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Published: October 24th 2012
Day 1:
Arriving at Seoul Station at lunchtime, I thought we had avoided the peak hour crowds. No, there were thousands of people in the metro. It was raining so I guess everybody was trying to avoid getting wet. It didn't take too long to find our way to the correct station, but we couldn't locate the hotel. Finally, we walked into another hotel and asked directions. They were great; a guy practically took us to the hotel. Our room is quirky but has everything you need, including breakfast (hopefully not rice porridge). We immediately went out for lunch and, once again, we managed to consume enough food to feed a North Korean village. Dean still hasn't eaten crickets yet, so he hasn't completed his culinary tour of Korea. Eleanor bought her second umbrella of the holiday (the first one broke a few days ago after a 'sword fight' with Dean). Umbrella tally: Eleanor 2, Dean 1 (said he didn't need one but gave in after the first rainy day in Tokyo), Jane 0 (still carrying the one I packed in Melbourne). Back at the hotel we looked at maps and the Korean Lonely Planet and decided to go to
City Hall, Seoul
An old building, with a brilliant modern one behind.a market in the evening.
Walking underground most of the way, (just like Japan, everything is connected by subway) we popped our heads up like meerkats and found ourselves in what was a decidedly unmarket location. It was only by chance that we stumbled upon the Gwangjang Market. Lots of food, especially mung bean pancakes. It was too early for dinner, but I'm definitely going to try them at some stage because they don't look too bad. We walked back towards the hotel overground this time so we could see Seoul at night. Lots of lights, traffic and jewellery stores. There's a lot of people buying jewellery at 7pm on a Monday night. Dinner was at a spicy chicken bar/restaurant. Dean and I have an ongoing discussion about what constitutes a bar. My definition includes the following: smoking is allowed, at least two TVs showing sport, mainly male customers and no children to be seen. Dean believes that if the establishment is serving food, then it's a restaurant. With that definition, downstairs at the Mordialloc Sporting Club's back bar is a restaurant then.
Day 2:
Breakfast the next morning was in the hotel's 'restaurant'. I can see
city hall
The modern structure looks amazing that in Asia, the word 'restaurant' is bandied around willy-nilly. This one is a room smaller than our sleeping quarters with a bench running around the walls (aka tables) with seven stools. First in, first seated. It's rather like a subway train, just missing the handles to hang on to. Anyway, the bread is actually toasted. Dean and Eleanor tried the rice porridge and were happy, although the coffee tastes funny. Dean convinced a rather nervous looking lad that North Korea was not going to attack South Korea today, so he set out on his day fairly happy. Another couple told us to register at our embassy, just in case. I don't think a war is going to start this week, but we have decided that visiting the DMZ probably isn't going to happen. Roads were closed yesterday and today due to protestors, so with heightened military tensions it's best we keep away.
We spent the morning at some more markets, checking out the latest in Korean winter wear (fur is in), shoes (lots of sparkles) and 'inner-wear' (underwear). The bottom-holders grabbed Dean's attention. Lunch was in a Japanese restaurant where we practised our Korean manners (having read in
Outside the National Museum
A great building, but as Dean said, all sizzle, no steak. Lonely Planet this morning all the things we did incorrectly yesterday, we were keen to impress today). The tourist office gave us a postcard each and sent them off for us after we had written a message. How nice. Then we tackled the subway again to head off to Lotte World, which is a big mall, children's adventure park and hotel complex. There's a few activities for older children there and I tried to convince Eleanor to go ice-skating, but she wasn't keen. We should have forced her and called it a 'PE lesson'. Anyway, we had a sticky beak around, a coffee and cake stop and then called it a day. Yes, we are eating too many cakes. I ordered an espresso because the Americanos are too big and weird tasting, but it was disgusting.
The evening was spent quietly because Dean and Eleanor are planning an early start for 'Everland' tomorrow. Dinner was eaten in a bar/restaurant around the corner. When Dean was withdrawing cash from an ATM in 7/11, I discovered why the coffee in Korea tastes weird - it's hazelnut flavoured!!! Not only are they 'Americano' bucket-sized, they are flavoured!!!! What is going on here?
Outside the war memorial
We could catch up on a bit of history,the or check out the latest Korean fashions or play at Miffy world in the basement. So many options. I need to do some more investigations tomorrow.
Day 3:
Dean and Eleanor were up early, ready to tackle the steepest ride in the world at 'Everland'. Eleanor's version of events, as dictated to me at 8:43pm, the next night:
Dad woke me up very early, we got dressed and had breakfast and headed off to Everland. We jumped on two trains and two buses and finally arrived about five minutes after it opened. On the courtesy bus it was full of 12 year old kids yelling and screaming and going crazy. We headed straight to the steepest ride in the world, and the scariest ride in the park - the T Express. We lined up for 55 minutes and dad made a friend. When we got to go on it, we were in the second front seat. It started moving and I was already freaking out (aka SCREAMING). We were lifted up and moved a tiny bit before we went around a corner and, wooooosh! We flew down the steepest descent in the world. While we were going down, Dad and I were screaming our heads off. I have never screamed louder. It was like flying
because the only thing holding you down is the bar in front of you. We went up again and then went around a really sharp bend. It seemed like a really long time and I was still absolutely shrieking. When it started to slow down at the end I was still freaking out, my stomach felt like it came out of my mouth. We got off the TExpress and I swore to myself I would never do that again. Our second ride was a 4D Experience and Dad said it was L.A.M.E.. We came out of the theatre and headed to Mystery Mansion, a ride which takes you in a little four seat carriage and you had to shoot the red lights. I came third and Dad won. Safari World was next on the list. Lots of animals and I saw a Liger, white tigers, lions, owls and black bears. The tour guide fed them and they stood up right next to the bus (not on our side, unfortunately). We looked around at the reptiles, monkeys, baboons and then we couldn't find our way out. We were stuck in there for about 10 minutes and found a path we thought
In the wash room at Seoul Tower
A lovely view of the city and beyond. was the exit, but it was more animals! We went on a couple of rides after that and then went on one of my favourites (I had never been on it before) - the Hurricane. About 30 people are in a circle and you spin around while swinging. We came off the Hurricane and headed off to the Rodeo Show. We waited in line for 10 minutes and met three Korean girls who were on a school excursion. I partnered one of them in the Rodeo, a ride which spins your section around while the whole thing spins. After that, my three new friends and I went to the Pirate Ship, which is also one of my favourites. It was like the Hurricane, but not spinning around. We went on it twice and the second time we went up the top, which is the scariest part. After the Pirate ship we went straight to the Bumper Cars. I hit Dad once and my two friends once. We got our cheeks painted; I got a chicken with love hearts and dots around it. Afterwards, I got extremely wet on a water ride because I was at the front. Dinner was at
It's Halloween, Korean style.
What's a kangaroo got to do with Korea and Halloween ? a Chinese place. I ate fried rice with chicken and a really disgusting black sauce. We had to say goodbye to my three friends after dinner. Dad and I then went to the Rotating House (obviously a rotating building) but we couldn't understand it because it was all in Korean. We came out of that really happy and then decided to go on a rollercoaster with two loops and two corkscrews. I closed my eyes for the whole time. The Moonlight Parade was fantastic. There were GIANT floats, performers and dancers. I've never seen anything brighter in my life. We then went back to the Hurricane again and then the Loop de Loop ride again, but I kept my eyes open this time. It took a long time to get back to the hotel and it was cold. Dad bought me a fluffy jacket for the train ride home. We were back at 11:45pm.
Jane's Day: not as adventurous but I managed to find a nice coffee (after showing the guy how to make it). Bought a couple of things at my favourite store, Uniqlo.
DAY 4:
Despite the late night, at 7:30am we were bright-eyed due
to the 'ondol' style of Korean heating in the floor. We've had the window open 24/7 because it's like a sauna. As someone on Trip Advisor remarked, you need a degree in engineering to figure out the air conditioner remote control. Every so often we turn it on to 18 degrees, until the room cools down to a balmy 24 degrees. We've had the delights of what could be karaoke wafting through the window, unfortunately not worth listening too, however. At first I thought it was a call to prayer for Muslims, although I'm not sure it's supposed to last for five hours.
We thought we should take it easy today so decided to jump on the 'Seoul City Tour Bus'. A jump on,on jump off affair, we were keen to see the joys of the city without expending too much energy. Walking to the bus stop, we strolled into an historic housing area which was quite lovely but very steep in some parts. The bus took us to the National Museum, where schoolkids were going nuts. Admittedly we were in the Children's section, but these kids were spinning like they'd been marinated in sugar overnight. The next stop
was a little more sedate, however it was holding Seoul Fashion Week on the ground floor and Miffy & friends in the basement. Yes, you guessed, it could only be the War Memorial. Despite these bizarre exhibitions, the military displays in the museum were brilliant. I would give it 10/10, but because the machine gun experience was closed, I rate it a 9. The Seoul Tower was ok; we watched the sun set and the lights of the city come to life. By 6:30pm we were ready to call it quits and find some dinner.
We have eaten in a huge variety of places, but this one was the first where the spit bucket was at your feet. Squeezing into the small shed doubling as an eating establishment, a helpful customer ordered for us. Basically the place only served fried chicken (Korean style), cabbage topped with ketchup and mayonnaise, popcorn (Korean style) and unsalted beer nuts. Oh, and beer. As long as I couldn't see the spit bucket, I was relatively happy. With most food groups covered, we ate merrily and left as full as googs. The Korean Fried Chicken frenzy was over and although it is the best
fried chicken I have ever eaten, it's probably for the best we cut back on the deep fried food for a little while.
Day 5:
Our flight to Beijing was scheduled to depart at 13:05, so we didn't rush to leave the sauna and ate a leisurely breakfast while contemplating the next 10 days. Our last journey on the subway didn't go as smoothly as planned, however our ignorance got us through and we even received our ticket deposit back! We were lucky that virtually nobody working in the transport system speaks English fluently. Although in the event of a North Korean attack, we wouldn't be so fortunate. Despite the gas masks and silver space suits conveniently located throughout the subway, our inability to communicate would've seen us crowd surfed out the nearest exit.
Goodbye Korea and your world champion spitters. 안녕히 계세요. to kimchi (a North Korean plot to poison the South, I'm sure) and 안녕히 계세요. to all the delicious food we did manage to eat. I still can't pronounce many words in what surely must be one of the most difficult languages in the world to learn but we had fun trying.
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Brad
non-member comment
SE Asia
When are you in South East Asia?