Into the Okavango Delta

---

The mouse reappeared and peed on the mosquito net when Jen screamed. We prepared our bags for the trip into the bush camp in the Okavango Delta.An open sided truck appeared and we crammed ourselves and the supplies on board. Potsy was in charge (Kat staying behind in Maun). The first half an hour was along reasonable roads but there followed two hours along incredibly bumpy roads assign remote settlements of traditional village huts with reed roofs and mud walls (sometimes fabricated with a core of empty beer cans). We forded a river and passed a final village where the ‘polers’ live and shortly after stopped at the reed bed where the ‘makuros’ and the polers were waiting for us. My first alarming impression of the makuros, which are the local canoes hewn from a single truck, was how small and low in the water they were once loaded. I don’t think they were designed for fat westerners. Our poler was a tall serious man but many were women in bright local clothes. The poler placed soft reeds in the makuro as a soft cushion and then loaded our luggage and finally Jen and myself climbed gingerly aboard. As the boat leaned the water sometimes leaked in through some cracks. The sun was intense and we immediately made use of our newly bought umbrellas to act as parasols. Thus our little convoy set out along the narrow reed lined river. (River is a slight exaggeration as I could just about reach the banks on either side with outstretched arms). The polers were very adept at manoevering the boats and we soon relaxed - the only sound being the water dripping from the pole as it was extracted. After about an hour we reached our camp deep in the delta. I perhaps inadvisedly had tried the water from the river having been assured by Kat that it was potable - later I was told it was ok for the locals who were used to it but not for us - and from then on we only drank boiled water). At the camp the practicalities were sorted - the polers dug a latrine. The system is that if the spade is not beside the tree you know that someone is at the latrine. We set up our tents and at about four our guides took us for our first walk into the bush. It was very exciting but a little scary to walk into bush without the protection of a vehicle. The guides said alarmingly that if they shouted run we were to do so without hesitation. We soon saw giraffe and zebra. The guide explained the tracks and spoor. Suddenly a large elephant appeared about 200m away. The guides were slightly twitchy and got us to move so that we were downwind of what was becoming apparent were several elephants that were agitated at our presence. As soon as we were downwind the elephants were calmer and a large herd of about twenty including several calves, crossed majestically the marshy valley from one forest to another. Elated by the experience we returned to camp. Sitting around the camp fire with the locals - they teaching us games and tricks and we reciprocating - was great. One mimicking game is called ‘This is the way you bend the stick’. The guides all have nicknames such as Master, Pilot and Bullet. It was great fun - monkeys scampered in the nearby trees. If we go to the loo we have to do it in pairs so that the other can look out for any wild animals. What we were supposed to do if we saw for example a lion wasn’t explained. Armed with a spade against a pride of lions didn’t seem like good odds. We’re not allowed outside the immediate camp without a guide.
A few of us went with a guide to a local swimming hole which turned out to be a muddy four feet deep pool surrounded by reeds. As night fell the campfire was reassuring as strange noises came out of the surrounding forest. A light drizzle started to fall as the night went on.

---

Photos

Female poler
The female members of the Yei tribe act as polers along with the men.