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Published: October 6th 2016
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Olmstead Lock
Under construction since 1995 and not set to open for another 2 years. Understandable when you experience the magnitude of it's size.
On Saturday, it was officially one month since we departed Port Dover on our year long voyage. In some ways it seems like we have been gone so much longer, amazing how quickly time passes and how natural this way of life has already become for us.
While there are long periods of cruising the water, stretches of days where we don’t even step onto firm ground, it seems incredible how many new and interesting experiences we are blessed with every day. A full day trip down a seemingly isolated river brings the challenge of “dodge barge”; imagine a tow boat pushing 7 rows of 5 barges, each 200 feet long and 35 feet wide…that’s 1400 feet by 175 feet of solid steel pushing towards you! But along the way, there are also herons, pelicans, limpkins (similar in look to an ibis – and no I am not a bird expert, had to look that one up!), cormorants, eagles, turkey vultures, egrets (ok, admit it, I looked that one up to…) as well as numerous smaller birds.
The Ohio and Cumberland rivers are beautifully scenic, twisting and turning with new vistas around each turn. The banks of the rivers
alternate between overhanging trees with roots exposed to stone ridges that look like each rock has been placed with precision. The soils turn from dark gray clay to bright red sands.
While the trees are still mostly green, you can see glimpses of autumn staining the intermittent leaf; in another week I am sure the landscape will be ablaze with reds, oranges and yellows. It is will be lovely to see, but it also helps push us south. I am determined not to witness a single snowflake for at least a year! Lukus, on the other hand, still thinks a few snowflakes would make a for an ultimate fall boating experience; he’s a little crazy that way but apparently there is nothing like boating in the snow, until you experience it you really don’t know. I, personally, do not think I need to know!
We left our sandy, idyllic anchorage on the Mississippi last Thursday, and spent the last day of the speediest portion of our voyage traveling to the mouth of the Ohio river. Pretty sure we won’t see 12 knots again for quite a while! After anchoring for the night, we began our trip up the
Tow boats lined up and waiting
Not an uncommon scene on the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers
Ohio.
This is one of the shortest legs of the journey, only 50 some odd miles to the Cumberland River, but one of the most challenging for locks. We were pretty fortunate though, we travelled straight through the first lock (Olmstead), which is still under construction, and past the old lock it is replacing, The second lock took a little longer, we waited on the hook (that is on the anchor in “boat talk”) for 3 hours. However, we have since talked to other boaters who had to wait much longer, our poor friends Nancy and James with the two young boys ended up waiting 18 hours!! Must admit, I admire that woman!!
After anchoring on the Ohio where it meets the Tennessee River for the night, we were soon joining the Cumberland River headed to Barkley Lake. I had read on a few blogs before this journey that this is one of the most scenic stretches of the intercoastal route and I must agree.
By mid Friday, we had reached Barkley Lake and a popular resort area called Green Turtle Bay in Kentucky. We anchored in a beautiful little cove that afternoon and…did…nothing. Literally. Except soak
Paddlewheel Boat Deconstruction
This old Paddlewheel boat was being taken apart on the Ohio River. in the ambience and rest (I guess that is technically not nothing, but hey I am not very ‘technical’).
On Saturday morning, we decided to break down and splurge for a night at the marina. It is ginormous (wow, did not know that was actually a word, but my dictionary spell-checked it for me)! The marina is part of a resort complete with 2 outdoor pools, an indoor pool and spa, condo rentals, yacht club and…you guessed it…showers!! Glorious, wonderful showers. I never realized before just how much I took plentiful running water for granted. One thing this trip has already taught us is a greater awareness of water and energy conservation and how much waste we really generate (there is no garbage pick up days on a boat)!
After our showers, we booked the marina’s courtesy van and headed into the closest city to get provisions. We had planned to just go into the local town’s grocery store, but found out that the resort is in a “dry county”. I didn’t even know for sure if I understood that, then I wasn’t sure I believed it (I always just thought it was a band name…right
Jes?). But apparently, there are still counties in the US where no alcohol is sold! Lukus later informed me, that even in Canada, there are “dry” places, like Long Point, where he grew up. Lukus and “dry”…seems like a ironic contradiction.
Having splurged for a night at the marina, we have now been back out on anchor since Sunday, enjoying some relaxation, and touring while also waiting for some of our new friends to catch up to us. On Monday, we rented a golf cart and toured the nearby town, Grand Rivers. The small, resort town is quaint with some cute little shops and restaurants, including an iconic place called Patti’s 1880’s Settlement.
Later that day, our friends Nancy and James with their boys Marcos and Lucas arrived on their boat along with Andrew and Jack. We all met up with Ruth and Ross (some fellow loopers) and enjoyed a scrumptious pizza party on their boat, Onzereis. Have missed pizza…haven’t found any place yet that will deliver it to us out at anchor!
The past couple days have been spent visiting, playing with the kids (ok, that’s mostly me, while Lukus has been lending out tools and
helping the “men” to do some minor fixed to their boats), feeding turtles, showering (like, every day!!) and enjoying the scenery.
Tomorrow we plan to start out for Nashville, hopefully arriving in time for Lukus’ birthday on Saturday. I am looking forward to enjoying some live music and dancing (the limited dance space on the boat doesn’t allow me to pull out all my moves!).
Stay tuned…I am sure there will be some stories to tell from Nashville J
Hope all our friends and family are well and keeping warm (I heard a nasty rumor about people pulling our sweaters, socks and boots!! I am sorry!! Lol). Sending love to you all.
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Doug Janes
non-member comment
Great blog
Hi guys, We met in Peoria Illinois looking for a ride on your boat. We talked and found out about your year long treck. Great job on blogging the trip . Can't wait to read more later. What an experience you are going through. Stay safe and enjoy. Doug Janes