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Published: June 14th 2017
Geo: 43.3535, 12.5795
We started the day in Ravenna, with a hearty breakfast of bacon (not like ours!) and eggs, and croissants etc. Tom asked how they cook the boiled eggs in Italy - in Australia, his come without shells....think I'm spoiling those kids! Steven and Matt were feeling a bit off, so breakfasted lightly...then out of the hotel and off to see the sights.
We had it planned like a military operation - 5 UNESCO World Heritage sites to see, 2.5 hours to achieve it. And it was perfect!
We started at the Basicila Di S Vitale - built in the 6th century, this was the octagonal church upon which Emperor Constantine based his cathedral at Aachen. The mosaics in the apse were incredible - including the portraits of Justinian and Theodora and their court. It was amazing to look at this 1600 year old art, and think of the impact it would have had on the population, when they were living such primitive lives - and to think of all who have stood in wonder at this art before us. We then went to see the Mausoleo Di Galla Placidia - daughter, sister, wife and mother of Roman Emperors, who built
a mausoleum for herself in the 5th century. It is questionable if she was buried there (she died in Rome) but it is a beautiful small building with an unforgettable ceiling of mosaic blue and gold sky and stars.
Then, a relocation, past the shop selling mosaic tiles and with an artist working on stunning mosiacs, and past the Duomo, with its nativity scenes from around the world, to the Battistero degli Ortodossi (or Neoniaono). It was built in the 4th and 5th century, though probably on a spring fed temple of the pagans. Again, amazing mosaics, with a lovely depiction of the baptism of Christ in the Jordan. The Baptistery was right next door to the Duomo, and the kids were very keen to go in to see the Nativity scenes, but we pushed on, not sure how our timing was going.
We quickly went to the Cappella di San Andrea - adjoining the Duomo and inside a little museum.Again, it would have been a nice little museum to wander slowly through, but we quickly saw some highlights including an ivory throne chair (a Cathedra, or Bishop's seat) from the 6th century - it is considered one of the
finest pieces of ivory carving in Western art. Then to the lovely Capella. It has a wonderful ceiling of golds and blues and between the lovely roses and irises, there are over 99 speicies of birds depicted, some of which are still found around Ravenna. It is mind boggling and humbling to think of this work of art and beauty being created 1400 years ago, and to think of all who have stood and admired it before us.
We then made time to revisit the adjoining Duomo, to see the Nativities - you knew we'd soften, didn't you! - and it was quite a highlight, especially after a morning of mosaics. Some of the Nativities were so naif, others so sophisticated - just lovely. We particularly liked one where Joseph was holding the baby Jesus...and realised we'd never seen that before!
Onto our 5th and final UNESCO monument for the morning - there are another 2 UNESCO monuments in Ravenna, and a new mosaics museum that we should try to return to see. The Basilica San Appollinare Nuovo was originally built as a Palatinate church (ie. private chapel for an emperor) by Theodoric in the 6th century, and had a very
similar look to the austere Palatine church that we had seen in Trier (apparently the best example in the world of a Palatine church is the one that we had seen in Aachen). The Basilica has one of the longest intact mosaics in the world. with a procession of the saints and the three wise men.
It is probably wrong to admit it, but we were a little tired by our whirlwind tour of the mosaics of Ravenna, and were ready to be finished by the time we (like a well oiled military operation) were in the car at the planned time of midday and on our way to Frassasi. It was a pretty drive down the east coast of Italy, slowly passing into the more hilly region of La Marche.
We arrived in plenty of time at Frassasi, where we were booked on the 3.30pm cave tour. We got our tickets, but then had time to kill...if we had read our tickets, we would have seen that we had complimentary entry to the little archaeological museum that we were tempted to enter. Instead, the kids begged to be allowed listen to one more chapter of the Harry Potter audio books (which
have had them spellbound and silent on all our drives across Europe).
Then...into the caves! We went by bus with our guide up into the hills, and then, with our audioguides (in English) and our guide (in Italian), into a long dark tunnel into the mountains. When the lights came on, and we could see the cave that we were in, we were gobsmacked - this cave is much larger than the Duomo in Milan, we were told. They were not discovered until the 1970s, and there is much of the system still to be explored. We meandered along walkways, completely in awe at how large the formations of stalagmites and stalagtites are - you don't appreciate their size until you realise that they are 10, 12, 20 times taller than the people standing beside them.
Not too many photos, as they were limited underground, to protect the formations....
Then, off to Gubbio - it was dark as we approached on the highway, and we were thrilled to see the world's largest Christmas tree on the hills behind the town. We hadn't booked any accommodation, and yet again were lucky tourists. The car park we found was near the Tourist Info office,
which was late closing, and where they helped us ring hotels. The hotel (that I'd seen online but thought would be too pricey) had last minute rates, was right on the piazza in the oldest part of town, and was the set for a Italian TV series because it was so picturesque!
There was a bit of an adventure getting to the hotel, in a town where some streets are too narrow for cars, but are not pedestrianised, some are wide, but pedestrianised, and others (which are not pedestrianised) have stairs. But Steven has learnt from experience, and we didn't get the car stuck between stone walls this time!
I love a family hotel - the Relais Ducale was right on the main square, with views over the city - but we entered on a cold, wet night through the bar, which was full of locals and where the owner was sorting out her little girls homework whilst trying to take the dummy out of hte mouth of the toddler! Perfect! Her husband, an American, took Steven to park the car, and we went to our rooms (where the film stars stayed for the Don Matteo TV series!)
Then, off to dinner
- again, our host had recommended a nearby restuarant, and told us to ask for the discount. We were thrown when we arrived at a very posh restaurant, but when we asked for the menu that our host had mentioned, the price went down by 70%! A wonderful meal - could barely move at the end of the 4 courses!
And whilst I thought that the view over the gardens to the bell tower was romantic, Steven spent most of the night working out the code to the bell-ringing, which continued every 15 minutes until dawn....
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The Griffins
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So not only did you eat Rudolph..now Clint is wearing the skin!!!!