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Published: September 11th 2016
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Presque Isle
View of the Bay Well, it has been over a week now that we have been on our journey, and we have travelled 600 nautical miles. I know in essence, it does not seem very far; you could probably travel that in a vehicle in a day or two, but on the water at our speed, it is quite a distance. And as we often tell people, it is more about the journey than it is the destination.
After leaving Harrisville, MI on Wednesday, we dropped anchor that evening in the beautiful little bay of Presque Isle. Our vista was complete with summer cottages (actually, to Lukus and I, they looked more like mansions in comparison to our recent accommodations), a marina with a shop and restaurant, and two lighthouses. The newer of the two is apparently the tallest lighthouse on the Great Lakes (got a photo for you John Veber) and the second is “haunted” by George the friendly ghost. Supposedly, this lighthouse has even been featured on a tv show; guess that is quite the claim to fame for this small island.
On Thursday, we continued north/northwest towards the Straights of Mackinaw, traveling between the mainland and
Mackinac Island. At the suggestion
Presque Isle Lighthouse
Touted as the tallest lighthouse on the Great Lakes of our friend, Mark, we planned to stop at this popular island that still uses horse and buggy for transportation and has been preserved to reflect early 19
th century life. However, strong winds and choppy waters, as well as reports that anchoring at the island is extremely difficult due to solid rock lake bottoms, subtly persuaded us to keep westward and dock at the mainland town of St. Ignace for the night.
Our evening in St. Ignace was great fun. The town has a boardwalk that extends along the shoreline with quaint shops and restaurants. We decided since we were on land, to have someone else cook for us, so we stopped at the
Mackinac Grill for great supper brought to us by our friendly waiter Shaggy (they have an awesome Bloody Mary bar!!). The staff there are wonderful, one of them was especially entertaining, serving plates and even full cocktails balanced precariously on his head. I wanted to join in the fun, so I began practicing immediately – I am pretty good with a napkin and moved up to a spoon. Haven’t progressed much farther though.. ha-ha.
Despite a full and contented belly, Lukus had his eye on
Presque Isle Haunted Lighthouse
Apparently this lighthouse is haunted by the former keeper "George". While there is absolutely no electricity going to the lighthouse, even the coast guard has seen the light go on mysteriously. the weather, and at 2am got up check how it was holding. After a couple hours of listening to reports for the next few days, he finally decided at 4am to untie and head out. That day promised to hold good weather, but after that the forecast threatened winds and storms, so he wanted to cover some ground and get us to a safe hideout. Friday, we travelled 16 hours, bringing us to Washington Island, Wisconsin around dusk.
That night we anchored in a little bay between Washington island and Detroit Island. The water was still as glass, belying what would greet us in the morning. The am began gray and rainy, but fairly calm. Suddenly, within the span of minutes, winds were whipping around us, dragging us along the bottom of the bay, despite our 100 lb anchor. I know storms can move quickly on land, but it is surprising how the effects of a fast moving storm are so much more visible and possibly damaging when on water. White caps were appearing out of nowhere and the wind was whipping streams of rain and spray “sidewards” (yes, that IS a word). We quickly pulled anchor and headed
Mackinac Grille
The best "make it your way" Bloody Mary bar I have ever seen (well, ok, I have never seen one before, but they have 10 different pickles alone to dunk into your drink!!) for a small marina on the south end of Washington island to take cover. We tied up securely, just in time for the spontaneous storm to die back down…of course. In the end, we spent the rest of the Saturday and last night there for some R&R after the past few days of long travels.
The weather has calmed down today, but with threats of more squalls and wind gusts tonight, we were up at 6am to begin heading Milwaukee way but keeping tight to the shoreline. Depending on when weather “goes south” (have to insert my odd cheesy pun!), we will head to shore to take cover whenever needed. Hopefully we can get a good 10-12 hour run in before that happens.
I know some of you are probably wondering what we do to pass the time on these long passage days. As I am finally gaining equilibrium on the boat, I have been able to help out more with the wheeling, trying to take 2-4 hour shifts so Lukus can get a break. Most days, he still does 2/3 of the steering and most of the navigating and chart plotting.
During his breaks, Lukus often
Pilot Island WI
Old lighthouse on it's barren island sits on the bow, watching the waves and reflecting, as well as walking about the boat to make sure everything is in working order. Sometimes, he will cook, take a nap, and believe it or not - for those who knew Lukus when he was young - he has been reading. As long as I have known him, he has been a reader, but it is usually technical stuff to learn about something. This time he is reading a book. For fun. He has chosen a book about missing shipwrecks on the great lakes. Not sure if this is the most appropriate reading for this trip…but he is enjoying it.
Myself, I have, of course, been writing blogs and usually work for a few hours. I cook, clean, read and try to get some exercise (I know I said I was going to try yoga, but then I remembered, I am too hyper for yoga. So I have been dancing.) And, believe it or not - for those who know me - I have been taking naps. Like actually closing my eyes and sleeping during the day!
Between all that, we enjoy the scenery,
chit chat, make plans, tell jokes, and laugh. (Ok, mostly, I do the laughing; Lukus can be a real comedian – seriously!) When on land, we always end up meeting wonderful people and having some great conversations; everyone seems to always be so relaxed and friendly when on or near the water.
Overall, our days seem to pass quickly and we are just trying to savour each moment and appreciate where our journey has brought us so far.
P.S. A taste of humour: yesterday morning I asked Lukus if he was craving bacon. His response? Bacon is a lie about water…
Huh?? Wha???
Yah, it’s when someone tells you that a swamp is actually a bay, and you believe them. It’s called a “bay con”.
I laughed….
P.P.S. Tracy, we want to let you know how sorry we are and that you are in our thoughts and prayers as you go through this difficult time.
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Julie Kate Seirlis
non-member comment
Emy This is just wonderful. Safe peregrinations Lots and lots and lots of love jk and trio xxxx