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Published: September 7th 2006
Krakow - Zakopane (Bus)
12 August Oscypki - golden, round and of a home made appearance; stacked in piles atop traditional, wooden farmer’s carts to entice the passer by to buy this region’s specialty. They are mysterious to an outsider, looking like a light, puffed, sweet pastry - possibly filled with some kind of custard. We are both hungry and our intrigue had almost turned to obsession. part of our travelling is to experience the local delicacies. Having not yet had lunch, it seemed a good idea to order the largest size Oscypki on offer.
Holding the Oscypki, it was heavier than custard filled pastry we imagined. Pehaps more like a Polish highland mince or vegetable filled treat. Satisfied that this better justified the relatively expensive 7 zloty price, and that it would serve as better nourishment to abate the mid-afternoon hunger, I held the Oscypki the take my first taste. Biting down on the mysterious parcel, a face from the passing crowd gave a most curious look as my mouth filled with a salty, baked cheese of a texture similar to fetta. Leanne double over laughing at the look on my face: a medley of surprise, bewilderment and
disappointment.
Zakopane was crowded beyond belief. The winter holiday resort town nestled in the Tatra Mountains, close to the Slovakian border, was not the quiet retreat into the Polish alps we had imagined. Our ticket cost only 13 zloty (AUD$6) each for the 2-hour bus journey south from Krakow - we would not find our accommodation so cheaply. After paying too much for the last double room in town we decided walk along the congested pedestrian street.
Despite the crowds of people, it quickly became apparent what attracted so many to this town. The enticing aroma of shashlik and traditional sausages turning over a charcoal grill drew us into its halls of large wooden tables for a feast. The lode (local ice-cream) is made with rich buttermilk. Gloty is a waffle topped with local, fresh raspberries and whipped cream. We ate them as we walked after dinner and watched the sun set behind the sharp mountain peaks. The next day a funicular ride took us to the top of a range where we looked back down upon Zakopane with its distinct ski jump stadiums and across the valley to the steep alpine range described as the reclining knight.
The strong connection with the heritage of alpine shepherds and farmers from this area is immediately obvious. Tatran highlander chieftain caricatures are drawn with their traditional, decorated, felted clothes and ceremonially significant, high woollen hats to advertise the strong local brew. This also seems to evoke the desire of local residents to participate and become their own, traditionally dressed characters. Probably as much for a continuity of their identity in land which has been drawn into a number of nation’s borders throughout the centuries as for the tourists.
A part of this tradition is the largest of Tatran festivals, amidst which we has unwittingly found ourselves. This weekend was filled with traditional music from fiddles, accordions and the accompanying soaring vocal harmonies of mountain men; parades and pageants; traditional costume and shepherding demonstrations. Apparently it was all to celebrate a cheese made from un-pasteurised sheep milk - the Oscypki.
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Tomasz
non-member comment
Gloty
Interesing impressions. I had a good laugh reading about your rendezvous with oscypki. You should never buy the largest size as they are usually too salty, too dry and.. too much! The best is the medium mould, shaped like a small barrel. And you should always try a sliver before you buy (they'll always cut you one). Properly made oscypki are squeeky between the teeth, greasy, and have a rich smell as they are traditionally smoked using fruit tree wood. Just one more word: I think you unintentionally blended "zloty" (the Polish currency) and "gofry" ['goh-free] (the waffle w/ whipped cream and topping) to finally arrive at "gloty". Anything resembling "gloty" in the Polish spelling is "gluty" ("snot") and you don't want to buy that! Cheers.