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Published: June 20th 2013
The view back into BiH
From the top of the hill behind Dubrovnik - looking back at where I cameIt’s been over a week since I’ve updated the blog I know. But, it’s been a busy one. I’ve flitted into another country for four days, Croatia, and am now back into the arms of Bosnia and Herzegovina but only for a few days and then it’s onto a new love, Montenegro. What a travel hussy!
Being back in Dubrovnik was a weird experience. Seeing people I know since I last saw them ten years ago was also a weird experience. My ‘rational’ self had high expectations for remembering. The reality though was that everything appeared so totally unfamiliar. The old town yes, it looked familiar but the choking of it by tourists was in my eyes a new phenomenon. Granted, last time I was there was in September, off peak, and this time I was right in the thick of it. What a difference a couple of months can make!
Anyway, I was in Dubrovnik for four nights; 2 in private rooms and 2 with my friend ‘the Cat’. The private room was actually very, very comfortable although being in the old town it was inevitably up quite a few steps – enough to get the heart pumping.
Dubrovnik Old Town
From the top of the hill (it has a name but I've forgotten it) And then she suggested I also bring my bicycle into my room – another flight of stairs. Ugh. Dragana is heavy – especially first thing in the morning and last thing at night.
The Cat found me the next day after I had sent an email with contact details (the wonders of technology!) and, after a wonderful lunch with Mum, it was off to work it off. A cable car operates to take you to the top of the hill behind Dubrovnik but we chose to walk up, and then down it. The down part involved a little on-road walking. What a frightening experience that was. It’s bad enough on bicycle, worse as a pedestrian I think. Anyway it wasn’t too much, thank goodness, The Cat found a path down and back to the Old Town. Phew!
The next day The Cat came to help me move. Always nice to have an extra pair of hands for the slog. Once everything is on Dragana, she makes it so much easier. When it’s not, well it’s just damn heavy! (Btw, I’ve since found out that Dragana means my love, my dear. That she most certainly is.)
After coffee
The Swimming Spot
Quiet and peaceful and because it was all a bit late, The Cat suggested a swim. You know what me and the beach are like… Anyway, I DID go swimming. And it was lovely. It’s not every day you can swim in the Adriatic. But then The Cat said it was too windy so it was time to pack up. The rest of the afternoon was spent watching The Life of Brian and skyping a friend in Germany who I had also met back in 2002. His memory of me was faded. Glad I wasn’t the only one with memory issues (!)
The following day the plan was to paint. But, on said following day, it was discovered that it was a Saint’s day, and therefore no work ought to be done. Hmmmm, so far my plan for being useful has not amounted to much. But we still went to visit his house and his brother (in these parts it’s not unusual for family members to share houses but live in separate storeys) some 20km away from Dubrovnik centre (I think). This was done with the motorbike, an old East German one. I’m not a pillion aficionado. All I can say is
I was glad it wasn’t a long ride – for everyone’s sake.
That evening we went to the cinema. We were the only ones there until about 15 minutes in, when another two people arrived. Four of us watched ‘Conspirator’. Not altogether the happiest film to watch. Think we should have chosen Hangover III. Oh well.
And finally it was the day to move on. I was getting a bit restless actually to start moving again. If you have ever done any type of fitness workout for any length of time (not saying that this is!) you’ll know how easy it is to feel sluggish again. It really only takes about 3 days. The ride out of Dubrovnik was such a hard slog. The road was steep and narrow, it was hot and there may have been a little temper tantrum somewhere in there. (I’m not used to having an escort. The Cat had suggested riding his bike with me to Trebinje and who am I to stop him?) But it was on to the open road soon enough and things improved (including the gradient) – phew and yay! I do find riding with people quite difficult though.
Anyway, we got to Trebinje and The Cat bought us the best burek (a flaky pastry dish stuffed with minced meat and usually eaten with yoghurt) which we sat and ate in the park. Then we had a coffee and found one of his friends in the process, or was it the other way around. Either way his friend phoned a friend and before you know it I had somewhere to stay for the night. And after the move, it was on to Café Bar Jazz for hours. I wasn’t drinking but it was still entertaining watching the tongues get looser and the English improve in the process. We didn’t leave the bar until 8.30. We didn’t end up having dinner until 10.30. I didn’t end up getting home until 2.30 – and I was the early one! I’m too old for this.
Needless to say, when The Cat came to pick me up the following day I was a bit tired. Don’t know how he managed it. Practice I guess. We had a coffee in town in a lovely big square shaded by very large plane trees. It was buzzing. The market was happening and
it seemed like everyone was out (except for the night owls ofcourse who were sleeping off the night before). The Cat went to get burek (not as good this time), another coffee and then it was time to say goodbye. But not before he organised a bed for the night for me in Bileca where I was heading. Ciao ciao Cat, it was nice seeing you again and thank you sooooooo much for everything. In particular your kindness and for showing Dragana some much needed TLC – she rides a lot better now. Oil is a wonderful thing.
Midday is a late start in anyone’s language and I got the full midday sun which in these parts is hot and dry. And it was uphill. Ofcourse. But manageable and with beautiful vistas all around. Mountains, lakes, blue skies. It was truly wonderful to be on the road again and to experience it all. I had missed it.
My direction once in Bileca was to go to Café Bonnie. When I got to Bileca I inevitably took the wrong road – no surprises there! I ended up trying to ask these women in a shop whether they could tell
Arslanagica Bridge Trebinje
My view from the Jazz Bar for many hours. me where Café Bonnie was. I’m sure they were thinking how can this woman, who doesn’t speak our language, who has come from Australia (they asked me where I was from) and is riding a bicycle know about Café Bonnie. And I’m sure their brains were rattled when I then asked if they knew Veljko. He is the one with dreadlocks. As it turns out yes, they did know Veljko. He was the cousin of one of the women. And so he was summoned and he came with his niece, Ivana, to meet me on his beautiful Kawasaki motorbike. Easy!
Veljko and his family showed such generosity and kindness and made me feel so welcome. It made me think about how we do things back home. When was the last time I invited a stranger to my home, fed them, took them out and gave up my bed so they could sleep in it. Um, never I’m ashamed to say. I have a whole lot of owing to do. And strangers to meet.
Another late(ish) start but really it doesn’t matter. These days I’m only travelling as far as the next hotel and this seems to be about
40km, which actually, factoring late starts and uphill and winding roads is OK. It’s enough. So last night I stayed in a down-at-heel, socialist era hotel with plastic plants that had even seen better days in Gacko. To its credit it did have the most comfortable bed. Before I say anything too derogatory about Gacko itself I probably need to get some distance between me and the town… Suffice to say I did not get a great vibe and there was a lot of pro-Mladic propaganda around the place. I shall say no more.
The following morning it was another climb first thing but with rewards yet again of breathtaking scenery. My photos don’t really do it justice but I spent a lot of time stopping. I was in awe. And it was day number two and pass number two and I did it! The last pass was 1329m. The road today led me to Sutjeska National Park a highlight of my trip so far. So so beautiful. Although, oddly enough, I had just come over pass number 2 and was starting my descent (but not getting very far because of the picture-taking) when this man in a delivery
van asked if I spoke German. Yes I said. Would you like a lift. No thanks, it’s very beautiful here. It’s also very beautiful in my car. Um NEIN! Said politely ofcourse – several times! And again when he stopped further down the road. I just kept riding. Thankfully the roads are so narrow and winding that parking can be difficult, as well as dangerous. Yes, they have their advantages.
And so I arrived safe and sound in Sutjeska National Park. What a day, what a road!
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Sharyn
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Bernii and Bosnia....banging on!
You are such an inspiration my girl! I have had trouble seeing your earlier posts, but now all is good. I love your international style. No fear or at least very well hidden!!! So self sufficient and willing to trust. Just fabulous. 1 week until Semester break, 2 weeks of no TAFE, then into Term 3 and the hard work!! Getting over Thailand and the events around that time. Incredibly cold at night at the moment. no cloud cover so 2c overnight for us here in Glen Waverley, 0c at Moorabbin and plenty of other places, so the news said. Same again tonight we are informed. The days have heated up to an amazing 14c!!!! Ok in the car, bit chilly on the pavement. Hope that the rest of your trip has just as many 'unplanned' detours and meetings, as what you've had so far. It makes for enjoyable reading whilst snuggled up in many blankets, sipping my hot cup of tea. Take care Bernii, and I guess I'll see ya, when I'm looking at ya! xoxox