus and the rest of the heiroglyphic clan. mission accomplished. just as we begin to figure out the place we leave tomorrow for cairo and where ever we get a ticket to. at hotel no one seems concerned about reggae - no problem?!?!^*#?!

---