Jizeu

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We're nearly there!

We left Khorog early and planned on a quick stop off in the Jizeu valley before making more progress towards the final destination, Qurgonteppa. The roads were good so we got to the Jizeu bridge at midday. It's just "the bridge" because the actual village is a 2 hour hike up the valley. We walked along the crystal clear water until we got to the most surreal village I've ever seen. It was like walking into the Shire from Lord of the Rings. Everything was so lush and green with bright blue ponds/lakes dotted about and white peaks on the horizon. With 14 houses making up the whole village, I can understand the confused looks we were getting as we walked through. We were offered tea in a few of the houses but had to decline as we were in a bit of a rush to try to get back to Tom who was waiting at the bottom, slightly ill (he's better now though). In hindsight it was a shame we couldn't spend longer there as there is a lake further up that sounds idealic. Joss and I had a quick dip in one of the lakes further down and both agreed it was the coldest water we'd ever encountered. We were both out within seconds as our bodies began to shut down! Just what was required to refresh after a long hike though.

We got back from the hike and made as much progress as we could and just as we were thinking of stopping to camp we found a "hotel" for £1 a night that we thought we go for to save pitching the tent. This hotel comprised of a dining room downstairs and a floor upstairs to camp on. Actually it was just what we wanted, cheap and easy. We then cooked our own meal in an empty dining room downstairs and just as we were about to tuck in, a crowd of people burst in singing and dancing. To our horror (and then amusement) we were whisked off our feet to join in the dance. A very odd traditional dance with lots of yelling/shouting involved. Almost as quickly as it had started it was over and they left. It turns out a child had been born in the village and this is the traditional celebration for that, going from house to house.

We woke early the next morning (quite reluctantly) and set off on the drive hoping to make the school by the end of the day. In hindsight this was perhaps a tad optimistic having seen the roads around the rest of Tajikistan, it was a beautiful drive and the Afgan side of the river continued to amaze us. It's sad to have said goodbye to Afganistani views today as it's been a pleasure to gaze upon it's beauty these last few days. I'm now writing this in a hotel most of the way to the school. We made it most of the way but it was getting dark and was going to be too late to get to the school today so we decided to get a hotel in Kulob. It's nice and cheap, even if the rooms do leak a little and shake as if the building is still under construction.

We'll make the school for sure tomorrow and we're all excited to get there. It will be a sad day saying goodbye to the car, but I'm sure it will be going to a good home. Hopefully I'll be able to update you with more information on the school and their efforts to help the community and possibly a greater insight into what the future holds for the Subaru.

Love to all!

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Comments

[Liza]

was the hike very steep?
Hello, My boyfriend and I are in Khorog now and I am very tempted to go to the Jizeu Valley. Peter is very fit but I had knee surgery and steep downhill hikes are difficult for me, can you give me some information about how difficult and steep the hike is. Thanks so much, I don't want to miss it if I can handle the hike, just wish I didn't have this injury to deal with.

[MikeK1991]

Do it!
Hi, sorry if this is a bit late. I'd definitely go for it, I don't think it's very steep at all, just quite long. I wish we could have gone further as there is another lake further that we couldn't reach. Maybe stopping in the village for a night half way would have been perfect. I don't think a fit person would struggle at all. Have fun!