To Madeira

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Day 60 Wednesday May 13

At sea up the coast of Angola towards the Gulf of Guinea

30c partly cloudy



Gail was up early and walked for about an hour. When she was walking she saw a pod of whales. She went to her tap class with Helene and then we did the first of the cruise line quizzes followed by the line dance class again with Helene.



We went to a lecture on Opera by the American professor who although he is a bit of a poser has some good information and is a big fan of Pavarotti. After that we had a cup of coffee upstairs and a little bit of lunch which we don't usually have. The "Second Best Marigold Hotel" was on in the Cabaret Room so we watched it. It was good and had a big crowd, then this is its market.



Then we sat by the pool,had a swim and read before walking for a half an hour then going to stretch. I have started to run, not far but a couple of times in the half hour.



We had a pre dinner drink on our deck then watched the Canadian singer Claude Eric after dinner. He was good.



Day 61 Thursday 14 May

São Tomé A$1 equals 17,233 Dobra

30c some cloud and very humid



As we had breakfast we could see the island of São Tomé coming up on our port side. There are some very high mountains. São Tomé is the main island of the country of São Tomé and Príncipe which are separate islands. There are a couple of other smaller islands that make up the country which was a colony of Portugal and received its independence in 1975. The language is Portuguese and there country's population is about 420,000.



Because it has no real harbour facilities even for a ship as small as this one it was a tender port. We had to go down to the lounge and get a ticket and wait for that number to be called. It didn't take too long. Loading the tender was interesting as there was a bit of a swell so some people found it difficult to board a moving vessel, but they got everyone on safely.



The trip to the island took about 20 minutes and disembarking was much easier. We walked down town along very broken footpaths beside a stone balustrade that was also in poor condition. It must have looked pretty grand when it was first constructed. We went to the tourist information centre and got a map for 1 euro. Interestingly they wanted US$2 for it because most of their trade is with Portugal so the Euro is more valuable to them. The Americans didn't like it much.



We walked into town past the cathedral which was built in 1586 and the palace which were good looking buildings but also in need of a bit of care. The town was very busy and the high school kids were coming through the streets mostly in uniform. We were not sure if it was lunch time ( which it was) or whether they do two shifts at the school.



We spoke to a French guy whose girl friend was from São Tomé which was interesting. There didn't seem to be a lot of shops but there were the inevitable people selling souvenirs who were not really too invasive. We went into the main market which was very crowded, very busy and very colourful. The fruit and vegetables looked really good but the fish looked as if it had been in the sun for a while, which it had.



We walked back down to the foreshore and up to the 420 year old Fortress of Saint Sebastian which is the national museum out on the peninsula. There was a group of about 50 little girls (ages3 and 4) all in pink with ribbons and beads in their hair on some sort of an excursion having lunch. Very cute but we did not feel comfortable taking photos.



At the fort we ran into Annette and Geoff who had somehow picked a boy of about 12 who had attached himself to them. We sat on a seat under a cover by the beach which unfortunately did not look very inviting for a swim. Geoff came and borrowed a US$1 from me to give to the boy to get rid of him because they had no small money. It worked. We walked further around the water's edge looking for the elusive good beaches where we had been told we could swim. No luck.



The balustrade went all the way sometimes with steps and seats all in a pretty sad state. We got to resort, Club Maxwell, having passed the Liceu National, at the end do our walk where the university was also situated alongside the casino ( not sure of the relationship there) and the conference centre. This part of town looked much better.



On our way back we looked at the Miramar Hotel and then went into a bar/coffee shop and had a beer and a juice. When I paid with a 10 Euro note I got hundreds of thousands Dobra so we had another. Some of the officers from the crew came into the bar. The girl serving us was very good so we gave her a tip and a koala. Trying to tell her how to pronounce koala was interesting.



As we completed our walk we still had 110,000 Dobra which were not going to be any use to us so we went into a craft shop and bought a bracelet for Gail. It was marked at 120,000 but she took 10,000 off. Big business.



The tender trip back was interesting because the tender was driven by the Third Officer not one of the deck crew as usual. It must have been a training exercise for him and he needed it. It took him three goes to bring alongside the landing platform in calm seas. The deck crew on the platform were not laughing as they wouldn't laugh at an officer but each time he missed their grins grew wider.



We were having a pre dinner drink on our balcony watching the tenders coming in (they disembarked people on the other side) when for no apparent reason they lowered tender no. 6 on our side. It went into port, turned around and came back without any passengers and came alongside to connect with the hoists to be lifted up, but it missed and then missed its second attempt. We realised it was the Staff Captain the second in command and that this must also have been a training exercise for him and he needed it too because an hour later he finally got it in to position to be hauled up. The next one came in driven by one of the deck crew and it connected first time. If we have to abandon ship I'm not looking to go in a life boat driven by an officer.



Entertainment was another production show, "What a Swell Party" based on Cole Porter music and was probably the best we have seen.



Day 62 Friday May 15

At sea, across the Bay of Biscay

31c cloudy and rain



Zumba was early because we were crossed the equator today and were supposed to be having the ceremony. Eventually it was cancelled because of the rain so we did Line Dancing instead.



Gail did Tap while I went to a lecture on Ancient Egypt. Then we had a coffee and read for w while. As it had fined up we went for a walk then did stretch class. The Bistro had a special curry night so we went up there instead of the dining room and Gail had curry, I didn't but they did have other food.



After dinner we went to the early show which was Diane Cousins the singer/comedian from Wales, for the third time. This time her luggage had been lost so that provided some new material but otherwise the show was the same as we had seen twice before, but she knows how to deliver a joke so it was still enjoyable.



Day 63 Saturday May 16

At sea, still on north westerly course through the Gulf of Guinea

30c some cloud and rain



Gail walked early and I did some washing. Gail had tap then we both went to lecture on Rameses the Great. I went up to the Captains Circle desk to check on our status and found that we will be three days short to Elite, which means you get your laundry done, for leg from New York home, but there is hope we have to provide them with some information about the Oriana in 1980.



We did a ballroom dancing class on the Waltz then I changed some library books while Gail went down and did a game show called Liars Club. Her team came first.



After that we had a cup of coffee and sat out on the deck and read. I walked and ran a little bit more then we stretched and got ready for the formal night. We went up to the Tahitian Lounge and danced to the Cinamoon Duo for about 40 minutes before dinner. After dinner it was another production show "Stardust" which we had seen before but it was still very enjoyable. We came back to our cabin and had a night cap.



I finished "Scorecasting" by Moskowsky and Wortheim which examines a whole lot of sporting myths such as home ground advantage from a statistical basis. Hard going but interesting.



Day 64 Sunday May 17

At sea sailing north north westerly

31c cloudy, humid, some rain



Spectacular thunderstorm last night.



Gail walked but later than usual so we had to have breakfast quickly then went to Zumba,did the short quiz and line dancing.



I went to a lecture on Alexander the Great while Gail had a swim and a read then I met her and we went to have lunch which we don't usually do but we had decided not to go to dinner. After lunch we went to the second ballroom dance lesson on the Waltz which we think we are getting. After that I went to a lecture on geoengineering. When I came into the lounge there was a huge argument going on with a man and a woman shouting at each other. It seems it was over a seat - is three days at sea causing cabin fever?



Gail walked a bit more had a quick swim and then a shower and started watching a stateroom movie, "Mrs Henderson Presents" starring Judi Dench then went to stretch class. I walked/ran then joined her at stretch. I had a shower and we hade a wine in our cabin then went to see the movie "Kingsman: the Secret Service" with Colin Firth. It was a bit far fetched. Then back to our cabin, had a nightcap while we watched the rest of "Mrs Henderson Presents".



Tonight they closed the Bistro to the passengers and put on a dinner and show for the waiters, deckhands and cabin stewards etc. the officers including the Captain served them. Great gesture that evidently only happens with the current Hotel General Manager who is very good. She also needs a Captain who will go along with her, which we're told doesn't always happen.



Day 65 Monday May 18

At sea. North westerly up the coast of Sierra Leone

30c cloudy heavy rain in the morning



Gail did tap with Helene then we went down to a question and answer presentation with the senior officers which was very informative about working at sea and career paths. Then I listened to a talk on classical Greece while Gail walked around the deck and had a quick swim.



After the lecture I couldn't find her so sat in one of the lounges and read. I went to the fashion show where the passengers acted as models then went up to the Ballroom Dance lesson where I met Gail. It went fairly well but I wouldn't say we are expert Waltzers yet. We had a cup of coffee and a read then did some computer work. Shani had sent us an email with a lot of news so we did some responses.



We had a pre dinner drink in our cabin and after dinner we went to the show which was the resident pianist Brad Stevens doing a presentation on Ragtime. He was really good.



I couldn't sleep so I finished " Betrayal" by John Lescroat. Gail is keeping her own list of the books she has read.



Day 66 Tuesday May 19

At sea up the coast of Gambia. Little bit of a swell.

27c some cloud, light winds



We did Zumba which was on early so breakfast was a bit rushed. It was a good workout. Then they did the Crossing the Equator ceremony, only 3 days late. Nonsense but good fun.



Today we had a pub lunch. Gail had curry and I had fish n chips with sherry trifle for sweets. Sat with an American couple who had been to Australia but had never heard of Canberra. After lunch we did the ballroom dance class which today was the "Cha Cha". Quite difficult. That was followed by line dancing. Active aren't we?



We watched a trivia on slides of different places in the world then did stretch class, went to the early show, another production by the singers and dancers, "Shake, Rattle & Roll". Really good as usual. Then dinner and early night.



Day 67 Wednesday May 20

Mindelo on the island of St Vincent one of the Cape Verde Islands

24c clear skies strong wind later in the day



We arrived in Mindelo quite early and were off the ship well before 9.00. We walked into the town alongside the harbour and were pleased to see that it was clean and well kept. The buildings were painted in blues, yellows, greens and pink. We found the hawk monument and the statue of Diogo Alfonso the Portuguese explorer most influential in the discovery and settlement of The Cape Verde Islands. Then we went up to the town hall and the catholic cathedral which was a very modest wooden structure. Then we walked through some nice streets down to the harbour side again and went into the fish market. I don't think I have ever seen so many different types of fish in the one place.



From there we walked up to the African markets which were more open and featured little stalls and large area open fruit and vegetable markets. We walked back down to the waterside and went into the fishing museum which was simple but interesting. There was a great view of the city and harbour from its upper balcony. The building was built as a replica of the Tower of Belem in Lisbon.



We then went in search of the Presidential Palace and found the fruit and vegetable market by chance on the way. It was a lovely building with a really beautiful ceiling. A feature of all three markets we had visited were the tiled murals showing clearly the Portuguese influence. As we went up the stairs to the first floor of the market we looked out the balcony and there was the President's Palace so that made it easy to find it.



We walked along some other nice streets and came into a garden that lead us to the cultural centre which was interesting. We sat down on a seat on the street beside the gardens for a while and watched the world go by then walked along the foreshore past the ship to a beach we saw as we came into port in the morning. By this time the wind was really strong and whipping the sand up so much it stung in the strongest gusts. We walked along the beach, the water which a beautiful colour was quite cool so we left and went up to a tavern which had a great view of the beach, the harbour and another if the islands which seemed to be much bigger than St Vincent. We had a beer and a rum and coke. It cost E5.70 and I paid for it with a E20 note and got the change, 14000, in the local currency so as this was not a lot of use to us we bought another drink each and some fish. A local was making shell bracelets and necklaces on the footpath outside so we bought 2 bracelets for Gail.



Back on the ship we read for while then watched the sailaway, which was late because of "technical issues" whatever that means. The show was a magician who had some good tricks but unfortunately he is the third one we've seen so many of his "illusions" we had seen 3 times before. After dinner we went upstairs to the Country Night Party. Not too many there but it was fun. We won a bottle of champagne. We bought a nightcap and were drinking it when David, an Australian who lives in the US and is travelling with his mother who lives in Yarralumla came in so we talked to him until almost midnight then had to put our watches forward so it was a late night. By this time the wind was getting up and the ship was moving a bit.



We also discovered that we didn't know how to take the bracelets off.



Day 68 Thursday May 21

At sea sailing North Westerly along Mauritania. Seas high, big swell.

24c gale force winds



Slept in. Gail did tap, then we did the quiz followed by line dancing. Then we went downstairs to a lecture on St Petersburg which was really interesting. Gail did some washing then we sat in some of the lounges had coffee and read and watched some people bowling on X-Box. The outside decks were all closed because of the high seas.



Met a guy on the stairs who bought bracelets at the same time as us and was smart enough to see how to get them off. Problem solved.



We got ready for the formal night and went down to the Captains Circle function. Same two were the most travelled but the others were new. They had a draw and we won another bottle of champagne. After dinner I went to the magician show but Gail went back to the cabin. It was supposed to be another production show but they postponed it because the ship was moving so much it was too dangerous for the dancers. Evidently that's only the second time they have had to do that in the last 100 days.



Day 68 Friday May 22

At sea sailing north easterly (036 degrees). Seas still up but not quite as rough as yesterday.

26c cloud and strong winds



Went to breakfast then Zumba which was a bit tricky with ship moving as much as it was. Did the quiz then line dancing which Helene kept to the less active ones. Went back to the cabin and did some washing.



Went to the talk on Navigation at Sea which I had heard before but was still interesting. Went to Ballroom dancing but Naomi was very nervous and only did non partner Cha Cha moves for about 10 minutes and then cancelled the class because she was nervous/worried about us injuring ourselves with the movement of the ship, so we raced down to hear the end of a talk on Russian Opera. Gail went to an abs class then we both did the stretch class.



After dinner went to the show which was the production "Cinematastic" which they had postponed from the night before. Great show and they did really well because it was only slightly less rough than last night.



I finished "The Secret Race" by Tyler Hamilton and Daniel Coyle. It's about the Tour de France. Hamilton was Lance Armstrong's number 2 but fell out with him as every one seems to do and became a major witness against him.



Day 69 Saturday May 23 Shani's birthday

Santa Cruz De Tenerife in the Canary Islands. Euro about 70cents to the A$.

22c but not where we were, cloudy



Got up early and sent Shani some texts for her birthday.



After breakfast we went down to the dock and got on the bus it was quite a pleasant morning but 9 kms later and 2000 feet higher in La Laguna the old capital it was much cooler and we discovered we had not taken enough clothes. Laguna was a lovely place, all set out on a grid with old buildings and monasteries with closed wooden balconies where the nuns can see you but you can't see them. There were only 5 nuns in the first monastery but 17 in the second because it had recruited nuns from Africa.



Laguna , founded 1496 was the capital until Santa Cruz as the port became more important and replaced it as Capital. When the Ancient Romans first discovered the Canary Islands there were a lot of wild dogs so they named them Insula Canum or Dog Island and when the little yellow finches were found they were named "Dog Island birds" or canaries.



In the 1930s Franco was the Field Marshall (Governor) of the Canary Islands and planned his revolt against the Spanish Republic in Santa Cruz.



We walked along Calle Viana to the Plaza Del Cristo where there was a the Saint Francisco church with a silver altar and Christ. The Silver had come from South America but the silversmith was local. There was also a market which was very clean and organised.



Back on the bus we headed to the Mercedes Forest which was beautiful, very green and very dense. From there we drove up the Anaga Mountains on what is one of the most spectacular roads we have ever travelled on. Narrow but well made it twisted and turned back on itself, the views were magnificent which ever way you looked and it climbed up to about 4,000 feet. The lookouts were stunning but the wind was so strong that I was as cold as I can ever remember being. The road took us right over the mountains to the coastal village of Taganana which is more famous for its vineyards and goat's cheese than its fish. We went to the Africa cafe (named after its owner rather than the continent) where we had a couple of glasses of wine from a cleanskin so we have no idea of the brand name or the variety except that it was red, goats cheese and olives ( not me). We came back along the coast then through a tunnel and into the city. We got off at the Opera House, which has similarities to Sydney's but with one huge sail.



From there we walked along the harbour into town and walked around the city centre passed the battlements which launched the cannon shell that cost Nelson his arm. As it was Saturday and in the afternoon in a Spanish territory there was not too much activity but it was a pleasant environment. As we were leaving to go back to the ship the shops were opening after siesta despite the fact that a ship was in port and due to sail at 4.30.



Back on board we got a coffee and some cheese and went on deck to watch the sailaway and got into a discussion with 7 other Australia s so the sailaway lasted well after land was out of sight.



The entertainment was an American soprano, Jennifer Fair who was very good.



Day 70 Sunday 23 May

Funchal, Madeira, Portuguese, Euro

22c cloudy a little bit of misty rain.



After breakfast we boarded a bus which took us to the chair lift that went 1200 feet and took about 15 minutes. It went right over the houses and we could see into the yard and gardens most of which were terraced because it was very steep.



At the top we went up to a little church, Our Lady of Monte, which you still had to climb steep steps to get to. The children were taking their first communion so every one was all dressed up. We had a quick look inside but felt we were intruding so left quickly. Some of our group evidently weren't worried and walked right up to the altar amongst the families to get their photos. Pretty rude.



We walked around the gardens which had a pretty good view of the city and harbour below and then went down to the corner where the toboggan rides started. These toboggans are wicker baskets mounted on runners that are greased with lard and two runners push you down the road, although they don't have to push much, their main job is slowing it down to get around the corners. The road is very steep and slippery as this has been going on for generations and is the traditional mode of transport from the settlement around the church to the town. Long walk back. We went around the corners sideways. It was great fun.



Then we went to a look out to the mountains, the main feature of which was that you could see where Christian Ronaldo grew up, learnt to play football in the streets and played his first competitive games. Not surprisingly his image is everywhere.



No trip to Madeira would be complete without a taste of Madeira wine so we went to the Blandy's wine cellar and tasted three varieties, sweet, semi sweet and dry. It was nice so we bought some. Blandy's have been making it for 200 years.



We walked around the town centre a bit and had a look at some gardens of which there were plenty. We went to an embroidery shop because Madeira is also famous for embroidery although they are having problems sustaining what is a traditional craft. We bought a few small items.



On our way back to the ship Gail had a look at what we thought was a restaurant set in an old fort by the harbour but turned out the to be the world 's smallest officially recognised principality, the Principality islet Pontinha. The guy who owns it was there and said he bought it some time ago and now the mayor of Funchal wants to buy it back. He lives there three days a week and doesn't want to sell it so they won't connect him to the electricity so he uses solar and wind.



Back on ship we started to organise our luggage as we only have three more sea days. We are stating to suffer from "end of cruise blues". Thought 82 days would last forever. Entertainment was an English juggler/comedian Steve Rawlings who I thought was hilarious but not everyone did, but he was very clever on a moving ship.



I finished Kill Scott by James Patterson.

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