Volga-Baltic waterway

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The Volga-Baltic canal facilitates boat travel from St Petersburg on the Baltic across Russia to Astrakhan on the Black Sea. We departed St Petersburg on the Neva River and entered Lake Ladoga. After traversing Lake Ladoga, we exited on the Svir River which flows from the Onega Lake. The Volga-Baltic canal links Lake Onega to the Kovzna River, White Lake, the Upper and Lower Sheksna Rivers, and thence into the Rybinsk reservoir on the Volga River. We are then lifted into the Uglich reservoir and into Moscow via the Moskva River and Moscow Canal. The Volga River flows downstream from the Rybinsk reservoir to the Caspian Sea.

There are eighteen locks along the route which raise and one that lowers the ship for a total net gain of 162m above sea level. The first lock began Monday’s entertainment, after which we arrived at Mandrogui Island for a barbecue and a tour of unusually decorated homes where locals demonstrated numerous crafts including felting and lace making. At a vodka museum the more alcoholically adventurous among us could sample four different vodka’s, from an array of choices, for a small fee. Back aboard the Lev Tolstoy, we had our first Russian language lesson, accompanied by much laughter, followed by a Russian dance lesson and more laughter.

On Tuesday we detoured into Lake Onega for a stop at Kizhi, a Heritage Park-style accumulation of old Russian buildings all made from wood (of which they have vast amounts) and without any nails. We were told this was because nails ruined the wood but we wondered where families living there years ago would have obtained nails. They seemed to be a long way from any source of metal. Our guide described what life would have been like there 150 years ago; how families kept a hen house inside because it was too cold for the hens outside in winter; how pagan beliefs did not allow the people to drink water or wear a cross inside the sauna-style bathhouse and how they would leave a piece of soap behind to placate the evil spirits; how girls were married at 15-16 but only if they had a dowry. By 21, the matchmaker would have given up on them and they would have to resign themselves to living with their parents and taking on the hardest work. We also saw a windmill that could be moved by two men and a horse to best take advantage of any wind. Keith found himself humming tunes from Fiddler on the Roof as we followed our tour guide around the island.



Our second Russian language lesson included a game of bingo but we did not win the bright orange tee shirt with a picture of our route on it and I don’t think I’ll be fluent by Saturday, when we leave the ship. I was glad I’d skipped the matrioshka doll painting workshop when I heard that the resulting dolls were to be displayed and anonymously voted upon. Having negotiated several locks last night we have full steam ahead, a maximum of 18 knots, through brown, muddy-looking water.

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Photos

Kizhi Island
The farthest north we go. Not a lot of night.

Kizhi
Timber frame domes

Kizhi
Old timber frame churches

Trafic
Some lakes are so shallow the channel is quite narrow

Afternoon tea
Frances participating in the vodka tasting.

Uglich
One of the churches in the Uglich kremlin

Comments

[Tony Danks]

Happy Anniversary
Hi Both, Firstly: HAPPY ANNIVERSARY - for tomorrow if you pick this up quickly :-) ... and thank you for your card. We will be opening cards this evening as Caro is at Burrows Lea (Harry Edwards sanctuary) all day. I did not think it worth sending you a card as I had no idea where you would be next - though I suspect a gradual move South into Germany Looking forward to seeing you on the 11th I shall monitor the Heathrow arrivals - but if you cannot find us waiting in terminal 5 our mobile numbers are C: 07815520017; T: 07815502278. Just one minor point: I trust neither of you are allergic to cats? Kate (current staying with us, probably until mid-September - long story) has two kittens (who are ensuring that we will be decorating and buying new soft furnishings soon!). Tony

[Golden Years]

Volga Baltic Waterway
Realized I didn't respond to this Tony. Thanks for your mobile numbers. No, we are not allergic to cats and we were in Moscow on our anniversary so you were right about not being able to reach us.