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Published: September 10th 2006
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It seems ages ago that I was in Ghana, having been to Dubai for stint and now India, but in reality it was just a few days ago. So Ghana. In the guidebook it is described as the gold coast and boasts citizens known for their "friendliness and hospitality." I imagine that might be true in some parts of the country. Maybe the parts where tourists don't go. Our experience of Ghana, compared to the other countries we had come from, was that it was absolutely the most racist, hostile, dishonest, overpriced, tourist leeching and often downright rude place we had been. Within four hours of being in the country we experienced more instances of hositlity and racism than we had in the previous two months...without even meeting us at all, we would just be walking by, or quietly sitting minding our own business and people shouting "Fuck you, this is not fucking white man's land, this if Africa, fuck you, fuck you..." and then maybe an hour later from someone else "Fuck you, fuck America..." really angry, and the guy wanted to get in a physical fight with Alex.... and then a bit later there was the woman who was
bitterly demanding money as a reparation for what my people did to her ancestors... And I understand where she is coming from, but really...can't we just be nice to each other? So I think that introduction left kind a bad impression on us, and though we did meet some very nice people, I was never quite as ease there, and definitely a lot less trusting of the whole place. Honestly, I feel a lot more at ease, and am a lot more trusting in Islamic countries. Ghana is really Christian appearing...the countless store names and signs were amusing with their constant referral to the Bible or Christian slogans. "He Has Made All Things Beautiful Fashion" or "Jesus is King Fried Chicken" Speaking of the food...it was so absolutely horrible. I prefer the rice with gravel in it in Guinea to the chewing gum square bread that abounded in Ghana. There was no care, no time, no respect put into the food. I think I prefer places the French colonized for that reason. Maybe it wouldn't have been such a shock if we hadn't just had such amazing food in Ivory Coast.
We travelled along the coast from Ivory Coast.
We stayed unfortunately most of our time in Accra. Alex had a bunch of visas to get sorted out, and I needed more pages in my passport. We spent two mornings at the US Embassy, then Alex an afternoon at the embassy of Niger, then Togo...and then two days going back and forth to the Nigerian Embassy. We had to base most of this from the Osu district, near all the embassies, which is a huge tourist trap and really overpriced. We went back and forth to embassies, the internet cafe that did have really nice smoothies, and then tried a series of really really bad expensive restaurants. Usually it is pretty difficult to ruin pasta, but just overcook the noodles put a goopey cornstarch and salt sauce on it and there you have it... Luckily the last day we found some decent Lebanese food. The street food was almost nonexistent, and then if there was any, it was extremely limited selection and it was cold and really tasted third world (tomato paste and Maggi seasoning squares).
We did get out of Accra for a few days, down to Kokobite(y) which is a little beach town pretty close to the city. It was a pretty nice beach, and we stayed at the AAML, the African drumming and dance institute for couple nights. We did have a chance to hear them play a bit, but the head teacher guy wasn't there. When we checked in there was a bit of confusion because they had recently painted over all room numbers. They got a big pile of keys and wandered around trying them in different doors until they found ones that opened. They have done a really nice job with the grounds there, but have closed the restaurant, and I think are struggling a bit as far the Institute part of it goes. We also saw a big funeral procession, everyone dressed in red, with a lots of drumming and whistles and car honking. On Sunday night we moved down to Big Milly's Backyard because a good portion of the tourists had left by the end of the weekend. On Friday and Saturday we had checked it out a bit, but it was super loud and crowded...more white people than I have seen anywhere in Africa were all congregated at the restaurant and bar of that little place. They have doubled the prices since they were included in the Lonely Planet...but still no running water or flushing toilets. And I had been in and out of the reception office for a few things...they had this elaborate system with names and charts that they kept track of the guests food and drink and room charges. In no less than four different situations while I was in and out I saw the hotel management trying to tack on extra beers to peoples bills. There were these four missionary kids that seemed pretty offended by the implication that they had been drinking beer. So we ate at the restaurant, which was good for breakfast and lunch, dinner was kind of bad, but we always paid cash as we went and examined the bill carefully. The banana pancakes were nice. The real treat was the Italian restaurant behind Big Milly's where the owner and his wife make amazing pizzas and bake their own bread. It was the best food we had in Ghana...and he has just built two room that will be open for rent, for a comparative good value, in a few weeks.
On the last day in Ghana, Alex managed to get a visa for Nigeria, an absolute miracle in itself...all due to his cunning, and perhaps not entirely by the book, maneuvers. Maybe he will write about it. Nigeria is much too crazy and dangerous for my liking, but I think he will love it. We said our sad goodbyes, as we have so many times before, and I boarded my flight to India via Dubai; he on his way to the more difficult parts of Africa...three week river ride through the deep Congo anyone? We pray for your health and safety Alex 😊
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Daniel
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Ghana
I have been reading blogs on this site all th etime and has never come across such a sad reference to Ghana. where on earth did you tread? Maybe better luck next time. Ghanaians are generally very very friendly and do not abuse strangers!