Goodbye Sorrento

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Naples to Sorrento

After hearing so many travellers’ tales about the Regional Train from Naples to Sorrento, I was nervous right from the start. Even the station attendant shouted to us as we went through the ticket barrier, “Watch out for pick pockets!” The regional train is beneath the Napali Centrale link from Rome and the escalator wasn’t working. On the station a young girl came up to me asking for money. Her average looking family, were standing nearby and didn’t call her back. Alarm bells were ringing.

The train pulled out of the station packed to the rafters. We had to get on with our entire luggage and we were separated right from the start. “Watch out for pick pockets, watch out for Gypsies” I was told. There was even a pictogram on the train warning us to be aware of picket pocketers. This was peak hour, so what could we do?

John stood the whole way for over one hour guarding the bags, while I leant against a wall so no one could get into my backpack unnoticed. I finally got a seat, but held on tight to my backpack and my handbag.

Slowly I relaxed as we went past Vesuvius, Pompeii and Sorrento came in to view. We got off unscathed and with all our valuables intact, then to find Villa Alviani Anna. The accommodation turned out to be a real delight and we would have a fabulous time here.

Day 1 The Amalfi Coast

To get to the Amalfi Coast we caught the local bus at the railway station. The ticket covered as many trips as you had time to fit into your day. It seemed to be good value, except we arrived late and had no idea what time the bus left, so when we got on the bus we were the last two on and the seats were on the left hand side with no view and we were separated.

When we arrived at Positano a lot of people got off and I was able to move to the right hand side and at least had a view from there to Amalfi. I sat next to Judy, a Canadian who was travelling with her husband, sister and her partner. They were great fun and we ended up going to Ravello with them and having lunch there.

We loved the old square at Ravallo, surrounded by views of the terraced hillsides of olive and lemon trees. It was truly a delightful place and it is always interesting to meet new people and share travellers’ stories.

The only disappointment with this trip is that we had sat on the wrong side of the bus for so long we didn’t enjoy the full sweep of the glorious views. As we had seen Positano, we decided to go back again to spend time there. We decided to go by the Tourist Bus, which was more expensive, but you were at least assured of a seat with good views and an English commentary.

Day 2 Pompeii

To get to Pompeii, it is a simple matter of catching the regional train from Sorrento and fourteen stops later, there you are, just get off and walk in! We met a lovely American couple from Maryland, near Washington DC and we decided to hang out together.

Unfortunately, it started to rain, but luckily John had packed light ponchos and we walked around in them and didn’t miss a beat. We joined a guided tour take us around, but the guide seemed so obsessed with showing us the bordello he didn’t give a very good overview of the rest of the important sites. John went back outside after the tour finished and we hired two audio guides, which we should have done in the first place. The information on the guides were most informative and allowed us to linger at those sites which fascinated us, such as the two bakeries and public baths. We explored the ruins as thoroughly as we could, listening and taking it in and stayed there until 6 pm.

Day 3 Capri

The friends we made yesterday, Joel and Joanne, suggested we tour Capri together, so we met them at the Port at 9.30 am. We bought return tickets on the hydrofoil and were told the last boat back was 3.35pm and we mustn’t miss. Off we went on our adventure, and what an adventure it turned out to be.

First we bought tickets for a guided boat trip around the island. The Blue Grotto was closed due to tides, but that didn’t matter because we saw plenty of grottoes, green and blue. We saw rocky outcrops and the boat sailed through a romantic rock arch. We saw the beauty of Capri from the sea, the soaring cliffs, the luxurious houses of the rich, famous and infamous perched on the cliff edges and saw the place where Tiberius would throw those that displeased him over the cliff. Solders would wait below to finish them off of they managed to survive the fall. We heard about this brutally in the midst of such beauty.

After the boat ride, we had some confusion as to which bus to catch to get to Anacapri. We bought bus tickets, but finally opted for a taxi because the queues were so long. The taxi hurtled up the narrow road, suspended to the edge of the hillside. What a ride and what a view, we loved it.

At the top we stopped at a lovely café for lunch (pizza, antipasta, rose wine and coffee), then headed for the chair lift that took us up to Anacapri. It became more windy and colder as we headed up on the chairlift and as we entered low cloud cover. This only added to the atmosphere. The views from the top looking over Capri were awe inspiring.

Photos were a must and we probably spent too much time here. After we came down, we realized that the local bus wouldn’t get us back to the boat in time. Even though we’d bought bus tickets, Joel found a taxi for us and we were on our way. This taxi was faster than the first (possibly gravity helped) and we hurtled back down at breakneck speed, narrowly avoiding cars, motor bikes, buses and trucks. It was a great driving experience - great fun, much better than a roller coaster ride.

We got back to the boat with 10 minutess to spare. I think to be a driver in Capri is to literally live on the edge.



Day 4 Positano

This time we planned our trip more carefully. I fought my way on to the tourist bus getting on first, paid our money and sat at the front on the right hand side, perfect. Although the tourist bus was the more expensive than the local Sita bus, it was worth every extra euro.

I had clear views through both the front and side windows and even though it was bumpy, the videoing wasn’t too bad. We drove through Sorrento, then down to the coast. The road to Positano and Amalfi is cut out of the side of the cliff. In places, the road is suspended out beyond the cliff and in other places it tunnels through the cliff itself.

This must be one of the most beautiful coastal drives in the world and after many hairpin bends and switchbacks we eventually arrived at Positano. Oh my, what a view, picture postcard perfect, the houses set into the cliffs, the geraniums and bouganvilleas cascading over the balconies and everything set against the blue sea. To get down to the sea, there are steps and a road, which gradually take you past hotels, boutique shops, lane ways, cafes down to the bottom with view after view around every corner.

We came upon a pretty little café called La Zagara. The pastries on display in the front window were too tempting to pass by, so we went inside and had another wonderful lunch. Uno Calzone e uno Mezzaluna per favore. Grazie. This was followed by exquisite lemon tiramasu and lemon sponge cake, with coffee to wash it all down with.

The beach is black volcanic sand with deck chairs in rows. I liked the ambiance of the beach - just lay down on the deck chairs and let the water come to you. There is no effort required at all. It was wonderful to see people enjoying themselves so much and we felt so lucky to be there.

The trip back to Sorrento was another feast for the eyes. We sat on the left side this time, so once again we had great views. I now have so much video footage it will take a while to edit, but it is so special to keep all these wonderful memories alive. What a great way to finish our stay in Sorrento.

Ciao. XX

Here is a link to the "Capri", video of our day spent there.

Flickr link to Pompeii Album https://www.flickr.com/photos/123431276@N05/sets/72157644927002295/

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Photos

Villa Alviana Anna
We are so pleased to have used a quiet place away from the big hotels.

Breakfast
Home made cakes, croissants, fresh fruit salad and marmalade. The owner makes the marmalade with her own oranges and lemons.

Happy Chappy.
Little orchids on each table.

Comments

[Fiona Walker]

By hook or by clog I'll be first in this blog
A beautiful blog, Liz. You are such a good writer! What adventures you are having!