Egypt 1

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Egyptian Adventure 1

We set off from Casas Nuevas on a very crisp January morning. We had a bit of breakfast in the station and got the 9.36 to Madrid. Our hostal ( the Spanish word for a simple hotel) was about 10 minutes walk away from the station and our room was clean and comfortable, if a little cosy, but it was opposite the iconic Reina Sofia museum and it only cost €50 a night . We had a little wander round to get our bearings, admired the vertical garden on the Caixa forum. There was a good little cafe just round the corner so we had a couple of drinks and then enjoyed a Thai meal. Much as we love Spanish food it was real delight to enjoy something a little spicier.

We had breakfast in another local cafe with My Grumpy, the waiter, not managing to dull my sense of excitement at finally getting to see Egypt. We were reminded of the heightened security as armed police around the station questioned two men who were waiting for the bus, there was a trip to the police station rather than the airport for them.

Our flight was fine although I was unimpressed with Egyptair, there was little checking of seatbelts and on our descent loads of people were using phones etc. Chris had ordered vegetarian food and it was pretty awful. A 20.50 arrival meant getting our visa stamp was pretty painless however baggage reclaim was tiresome.

Our transport to Giza was at the terminal and we piled into a pretty old and creaky Toyota minivan. Chris had to ask him to slow down at one point and I just tried not to look as we sped off. Our room was in Pyramid loft Home-stay and we were taken up to the roof to get a glimpse of the Pyramids. We were really disappointed with our accommodation, we usually book into hostels or simple hotels and all we need is a comfy bed and an en-suite clean shower and toilet. The description of our place was a bit ambiguous and we had a room with a shared bathroom. Thomas the owner was apologetic and we agreed to only stay one night.

Thursday we had a traditional Egyptian breakfast on the terrace overlooking the Pyramids and what a way to start the day. They are truly magnificent and to be staying so close was brilliant, you never got tired of looking at them as the colours changed throughout the day.

Thomas had an alternative for us next door where his friend had a “studio”. Aside from the dust, Egypt is covered in it, the studio had a lounge area with 2 sofas and chairs then a slightly raised platform with a chaise longue and cushions for the floor. The colours were shades of purple and pink and the wallpaper aubergine with gold flowers. The bedroom had huge silver ornate furniture and a massive and very comfy bed. It was in the right place , at the right price and it would do.

We then had a wander round the local streets, getting our first experience of Egyptian street hassle. They are pretty persistent and have an endless stream of things to sell from camel rides to postcards. It is pretty clear that the tourist industry is on its knees, the car park for the pyramids was never more than 1/3 full.

A ticket for the Pyramid sound and light show is E700 (£35) but thought we would watch it for free from the Pyramid loft, except it was locked up. So a terrace directly opposite the entrance with a few beers, which cost us E75 and when the temperatures dropped the staff brought us a blanket was a much better option. Just before the show they were testing the lights and I had just lined up a shot of the Sphinx in red when the lights went out in Giza, an anxious 15 minute wait and then power was restored. The show was interesting, if a little overworked, the commentary voice was very “British” but the lights were stunning. We later went back to see Thomas to sort out a Pyramid trip for the next day, drugs are cheap in Egypt and he was high on something.

We arrived for our guide for the pyramids and she was about to leave with a young Kiwi couple, she looked surprised when we said we were going too! The tour was okay, we took some cheesy touristy pictures but overall we probably could have done it on our own. We opted not to go inside a pyramid, Chris had been before and said they were incredibly hot, empty and in some places very small and I am not good in small spaces.

Lunch and dinner were in two parts of the same place, lunch in the takeaway bit and dinner in the restaurant. The food was okay but the service was dreadful and a pattern was beginning to emerge of disinterest, lack of attention to detail, constantly asking for utensils, and a long wait for food.

Saturday we set off for the station to get the train to Luxor. Chris had done all of the research for this trip and we avoided the overnight, very expensive sleeper which is designed for the tourists and opted to get the express. I should have more faith in him as we just got on the train in the 1^st class section and paid E100 each plus E2 fine for not having a ticket. We travelled through the Nile valley and the landscape was fascinating from beautiful well kept small villages to towns with huge mountains of rubbish and appalling housing. We were the only non-Egyptians and were therefore a bit of a novelty. The at-seat trolley service was excellent and we had a very tasty 3 course lunch for E55. We met a lovely lady who had just been to see her sister’s new baby; we had to decline her offer of tea at her house as we were late for our hotel.

The train station at Luxor was a foretaste of our time here, we were badgered by a number of people touting hotels and taxis and one was particularly persistent. We walked out of the station and approached a driver in the queue but the first guy wanted some commission from him for escorting us! The hotel was clean (by Egyptian standards) and comfortable, good quality sheets and towels, balcony with a Nile view and a great shower. We got rid of the train dirt and went to stretch our legs and had to put up with the worst pestering for ages, on a par with Marrakesh! So we headed back to the hotel and had a few beers and sandwiches and then hit the sack.

Breakfast is an Egyptian buffet with pastries, bread etc plus faal (mashed fava beans), potatoes, beans, boiled eggs, liver or chicken and the eggs cooked to order. The service at the table is haphazard you have to ask for butter, teaspoons, milk for the tea etc.

Sunday we spent the morning wandering, avoiding the touts, and sorting out our itinerary. There was a motorbike rally at the posh Winter Palace and we chatted with a guy who ran a dive school in Hurgadha and Chris was very envious of the bikes. We went into the posh hotel and after waiting 10 minutes gave up any idea that we might get a cup of coffee!

In the evening we went to the Luxor museum with a wonderful collection of artefacts, well presented and all labelled in English. There is a ferry from the east to west bank so we paid E2 each return and again were the only tourists. We had a meal on a rooftop and just had dips and bread.

Tuesday was the Valley of the Kings and we had booked a trip with a guide and driver. On the positive side we didn’t have to think about tickets etc and where to go and he was very knowledgeable but we did get stung at a “museum” buying an alabaster bowl. The tombs were fascinating so much workmanship and detail but so much of it is degraded, there were still stupid people touching stuff. We visited a restored temple on the way back but it was pretty uninspiring, maybe more time in the valley might have been better. Photos aren’t allowed so you will have to Google if you want to see what we saw.

Just when I was starting to despair of ever meeting an ordinary Egyptian who isn’t on the take we went into a small restaurant called the Oasis Palace and Ayman made us some amazing dips and then gave me the recipe for his baba ganoush; which was to die for. The place was spotlessly clean, lots of old artefacts from Europe and a lovely feeling and aptly named an Oasis.

So that is the end of week one next stop Karnack and Luxor temples and then Asswan.

Norma x

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Comments

[Uwe & Marlene , Mexico]

Nice to hear
That was fun for us to follow you, we did the trip in our VW-Bus 30 years ago, looks like not a lot changed. Have fun, say hi to Chris !!!