Egypt, Jordan & Jerusalem In 11 Days ... Trip Report

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I depart for Cairo from New York, Delta Flight 87. A backpack, some cash, a credit card, a Lonely Planet “Middle East” Guidebook and one night hotel reserved in Cairo. I have done some research on the Middle East and I think this is a good start for an Independent Frugal Traveler. My adventure will begin with a good night sleep (Thanks to Tylenol PM) on my flight to Cairo. I will hit the ground running in Cairo. First Stop, The Egyptian Museum!!!

An uneventful flight to Cairo, ended up with a window seat and after dinner (chicken with Middle Eastern flavor) got a good 6-7 hour nap. Thanks Tylenol PM! Nice and friendly flight crew that provided myself and a few other passengers some "snacks" for the road.

Egyptian custom and immigration was very easy. Although, if you do not have a visa buy it from “Visa Desk” ($15US) before you stand in line. An ATM is available in the arrival area before immigration.

Took the local bus to town (2LE) compared to 40-50LE for a taxi and a much better experience. For bus, exit Terminal 2 go across parking lot to bus station. It's bus 356 to Egyptian Museum but you will never find “356”. Buses are numbered in Arabic so just keep asking until you find the right one!

About an hour or so ride into town picking up many locals along the way most of them wearing "Levi's" which made me feel right at home.

Took a taxi to Hotel Longchamps ... paid more than I should have but just want to get there so I can begin my Cairo Day One ... Most taxi rides around the city should be no more than 10LE.

Hotel Longchamps came highly recommended and so far I am not disappointed.

This afternoon I will be visiting the Museum, Khan al- Khalili and Fishawi's for a little "Sheesha"...

DAY ONE. CAIRO.

Started with lunch at Abou El Sid (26th July, Zamalek) a short walk from Hotel Longchamps. Abou El Sid has a great atmosphere (like dining in a castle) with friendly staff that spoke English but was willing to give Arabic lessons. Started with a cold draft "Stella"(The Egyptian Beer) along with "Foul" a delicious fava bean green peppers & onions mix. For main course I chose “Fettah” which included risotto, meat and bread with a tomato sauce. If I were in Italy, I would say "Mama Mia". Delicious! Total cost about 100LE including tips.

All charged up I begin my walk to the Egyptian Museum crossing "The Nile" with smiles and hellos (Zi-Act) from kids even passing a band of singing teenagers along the way. I did not know what they were signing but I clapped and joined in to share their obvious happiness. Again, I felt right at home in Egypt.

Entrance to The Egyptian Museum 60LE and you get a nice ticket stub as a souvenir. Be sure to check your camera to the left of where you purchase your ticket before you enter the Museum. NO PICTURES ALLOWED INSIDE.

Since I did not want to spend 9 months in the Museum (The time it would take if you spent just one minute at each display) I opted for a highlighted self-guided tour. Tour guides are available and range from 50-100LE. I chose to tour Room 32,37,42 - Ground Floor then Room 2,3,7,8 - First Floor. To stand in the midst of exhibits from 2-3000BC was awesome! Room 8 - TUTANKHAMUN was breathtaking and by far my favorite exhibits.

To the insanity of Cairo driving with horns beeping and frequent near misses with cars and people. I hop a taxi 10LE (after some bargaining. most start at 20LE for tourist) to Khan Al- Khalili.

If you are familiar with Canal Street in New York then multiply that experience by a thousand and you still have not reached the level of merchants and people buying and selling. STUFF. How about an ongoing auction for clothes where the auctioneer just tosses the clothes to the winning bidder or kids 5-8 years hawking merchandise in plain English like the best salesman you have ever come across.

I am not a shopper so I survived the experience without buying anything but along the way I was called everything from movie star to Obama and even Egyptian (which at this point I take as a compliment).

After much navigation around Khan Al-Khalil I make my way to "El Fishway" for tea and to experience "Sheesha". The tea I handled pretty well but it took a little help and a few laughs from the locals to get the "Sheesha" going which turned out to be a worthwhile experience.

Another taxi ride and I am on my way to Midan Rameses Train Station where I need to purchase tickets for a sleeper train to Luxor. The taxi driver is very helpful but unfortunately, I have no luck. You can only purchase train tickets at the station so do so at your earliest opportunity and leave your "Sheesha" experience for later.

Back at Longchamps a wonderful hotel, I get a brief Arabic lesson from the night manger while picking up my room key. With a great staff, free breakfast, wi-fi and computer, Longchamps is a bargain at $54US per night. It is time to rest up (I think) for Cairo Day Two ... Pyramids, Felucca Cruise, More Cairo Dining and Hopefully A Sleeper Train To Luxor.

Before retiring from Cairo Day One, I decided to take a midnight stroll around Zamalez to cross "The Nile" at night and give me sometime to again reflect on my experiences here. Along the way, I pass by an American "Hardee's" many Egyptian late night cafes with tea and "Sheesha”. This time I resist the temptation.

In my experience, Egypt is safe and can be easily visited by an Independent Traveler. There is a police presence in most public places but it is more comforting than imposing. Freelance tour guides are easily available thru your hotel ($40US/Per 8 Hrs) or at tourist sites. Most taxi cab drivers will also give you their cell phone numbers ... I guess a cool thing for them to do. Graciously accept it and they will leave you alone.

Once here be sure to have lots of small change 1LE notes. It helps with your bargaining as most taxi drivers and street vendors mysteriously seem unable to make change.

I started my trip with $348US and 1500LE. After Day One, I have $333US and 1255LE with no credit card transactions. Not bad for all that I have seen and enjoyed ... so far!

DAY TWO. CAIRO.

From Karade (Hibiscus Drink), veal sausage and Egyptian pancakes to cheese, fruit and fresh squeeze orange breakfast was another delight in staying at Longchamps.

I check out after breakfast and leave my backpack with the front desk. A nice convenience since I have a huge itinerary planned today.

I adventure for another taxi cab ride to Rameses Train Station to purchase my ticket for the overnight sleeping train to Luxor ... I am now convinced Egypt has the best drivers in the world as I have yet to witness an accident even after all the horn beeping and near misses. I think with a little investment I could produce the next "Mario Andretti"! After paying $60US I am good to go on the 8pm train to Luxor although I will be leaving from Giza Train Station.

After somewhat helpful info from the tourist office, I play a little "Cairo Chicken" as I make my way to the bus stop. It was close but I won.

I wait about 20 minutes as numerous buses go by except the one I think I am looking for. In my best Arabic, helpless tourist mode I started asking for help ... Soon I am pointed to a bus packed like sardines with passengers hanging out the main door.... I became one of them, who needs Disneyland! While I expected to make my way to Giza Pyramids by bus, my joy ride ended at the Giza Bus Roundabout. Another taxi ride was in my future.

On the way to Pyramids, taxi stopped for fuel and I was surprised it ran on natural gas. Totally price for a fill up 6LE.

I did not know quite what to expect at the Pyramids and was taken by cab driver to a local stable. The sales pitch began on the ride there so I was somewhat prepared for the assault when I got out of the cab. I managed a 2hr horse tour for $40US from a starting price of $80US... however by the time it was over it still cost me $80US including tips and a local lunch. I did avoid the after ride sales pitch at the local stores. That been said riding around the Pyramids on a spirited horse was fantastic with great photo opportunities. I even got to touch one of them but passed on the climb and interior tour. The sand was a little rougher than I expected and littered more than it should be. There are a few new digs going on that where interesting to see. I would certainly do it again but at a better price.

Unfortunately ... I must leave now so I don't miss my choo choo to Luxor! More on Cairo Day Two... Later.
Cairo Day Two ... continued.

After a bus ride back to Giza I find the Giza Metro (1LE) for a trip to Old Cairo. Besides the "sardine effect" the metro is easy to navigate though I do miss the excitement of A "Cairo Taxi Ride". After a train change at SADAT STA, a few stops later I exit the train at Old Cairo. Here is the Coptic Museum, Hanging Church, A Synagogue and St. George. Where it is believe Joseph took Mary and Baby Jesus when they fled to Egypt.

I stand in the spot were Jesus may have played as a toddler. Wow! While at Old Cairo I also witness a group prayer ceremony and a ritual involving the chains of St. George who was tortured for his faith.

Old Cairo gave me the opportunity to visit a church, a synagogue and a mosque ... I appreciate the beauty and peacefulness that they all offer. Outside the mosque, I spend a few minutes playing soccer with kids near by.

If I had a particular destination in mind I would say I got lost many times as I left Old Cairo walking North. I think toward Cairo. Thru narrow streets and dusty alleyways I witnessed a father picking his daughter up from school, kids at play, street merchants at work, Egyptians going about their every day life.

Soon I am in fruit market and 4LE later I have about 3 pounds of guavas. Next I am picking samples of various breads from a local bakery and easily part with 1LE happy with my selections.

Before I know it my time is running short and I am back on the Metro towards my hotel. I get to play "Cairo Chicken" a few more times along the way, so far I am still winning!

After a farewell visit I leave my "Cairo Home and hop a taxi to Giza Station for my trip to Luxor.

At the train station the personnel are friendly. I sit back enjoy a few guavas and watch the local trains come and go. I think my $60US for a sleeper car will have been well spent.

8:20PM. ALL ABOARD, NEXT STOP LUXOR!

TRAIN

Promptly after leaving Giza, a tasty dinner, which includes rice, fish, and slices of beef, bread, salad and desert. This is served "Airplane Style" in my cabin. Drinks are not included so I enjoy my dinner with a self imported Heineken.

It's a 9-10 hour journey to Luxor. Time to relax and find out what Detective Bosch is up to. "The Closers" by M. Connelly.

I am booked in a double cabin but end up alone. The train is comfortable with bathrooms that are relatively clean and I don't have to give a tip (1LE) to use them.

I sleep relatively good the first 4 hours then drift in and out until I am served breakfast about 30 minutes from Luxor. Breakfast consists of an assortment of flavorful breads and pasteries served with orange juice.

The sun is slowing rising as we arrive at Luxor ...5:40AM

Past "The Luxor Welcoming Committee", I along with a fellow backpacker begin a 15 minute walk to Hotel Nefertiti. We ignore. "Taxi" and "Nice Hotel" offers along the way.

6:00AM ... I check in and schedule two tours for the day. Pick up time for the first tour ... 7:45AM

My room is clean with a large bed, private balcony and a very interesting bathroom. The toilet and shower occupy the same space! I think it would be a challenge to use both at the same time. A short nap, followed by a quick “HOT” shower and I am ready to begin my Luxor West Bank Tour (80LE).

WEST BANK TOUR

Enroute to "Valley of The Kings" we pass rich farmlands and large sugar cane fields. We are amused to see a few locals trying to capture a couple of donkeys that have escaped from a sugar cane wagon. It is common to see donkeys not much bigger than "Scooby Doo" pulling large wagons of people and stuff around. No wonder "A Donkey Prison Break" is in progress.

Soon "The Natural Pyramid" appears in the distant landscape. It is one of the reasons this area was chosen as a royal burial ground.

Valley of Kings has over 60 tombs. The most famous, King Tut's discovered in 1922. There is still active excavation here.

Visitor's Center has nice display and short video. 117LE fee allows you to visit 3 tombs with certain tombs like King Tut's costing an additional fee.

It is HOT, DRY and DUSTY ... bring water and snacks.

KV-2 Rameses IV has a well-preserved tomb history. It’s my favorite. NO PICTURES OR TOUR GUIDES allowed in tombs. The length of tomb represents the length of Pharaoh’s life that is buried there.

After a short visit to a local shop where we are given a history lesson and demonstration (along with souvenir sales pitch) of stones used in ancient Egypt, we next visit Deir al Bahri. Dedicated to the most powerful female ruler of Egypt much of its rich history remains.

There is a cafe in the shade but with tourist prices.

At both sites you will have to ward off souvenir sellers as you exit.

Our tour ends with the viewing of two 54 feet tall statues that once guarded Egypt's largest temple ... Colossi of Memnon.

Lunch is at Sam Elasel in Luxor. Kushiri (rice, pasta, beans), Chicken Sharma (warm bread, peppers, onions) and a cool Hibiscus drink is a delicious bargain at 12LE ... less than $3US!

EAST BANK TOUR

A 1500-year project with some areas still incomplete, we are visiting Temples of Karnak. With 134 gigantic pillars most over 50 feet tall... TEMPLE OF KARNAK is A MUST VISIT while in Luxor. You will be in awe by what is left of its original magnificence ... something that seems from "Another World".

In less than an hour the sun will be setting and this is best viewed from "The Nile". There is no haggling as we find a felucca captain that will make this possible. It is delightful to watch Capt. Hasan (From Sweden. brown eyes) skillfully manuever his boat onto The Nile. There is little wind so we are tugged down river to navigate the current back to our launch site. I get to be Capt. Don (From Bahamas), even rowing at times. I don't think I will make The Egyptian Felucca Olympic Team.

Masa Lama (Good bye) to Capt. Hasan and I begin my walk back to my hotel. This time I pass kids interestingly playing soccer with oranges and lemons!

A souvenir shop stop and I am involved in an engaging conversation with the shop owner. What you pay, 15LE? “Free” I counter offer. I don't get a bargain but I do get a "Free" bead and "Egyptian Magic" analysis of my name. He is 62% right about my personality. Not bad since the other 38% I am not even sure about.

Most tours to Luxor are one day trips with return to Cairo and other destinations by night buses or trains. From a fellow backpacker, I learn that I could possibly be on my way to Dahab tonight!

Dahab and Sham el Sheik on Sinai has had numerous terrorist attacks in recent years but this does not deter me from visiting.

8:00PM ... I pay 60LE($11US) and make a conditional (I might be back) check out. I hop a shared taxi (20LE) to the airport for a flight to Sharm el. The taxi ride is not as exciting as in Cairo.
9:30PM ... Air Egypt is airborne. In 45 minutes we will touchdown in Sharm el Sheik.

In the past 24 hours, I have experienced Egypt by TRAIN, AUTOMOBILE and PLANE. I have enjoyed every minute of it.

SINAI

11:00PM ... I am on the way to Dahab in a pre-arranged taxi. It's a well worth 200LE for the hour and a half trip. Just outside the airport, I experience my first Police/Military Checkpoint. Passports are reviewed and we are soon on our way.

Crossing the darkness of Sinai as Arabic pop music plays, I am sure I could see a million stars. Along the way, for no apparent reason the driver turns of his headlights and we drive in pitch-blackness. This "ritual" varies as we rarely pass other cars along the way. At Dahab Checkpoint there are no passport check just an Egyptian "High Five" by the driver and we press on.

12:40AM ... I check into Coralia Club a beautiful beach resort hotel with prices from $40US - $95US breakfast included.

DAY ONE. DAHAB

9:30AM ... I am up for breakfast and begin a day relaxing at the beach. I go for a swim and immediately I am thinking George Castanza ... The water is COLD and CLEAR but soon becomes refreshing.

On an afternoon Glass Bottom/Snorkel cruise (70LE); I meet a few people from Russia and Scotland. The water seems warmer by this time and has great visibility and marine life.

A group trip is made to town for dinner at "Sea Bride" a fresh fish restaurant. The dining experience starts by chosing your fish, which is weighed, and then your price is haggled. I chose Barracuda and King Prawns. Dinner is served community style with rice, bread, soup various dips and salad. Initial service is slow but no one is disappointed when the meal is served.

A stroll thru town and a stop is made at "Jays" where tea with oregano and a "Sheesha" is enjoyed.

A rush is made back to the hotel to raid the dessert bar before the restaurant closes. Apparently this is a nightly ritual. I use the opportunity to sample some more Egyptian food.

The evening ends sipping green tea and brandy while eating fresh strawberries and our "raided" desserts.

DAY TWO. DAHAB

Another enjoyable breakfast and I am excited about my morning windsurfing lessons. Soon I am in a wet suit and feel like an action hero. The wind in unusually light but soon I am on the board making nervous turns as my instructor Philip provides encouragement. A few more tips and I am sailing away. Unable to turn properly I paddle the board back for more instructions. My windsurfing lesson ends after about 2.5 hours and with my instructor’s blessing, I am officially a windsurfer!

Another lazy afternoon at the beach and I am invited for tea. No brandy this time as lagoon snorkeling is planned.

This evening dinner is at "Blue Thai" ... (Great Food) followed by another visit to "Jays". At "Jays" there is birthday celebration at another table and we are offered huge portions of birthday cake ... No dessert raids tonight!

10:30PM ... I say good-bye to friends and board a bus for a morning hike to Mt. Sinai.

MT SINAI

CLIMB

After an almost 3 hour ride and pass several checkpoints we arrived at the base of Mt. Sinai. I put on 2/3 of the clothes in my backpack (3 pants/shirts, gloves and hat) and fill my pockets with snacks.

1:49AM. After a short bathroom break (2LE=2 Pieces of TP), we begin our climb.

Camel rides are offered (85LE) as we begin our over 3-mile hike. An Egyptian on our tour tells me that walking up to about 6000 feet is far more rewarding. I sure hope so.

Shortly after we begin our climb a Crescent Moon ... "The Thumb of God" begins rising in the distance. This makes for an unbelievable night sky over Mt. Sinai.

The initial part of the hike is easy to moderate with the temperature changing with the wind from cool to cold. Camels move up and down the trail and if you are not careful you might end up with a camel kiss. Or worse.

As we continue our ascent, a pilgrimage of lights stretches from the bottom to the top of Mt. Sinai. Our guide gives us frequent "Egyptian 5 Minute" breaks at cafes along the way. The last part of the hike has a 750 step climb to the top.

4:25AM. We are at our final rest stop where blankets (20LE) and mats (10LE) are offered for the summit, which is just 50 steps away!

Blanket provides good wind protection at the summit as I wait sunrise. Dawn fills the sky with vivid colors and soon the sunrise is greeted with singing and applause.

DESCENT

6:00AM. After receiving a commandment, "That thou shall now continue your adventure to Jordan and beyond", I begin my descent via "The 3000 Steps Of Repentance" which should cover a lot of sins. This path will bring me to St. Katherine Monastery ... home of "The Burning Bush" and one of the oldest active Christian churches.

7:45AM. I am at St. Katherine and along with others in our group I am not impressed.

GO FORTH

My tour is scheduled to return to Dahab but if I can make arrangements I could be on my way to Jordan via a ferry from Nuweiba. "Tourist Taxi" fares are ridiculous, charging 300LE for a trip that should be 60-100LE. I consult with our tour driver and he offers to drop me off at a checkpoint 70km from the ferry port. There he thinks I can hitch a ride.

I sure hope his plan works because the desert landscape does not look "walker" friendly. On a road with few cars, our driver soon flags down a car going in our direction. Words are exchanged and soon I bid farewell to fellow passengers. I am in the backseat of a car on my way to the ferry port for 80LE. And you thought that commandment stuff was unreal.

At a military checkpoint, a soldier approaches the rear door. I think. “O. Oh” and reach for my passport. The door opens, the solider hops in and smiles ... he's a hitchhiker sort of just like me.

FAST (AKA SLOW) FERRY

At ferry terminal, I walk across the street to purchase my ticket to Aqdaba $80US. I am early at the departure terminal, which is filled mostly with locals. As immigration officers arrive there is a lot of chatter and jockeying for line position by locals. Apparently this displeases officials who barks orders that are quickly complied with. Tourists are not treated the same but are quickly processed by smiling faces.

Clearing immigration, I enter a large terminal with passengers spread all around ... some even enjoying lunch on the floor. I take a random seat near other tourists but we are soon told to "Sit over there".

The terminal is uncomfortable with dirty floors, hard benches and cats roaming around. Today, the fast ferry is very slow and late. We sit uninformed of the ferry status while flies take pleasure in annoying us. Wish I had a fly swatter. Whack!

Boarding does not start for the 2:00PM ferry until close to 5:00PM. Again, tourist are given preferential treatment.

Passports are surrendered for visas as we set sail. Most of the way to Aqdaba we can see the coast of Saudi Arabia, I think it is less than 15 miles away.

I exchange my Egyptian Pounds for Jordan Dinars on board the ferry and then enjoy a "snack-box".

Shocran (Thanks) Egypt.... Masa Lama (Good-bye)!!!

JORDAN

6:40PM. Welcome, “To The Kingdom of Jordan”. Aqdaba, Jordan.

A short wait terminal side and our passports are returned with Jordanian visas. A shared taxi to bus terminal 2JD per person and my Jordan adventure begins ...

Wadi Rum, Petra, The Dead Sea, Mt. Nebo and Amman. Stay tuned!

AQDABA

A stroll around finds a clean, safe city with a wide variety of shops and restaurants. I end up at ROVERS TAVERN (Aqdaba Gateway) with a cold pint of draft Amstel (3.5JD) and a light appetizer (6JD).

Sleep finds me at AL-ZATARI HOTEL (22JD) located next to main bus station. Good hotel with very helpful staff.

SUNDAY ...

A rented car (30JD/Per day plus 35JD drop fee in Amman) and I am on the 5000 year old Kings Highway. I am enroute to Wadi Rum 45 minutes away.

Exiting for Wadi Rum, the landscape tells me I am in for a treat. 2JD fee at Visitor's Center (Where Jeep Tours Begin), I take a scenic drive to Rum Village for a camel ride (10JD).

I find a "Parked" camel and soon I am "Don Of Arabia". Led by an 8 yr old Bedouin guide we make our way to Lawrence Springs.

The scenery is "Postcard Like" except this is the real thing with towering rugged mountains on both sides of us.stunning!

As if to break me out of my trance, my guide puts the camel into a sprint and I hang on. I am relieved and go back to dreaming when the camel decides to give my family jewels a break.

Passing Bedouin camps, we arrive at Lawrence Spring where I am encouraged to "Climb, climb. Take pictures".

On the journey back I ended up with a "Camel Backseat Driver" as my guide hops on board and lets me "drive" for a while. Later, we are doing "Camel Donuts aka 360's" in the soft desert sand as the camel bellows...

A little unruly on the way back, my guide is drug across the desert floor as he tries to control "Joe Camel" who makes frequent dashes for plant snacks. It also take a little help from the neighborhood kids to get Joe Camel back to the "Park". Dismounting position. Maybe he is just tired of carrying another "Lawrence of Arabia”..... Wanna Be!

I take in the sunset at Wadi Rum as it changes the desert colors like a master artist then it’s. "On The Road Again"

On my way to Petra, I witness the faithful outside of their cars saying evening prayers along the highway as they face Mecca. Daylight soon disappears and takes the scenery of rolling hills and winding desert roads with it.

I fall asleep just outside the gates of PETRA ... Petra Moon Hotel (30JD)

PETRA. WOW!

7:50AM. 21JD fee and although "Taxi's" (Horses, Donkeys, Camels) are available, I begin a 30 minute walk to "SIQ", the entrance to PETRA.

I lack the words to describe the beauty and experience of "SIQ". This is the stuff you think only Hollywood can create. Indiana Jones. However, this is no studio. This is nature at it's best. I am deep inside a narrow desert gorge hidden from the rest of the world.

As "SIQ" ends the sunlight gives glimpses of AL-KHAZNEH (The Treasury). Petra's most famous site. The full view is beyond spectacular.

Tombs, Temples, Ancient Theatres And Roman Streets can all be found here. I am a kid in "An Ancient Candy Store" as I set of exploring.

With frequent helpless photo stops along narrow paths and climbing steps, I slowly make my way to AL DEIR (Monastery). I met two cute friends on my way up who find my sandals playfully interesting. However, soon mom comes and collects them ... with tails wagging it's feeding time.

Reaching Al Deir, I am again rewarded with an impressive site. A short climb beyond you can view. "The End Of The World" ... Endless deserts in the distance.

There is a cafe at Al Deir if you need a recharge.

Rain clouds are forming as I start down the trail. Back at Al-Khanzneh, I experience a mini sandstorm and get to take a picture with a friendly Bedouin Police Officer. His uniform is unique and colorful.

The lights and colors have changed as I exit "SIQ" and I get another perspective of its beauty.

I begin my drive from Petra with a desert storm brewing. Along "The Desert Highway" to Madaba I encounter huge rain and blinding sandstorms. Windshield wipers create "patty cakes of mud" that I am constantly using wiper fluid to clean. At one point traffic comes to a complete standstill as the smell and taste of desert sand fills the air.

I arrive in Madaba to heavy rain and local street flooding. I am having trouble finding "BLACK IRIS HOTEL"(20JD) with even the Tourist Police pointing me in the wrong direction.

About to give up my search, I stop at Madaba Hotel and when told rooms where 45JD I asked for a discount. "30JD, AND I STOP TALKIN" was the harsh response I received. Well, EX...CUSE ME!! I eventually find Black Iris Hotel.

BLACK IRIS HOTEL

Odeh, the hotel manager is quiet pleasant and helps me plan my next day. I am hungry but it is miserable to venture out. To my surprise, Odeh makes me an offer ... 3JD and he will prepare me a home cook meal. I accept. 20 minutes later I am served dinner, which includes salad, pita bread, rice, chicken, vegetables and orange juice. What a deal!

Tomorrow... Mt Nebo, Bethany and The Dead Sea. Rain, rain. Go away!

MADABA

A compact town that has an important Christian history of it's own.

20 minutes outside of Madaba the landscape begins to change as I drive to Mt. Nebo. Although a bit cloudy a gorgeous view of "The Promise Land" is seen from there.

Leaving Mt. Nebo I am soon in a steep descent surrounded by smooth hills and desert mountains. I pass shepherds "watching their sheep by day" as they graze the hillsides and The Dead Sea can be seen in the distance. I approach a Checkpoint with soldiers and a gun-mounted Humvee... "Where you from? Welcome To Jordan". A smiling soldier waves me on.

Another Checkpoint and I drive just by "Amman Beach" and find an empty parking lot. A short hike and I am at the lowest point on earth ...the shores of "The Dead Sea".

At 200(+/-50) lbs I am floating on "The Dead Sea". It's a Ripley's Believe It Or Not Moment. The water is so salty it burns my shaved face and leaves an awful taste in my mouth.

The Baptism Site located on one of the most disputed lands is just 10 miles away. Previously controlled by the military, required guide tours (7JD) are now available.

Enroute to the birthplace of Christianity where John The Baptist baptized Jesus, we see the Town Of Jericho (The oldest "8000 BC" and lowest town on earth). Remains of the first church along with a mosaic depicting "The Trinity" can still be seen.

A brief walk and we are at appoint where the only thing that separates the shores of Jordan and Israel is 12 feet of "The Jordan River" which is guarded on both sides by the military. However, we are free to touch and take samples of the water were Jesus and others of the Christian and Jewish faith were and still are even today baptized. Elijah hill is also located at Bethany Beyond Jordan.

As if to authenticate our visit the afternoon weather produces a rainbow.

There is the "mandatory" souvenir walk as our tour ends but the vendors are not pushy ... "Welcome To Jordan".

As if sensing my afternoon hunger a local driver waiting for passengers offers me a half bag of nuts. A little Jordian Hospitality as I head to my car.

AMMAN

Rain is falling as I head to Amman. Thru farm lands fresh vegetables...cabbage, tomatoes; carrots are sold along the roadside. Trucks filled with these same fresh vegetables are passed as they make there way to the city.

Driving in Jordan is not difficult and you will always know the way to "Amman" if nowhere else. I am headed to 7th Circle, which becomes a challenge to find, as directional signs are soon lost.

While I wait for my car to be picked up I consume a couple of flavorful chicken sharmwas and a falafel sandwich for about $2US.

Unaware that "The King Hussein Bridge" closes at 4PM, I am stuck in Amman for the night. I spend some time at the bus station being entertained by a Jordian "Andrew Dice Clay"... "Vodka, Whiskey me like... Disco". I am given a dinner invitation but gracefully decline.

With the show over I hop a taxi with a few hotels in mind. Most are far too expensive for a short night stay. I have to be at the bus station at 6:30AM. The driver has a pre-arranged pick up which detours my hotel search. Thru a friend of our new passengers I am offered a hotel room and end up somewhere in Amman. This is the worse hotel room of the trip but also the most unique. Two Royal Chairs, Three Chandeliers and A Manual Propane Heater. I wondered why I was given a box of matches when I checked in.

Exhausted, I am glad for a bed and the promise that I will have a taxi at 6:00AM for my bus ride to Jerusalem.

40 YEARS

The "Moses Syndrome" is alive and well as I set of to enter "The Promised Land".

6:20AM. At the main bus station I have a falafel and strawberry "Fanta" for breakfast (1JD). We wait for enough passengers to show up before we leave for King Hussein Bridge. Taxi (12JD) and Money Exchange (40JD for 100NIS) offers are made. Both are no bargains. The bus is 3JD plus 0.5JD per bag.

I am the only tourist on the bus with men sitting in front and women in the back.

8:30AM ... At the Jordian Border, I walk around to tourist side and start the Jordian departure process. Bags are x-rayed in one building and then I walk freely with my bag to another building. At WINDOW-1 my passport is taken. WINDOW-2 does something with my passport and tells me to pay 5JD at WINDOW-3. There I get a stamp and take it back to WINDOW-2 who smiles and tell me I will get my passport back on the bus and "To please take a seat in ... "DEPARTURE LOUNGE-1".

Half an hour later a bus arrives to take us to Israeli Border (3JD plus 0.5 per bag). As our passports are given back by an official who has not seen us before a humorous exchange takes place with a few Arabic women ... apparently their passport pictures are too similar.

Two Checkpoints and King Hussein Bridge along with the Israel Border comes into sight.

At the Israeli Border, we are taken of the bus by the Israelis and our passports checked as armed soldier watch. I and another passengers decide to take pictures and plain-clothes officials soon approach us. They are polite in again checking our passports and asking to see the pictures we had taken. We were asked to delete the pictures but "You can take all the pictures you want once officially across the border". In my traveling bliss it is easy to forget where I am ... This is a Military Zone.

Back on the bus we are driven to the arrival terminal. Passports are taken and given a baggage sticker then it's thru normal airport type screening.

NEXT. IMMIGRATION.

"Why are you in Israel, Will you go to the West Bank, Where will you be staying, Do you know any one in Israel" ... Do the hokey pokey and turn yourself around.

Two more passport checks then customs, which is easy since all I have is a backpack. I miss "Welcome To Jordan".

While waiting for a shared taxi (37NIS) to Jerusalem I have an informative conversation with a Jordian American. I am told picture taking can sometime delay the border crossing 2-3 hours... Sorry. Born in Jerusalem prior to 1948 he has to visit his birthplace as foreigner. There is only about 50 miles between Amman and Jerusalem and prior to 1967 it took only 1 hour to cross ... today we spent more time than that at the border alone.

Enroute to Jerusalem we pass settlements on the West Bank and have one more Passport Checkpoint before entering the city.

11:45AM ... With the call to afternoon prayers being echoed from somewhere behind “The Damascus Gate”, I arrive at "The Holiest Of Cities". Most beautiful, Most disputed.

Not far from "Damascus Gate" I check into The New Hashimi Hotel. A strict Islamic house that allows no alcohol, smoking or unmarried couples in rooms. It is located inside the Old City (40E Per Night) and has great city views from 3rd floor balcony.

The Old City is an exciting area filled with ancient history and everyday life. Within its boundaries are most of the holiest sites to Jews, Muslims and Christians. The Wailing Wall, Dome of The Rock and Church of Holy Sepulchre (Site of The Crucifixion). Today, Jews, Muslims, Christians and Armenians share various parts of the city in peaceful coexistence, which has not always being the case. A military presence is thru out the city with male and female soldiers carrying M-16's.

The remains of ancient Jerusalem can be scene thru out the city although many parts have been built upon with shops, restaurants and homes.

The Walled City has seven gates ... From Jaffra to Zion all with histories of their own.

A self-guided roof top tour finds me like a rat in a maze looking for cheese ... thru narrow passages, up and down stairs and dead ends I am delightfully lost. At one point I pass thru a home or shop with Jewish men wearing "Square Black Boxes" on their heads. They cheerfully give me some sense of direction.

I sample fresh bread with spices and olive oil, pastries and fresh fruit on my afternoon stroll. A pita filled with salad, vegetables, french fries and fried chickpeas ends my evening.

DAY TWO. JERUSALEM.

Fresh pita with equally fresh tomatoes, cucumbers and hot tea starts my day along with friendly smiles in Hashimi's breakfast room from Islamic men and women.

I walk towards Mt. Olive with a detour to The Wailing Wall after passing "airport type" security. The solemn sounds of ancient prayers and rituals are a sight worth witnessing. A 20 min walk from here is Mt. Olive ... again a place significant for Jews, Muslims and Christians.

After Mt. Olive I hop on a city bus (5.9NIS) for a free tour around the city before disembarking at Jaffra Gate. Here I meet up with a "Free 3-1/2hour" walking tour of the city.

We hit all the important sites in the city except "The Dome of The Rock" ... Get up early for that one Sunday - Thursday with no entry after 1:00PM. Our guide gives us "The Cliff Note" version of the important sites with interesting stories to go along with them.

We learn about all the communities in The Old City and their history here. We take it all in, including a guided roof top tour!

My highlights. Revisiting The Wailing Wall and putting my hand in the handprint believed left by Jesus on "Via Dolorosa" ...The path he took to be crucified.

Our guide does a great job and he is deserving of a nice tip at the end of the tour.

Leaving Jerusalem Thursday Afternoon for Tel Aviv, I board a local bus for the Central Bus Station. The bus is packed to the point that the bus driver bypasses a few stops. Given the history of events on crowded Jerusalem buses, this is the first time on my trip I feel vulnerable.

At Central Bus Station another security check and I board Bus 950 for Tel Aviv Airport (21.50NIS). We arrived about 20 minutes late just outside the airport where we board another bus to take us to the departure terminal. Surprise, another security checkpoint!

Airport security is as expected and arriving 3 hours prior to your departure is a stress free idea.

This trip was planned as an Independent Frugal backpacking adventure. In 11 days, I visited Egypt, Jordan and Israel and for $1302.54 for all expenses excluding airfare I leave Tel Aviv with great memories from a wonderful experience.

I appreciate those of you who have contributed in some way to my adventure and I look forward to reading about yours. Safe travels.

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