Page 5 of Shmunkie and the small ginger one Travel Blog Posts



Following a short detour through the tourist hub of Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand and some impromptue cooking lessons with Kim our cheery chirpy 'Thai wife' and another Duncan who became known as 'lady number 2' (For those who haven't been to Thailand you probably don't want to know what 'lady number 2' means). We headed further North in a vain and sweaty attempt to avoid the heat. To be honest, we found little in Chiang Mai to keep us longer than a few days. A perfect example of what happens when tens of thousands of holiday makers arrive and are more interested in sunbathing and drinking than meeting Thais and exploring the city. It could almost be Tenerife picked up and dumped in South East Asia all the way down to the lobster-pink and leather-backed ... read more




I think have discovered the way I like to travel and it's one I could become accustomed to very easily. Forget rising damp, cockroaches scuttling around the floor and less natural light than Wooky Hole. Even the upmarket TV and Hot Shower brigade just don't cut it. Try complimentary exotic fruit of the day, mini snack dishes delivered every afternoon, not one but three daily newspapers and so many free toiletries we just had to post them home. Ladies and Gentlemen, ones hotel of choice in Bangkok has to be the original decandence of the East - The Mandarin Oriental. Complete with spas (yes spa-ss), gym and running track, 5 top class restuarants (including the most prestegious in Bangkok) and the most comprehensive buffet breakfast know to man. From this point on all hotels have a ... read more



One Very Happy Valley

Published: March 29th 2008Asia » Hong Kong » Hong Kong Island

Bright and shiny Hong Kong is a magical wonderland of neon and dim sum. A world of order, signs and helpful people we almost cried upon arrival. Our new home for only four days we fell completely for this mix of east and west, this mecca of buisness and technology, this British-ish bastion in the South China Sea. No-one can fail to be blown away by the shear scale of the place, both immense and tiny in equal measure. The skyscrapers surpase those of New York without ever looking back and yet you can walk across the majority of the city on raised covered walkways in less than an hour. Or why not take the ferry, underground, bus, tram or street escalators all with the convenience of your Octopus (Oyster, Lobster, Various Seafood) card. It all ... read more




Ahh, the efficiency and speed of Indian trains made our journey across the plains of India from Kolkata to Agra just fly by. In the time it takes for an Indian train to cover 1200kms on European trains you could travel Edinburgh to Warsaw and be there in time for tea, as it was when we arrived in Agra at midnight (5 hours late) we were lucky enough to be confronted with a room full of beasties (luckily none big enough to really bite). However, there were several spiders putting up a sterling effort to address the problem. Of course the real purpose of visiting Agra was not just the joy of a 24hr train trip or the diverse wildlife in our room but the World Wonder that seems to be on every tourist's wish list ... read more



Kolkata "The Glasgow of India"

Published: March 10th 2008Asia » India » West Bengal » Kolkata

Sitting in a Venician style coffee house sampling fresh brioche and muffins we couldn't be further from 'The Black Hole' if we tried. Despite its image, Kolkata or Calcutta as the locals insist we call it, is more Mumbai than Delhi and is blessed with pehaps the most stunning of the Raj architecture to be found in India. Actually a local journalist likened most of its Victorian buildings to those in the centre of Glasgow - you can kind of see his point, except for the palm trees obviously. If possible, however, this is also a city of more extremes than the rest of India. Fantastic restaurants, coffee shops and high rises that wouldn't be out of place in any European city and yet this city suffers the most abject povety we have ever witnessed. Begging ... read more



The Art of the Momo

Published: February 27th 2008Asia » Nepal » Kathmandu

It is always said that it's the simplest of ideas that last and it is true once again of the humble Momo. So simple is it's creation and it's endearing legacy that few have been able to distill its essence into the written word - so here goes nothing. Small yet mighty the Momo has outlasted dynasties, invasions and the Indian attempt to curry it to become the staple of not only the Nepalese Tibetans in exile but many a weary traveler that just can't face another curry. During our time spent in Nepal we felt that we owed it to this little piece of manna to conduct a full and extensive feast to attempt to determine why, where and simply how. Each little delectable entity can sustain a man for days and yet when presented ... read more



The Foothills of Machu Picchu

Published: February 24th 2008Asia » Nepal » Pokhara

Sheltered under the snowy peaks of the great Annapurna range, Pokhara provides a most welcome relief from the intoxicating, overwhealming enormity of Varanasi and our rapid ascent through the backbone of India. A tourist town to be sure, but what a tourist town. Relaxed atmosphere with cafes scattered along the shore of a (fairly) pristine lake. Bakeries, restaurants and more nick-nack shops than you could shake a stick at. After the mania of India, this place is heaven. Add to this the fact that 10 minutes walk and you're on a wooded hillside or in rice paddies or looking out over the lake and you have a town anybody would be happy to spend a week in. In fact we loved it so much that once again we threw the plan away and just chilled. Well ... read more




Varnasi and the Ganges it borders, is one of the oldest cities in the world and unfortunately pretty much a cesspool. The city can't cope with the number of people in it and the rickshaw drivers almost rival Delhi in their insistant hounding. With this in mind we are currently preparing to hot foot it to Nepal and the border (ish) town of Lumbini. Buddha's birthplace and home of yet more temples should prove to be a nice introduction to a country that has slower buses than India and cares just a little bit less about cricket. To pass the time (please note that this is the only entry so far to be written up to date) we have deemed it nessesary to have a run down of the top 5 myths about India ... (cue ... read more




Next stop on the temple trail was Sanchi, home to the oldest and most impressive stupa in the world, as well as India's cheapest Thali. 30p for a full meal is just what we needed after the 4 pound pizzas of Mumbai and what with chai costing 4p our money was well spent. The village itself while nothing to write home about is situated directly beneath the ancient stupa built by the Indian despot Ashoka after he killed loads of people then felt a bit guilty and converted to Buddism. In case anyone doesn't know Stupa (noun) - big semi-spherical mound made from bricks or stone and sacred to Buddists (despite the Buddha request that people not worship or build monuments to him). Imagine a small hillock or hobbit-hole. This stupa, however, is also famous for ... read more




Ah pizza, chips (real chips), coffee, pasta, meat such glorious meat, juicy tasty steak (with chips) and gravy, not curry sauce, not spicy water, gravy. Mumbai, India's powerhouse and home of more second hand books than you could shake an uncomfortably sized stick at is the furthest south in India we planned to go and we're very glad we came. After the staring and discomfort of Ahmedabad (see previous) Mubai was much appreciated. Yes we're still strangers and attract looks, points and 'hellos' relentlessly, but in Mumbai it always has a air of friendliness and genuine curiosity about the world outside India. Mumbai is what India wants to be and where India is heading. They even stop at red lights! As we shuttled all over the city trying to see the sights, shop (Duncan) and eat ... read more






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