First Day in Egypt

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Egypt…I still can’t believe it! It’s one of the places you dream about seeing as you are growing up when you are learning about pharaohs and mummies..but to really go there and see it! How many people (especially Americans) get the chance to see one of the 7 wonders of the world? Not many…but not many have the “guts” either (Thank you China for upping our confidence for “adventure travel”). I can’t tell you how many times in conversations over the past month when I’ve said we are going to Egypt that I was looked at like I was totally insane. But it didn’t stop there…not only did they look, but they told me we were crazy. “Its not a good time to go?” “Aren’t you scared?” “They hate Americans.” (they don’t hate Americans-they love American $!) Those were just a few. The funny thing is, statistically Cairo has less violent and petty crime than Paris and London! So here we are…finally. A dream come true!

We got into Cairo around 12:30am Saturday. The airport was a cinch and soon we were met by the driver to our hotel. Our hotel is in the Zamalek area of Cairo which is considered to be the “rich” area (and quiet). Cairo is very noisy, so it is nice to be in a hotel that is in a quieter area. The hotel is considered a “boutique” hotel because it is not a 5 star or a major chain..it is quaint and nice. The breakfast has been good - a selection of croissants, toast, yogurt, cereal, some yucky refried bean looking substance, and rice pudding.


We started the day off by going to the Egyptian Museum. The gentlemen at the front desk of our hotel told us there was no need for a taxi - a couple of rights and a left and we would be there. Well, it was farther than we thought (it was 2km, if we made all of the correct turns) and we were slightly turned around for a moment, but soon we saw the signs (those signs are in Arabic and English-whew!) We finally got to see Cairo in the daylight and walk over the River Nile. Overall first impressions is what you would imagine a middle eastern city to look like. Monochrome beige everything & very “war-torn” looking. Cairo also is home to 17 million people…that’s 95% of Egypt’s population by the way. Only 5% of Egypt is habitable (Cairo is the world’s most densely populated city). Crossing the streets is, how do I describe it?? Like “Frogger x 10.” That’s the best way I think. There are no car lanes (if there are, they don’t matter), no crosswalks, you just run along with the rest of the people. With a population of 17 million there are no breaks in traffic either. The first major rode we crossed had 4 official lanes but it was really 8 “lanes”- that just means how many cars wide the road happened to be at that moment. Literally you just step out a go for it..couple of steps, stop..car, another jaunt, swerve…car…you get the picture. Looking behind us I could hardly believe we had made it. But, it’s like using a squat toilet for the first time -once you’ve done it and gotten over the fear, you’re all right (actually it’s rather convienent!)



They Egyptian Museum turned out to be exactly as it had been described. An almost giant warehouse filled to the brim with Egyptian Treasures….except you feel like you just went through a timewarp to 1920. If the artifacts happen to be labeled it could be one of many ways - printed on computer paper and cut out haphazardly, handwritten only in Arabic, typed but so faded it’s not legible…it is so sad to see so many treasures lost to appreciation because there isn’t the proper funding (we guess?) to properly display these items. The display cases are rather a joke, nothing like museums we all know of. The glass is all streaky, I bet you none of the glass is UV controlled. Only a few cases actually had humidity controllers. Quite unbelievable how they stored these artifacts. Of course the highlights are the artifacts from King Tut’s tomb which we must admit were amazing. Seeing his death mask was truly a magical moment. It seemed to glow in the middle of the room and had such amazing detail. His sarcophagi were also amazing..the amount of detail and beauty. All of his jewelry was beautiful, we got to see the mini-sarcophagi that housed his internal organs. When you think of a mummy, you just think a person wrapped up in plain old rags, but that’s not the case. There are so many decorations and adornments that were on his body (like gold finger and toes caps, necklaces, etc.) The other highlight is the Royal Mummy Room. This is a separate ticket that costs the same amount as the entrance fee into the entire museum (E£ 70 = $12). Inside there are 9 mummies all of them pharaohs. I have to admit that you can’t even wrap your brain around the fact that you are actually looking at a pharaoh that lived 4500 years ago. Not only that, but you can see their hair (curly & thin), teeth, finger nails, toe nails, ear piercings, battle wounds, etc....they were awesome. By the way, no cameras allowed inside the museum so you will have to visit the website to see some of the pictures of the artifacts: http://www.egyptianmuseum.gov.eg/



We had lunch at the Hilton Nile (I know, playing it safe) and then felt like a couple of zombies so decided to go back to the hotel for a nap. This brings up our first real taxi ride (the 12am one doesn’t count). I already used “Frogger x 10,” so I’ll compare driving here to the wildest video driving game you know set on difficult (where average distance between cars is less than 8 inches). Not only are there a million cars on the road swerving back and forth but you have pedestrians coming out into the street EVERYWHERE. These guys are the most skilled drivers we have ever seen. They are so aware of their vehicles and where they are. Of course the sounds of horns is a constant in Egypt. There is a meaning to the number of beeps they do- the most amazing part is that despite horns going off all around they seem to always know which “beeps” are meant for them. I was gripping a water bottle on our first ride, but soon realized that if I just look out the side window at all of the sights I’m fine. The taxi rides are actually relaxing as long as you don’t look straight ahead. We’ve decided that they are actually fun-these drivers almost make you feel safer than riding with most Americans!



We went to the famous Khan-al-Khalili market which is a maze of tiny vendor shops. We had dinner at one of the “cafes” We ordered falafel (deep fried chick peas) and Koshari (a mix of ground meat, pasta, rice, onions, and tomatoes) both were delicious but with each bite I keep asking myself if this is the meal that’s going to get me sick (we are taking Pepto at every meal in hopes of preventing it). Dinner was YUMMY by the way!


We were planning on seeing a traditional dancing show and headed away from the market to the building it was held in. It was near another set of markets…this is when we ran into Fahti…our new Egyptian friend! He was a nice older gentlemen that like everyone else you pass says “Welcome,” or “Hello,” or “Welcome to Cairo.” (Which brings up the Egyptians are very friendly). Anyway, Fahti asked us where we were from and proceeded to begin to show us around the fruit and vegetable market. We just began to follow him as he weaved us in and out of all of these areas showing us Sultan’s homes, neat stalls, Turkish Bathes, explaining different products that were being sold, etc…He would stop and tell Matt “that’s a beautiful picture.” You could tell he is proud to show off his home. As we walked he told us he worked for 40 years making the famous inlaid boxes but his eyesight has given out, so now his son does the work. He took us and introduced us to him in his workshop where we got to see how the boxes were made & polished. He took us to his little “room/shop” (closet) where he had been for the 40 years. Plastered over every inch of the walls were pictures of him with tourists and business cards. He proudly showed us many of them. Before we knew it we were presented with tea and Sheesha to smoke. So, we sat with Fahti drinking tea (Yummy!) and he taught us how to smoke the Sheesha. I have to admit that I tried a cigarette when I was 15 (I think?) and I remember hacking up a lung and feeling awful for the entire day. This experience seemed completely different. Very mild (Matt says I wasn’t sucking in enough?) Of course we purchased a couple items from Fahti…especially for the memory. He had us sign a book that he has all of the people he meets sign…there were many different languages in there all thanking him for his hospitality. He was so proud to show us that this was a newer book, he had filled up other ones. Fahti then continued his “tour” taking us down tons of completely dark streets and weaving us through more markets…but these markets were different. They weren’t “touristy” there were butchers, spice people, coal makers, everything you can imagine. Fahti called it showing us “real Cairo.” Our experience with him was great..we ended up skipping the show but don’t regret it for a second!

Closing thoughts - Our trip to China definitely gave us expectations of what these “3rd world countries” are like. The tour books seem to hype, hype, hype…but when we got here it doesn’t seem as intense as described. Yes, it’s crowded (I mean way crowed) and vendors want you to buy from them (but NOTHING like China!!!!!). If this was your first trip of this kind, yes, it would be totally and completely overwhelming, These type of “vacations” are not for the light-hearted travelers! There are lots of whistles from the guys, lots of “you’re beautiful,” …and Tom, Matt got offered 45 camels just for 1 year with me…how about that?? Yes, Cairo is dirty (filthy in fact) there is garbage everywhere, flies, stray cats/dogs, raw meat sitting out in the sun - but nothing compares to walking down the street and enjoying how they live. They invite you into their “food stalls,” offer you tea and cigarettes..they are proud. They don’t have anything, but they are proud.

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Photos

Al-Ahzar Mosque
Across the street from Khan-al-Khalili market

Erin enjoying some Coca Cola
Check out the Arabic writing, and 1000 time recycled bottle

Pickled vegetables for Ramadan
He wanted his picture taken so bad

First time smoking a Sheesha
Fahti is a bad photographer

Fahti our friendly Egyptian
He was more than happy to show us how to smoke a sheesha

Comments

[Erin E.]

Wow!
That sounds amazing. Alot different than I imagined. I look foward to hearing more!