We left Agra by 5pm train on Friday, March 3; and arrived Jaipur at 10pm; into the cab of a pre-arranged taxi driver; two, actually, one at each end of the railway station, since we could have exited at either end and they did not want to miss us. The vehicle operators at this station are reputed to be merciless, on visitors who demur going to hotels they suggest; and have been known to triple their fares, enroute, for visitors who prove recalcitrant. We took a down day on Saturday, spending it on the rooftop of our heritage hotel, under care of the Nepalese chef and his team. The building is circa 1726, which is when the city was founded by the Maharaja, Jai Singh II. He had become confident he could move out of his
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