Somethng has changed. Where are the endless piles of garbage, the potholes and the unfinished buildings. Of course, we're in Greece now. At the Albanian/Greek border, the Greek customs official asked if we had stopped at all in Albania. On seeing the perplexed look on his face when I told him a week, there didn't seem much point in attempting to explain him we actually enjoyed ourselves. First port of call, Monodendri, one of the numerous Zagorian villages, 1100 meters into the Pindos mountains. These stone buildings with their slate roofs are reason enough to visit this wonderful section of northern Greece. For us though, the star attraction was the Vikos Gorge. There is a sign in Monodendri claiming, "1997 Guiness Book of Records, world's deepest gorge." I don't know if this meant: a. the Guiness
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