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It is always said that it's the simplest of ideas that last and it is true once again of the humble Momo. So simple is it's creation and it's endearing legacy that few have been able to distill its essence into the written word - so here goes nothing.

Small yet mighty the Momo has outlasted dynasties, invasions and the Indian attempt to curry it to become the staple of not only the Nepalese Tibetans in exile but many a weary traveler that just can't face another curry. During our time spent in Nepal we felt that we owed it to this little piece of manna to conduct a full and extensive feast to attempt to determine why, where and simply how. Each little delectable entity can sustain a man for days and yet when presented with a plate of 10 (they only come in 10's - oh the joy) they can be consumed regardless of the state of hunger one currently feels. To describe the taste would instantly be robbing both the Momo and the reader of a gift for which there are no words, there is no expression and 'yum' just doesn't cut it. There are few events that one looks back upon as life defining, but when the Momo discovered us - for it is that way round - we realised that a deep and powerful change had occurred and nothing would ever be the same again.

In case there is anyone out there who has not yet encountered the Momo, we can only sympathise. Life can be cruel.There are also no pictures of Momos available for it is impossible to capture such beauty in a photograph, plus Nic eats really fast!


Despite the time spent dedicated to the pursuit of Momo-based activities, we did find time to venture through the alleyways and Gompas of Kathmandu drinking copious quantities of herbal tea. Although none of the temples could quite compare to the strange eeriness of the Ghorka Durbar. Based high in the mountains between Pokhara and Kathmandu this seat of kings is a living working temple complete with animal sacrifice and dried paths of blood through a haze of incense in a 16th century castle - cool.


Unfortunately, we had to leave Kathmandu and Nepal earlier than we would have liked. The political strife is continuing to worsen and life is becoming exceedingly difficult for those caught in the middle. As the lifeblood of Nepal is continually strangled out of it I would not be surprised if this is the last time for a while that Nepal is safe to visit. Truly a tragedy for a country so beautiful and full of the most amazing sights that you will ever lay your eyes upon.

To make matters worse little did we know that a series of 'bandhs' (strikes) are also crippling Darjeeling and Sikkim in North Eastern India. We are able to leave the area and head south to Kolkata, but many are stranded and the ruling parties care little for either the locals (who we hear are running out of food) or for the fact there are devastating their fledgling tourism industry. Once again we must rely on the BBC for the little news that is available, India seems to be ignoring the situation, and flee town before the main communist rallies hit here (Siliguru) in a few days time.

Incredible India is definitely earning its name at the moment

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