idling on Sapsido - a proper clambake


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Published: June 17th 2012
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Sunday 17 June - I had decided that a visit to the island of Sapsido was recommended, mostly because it was covered in detail in the Lonely Planet (yes I could strike out where no man has gone before but there are risks.... had had enough adventure the previous day). First of all however I had to change my accommodation. As it was Sunday and the pressure is only really on Friday and Saturday accommodation I walked over to the Motel Coconuts which was advertising WiFi. My purpose was to ascertain the price before I wheeled my bag over. When she told me 50,000 I began to walk away, only to get my stuff and check in properly. However this must have been taken as the old market -- walk away price negotiation thing, and she called me back and gave me the calculator to indicate my price. Naturally I said 40,000Krw ($34) and she said okay - but she wanted cash not credit card so that was that -- pulled out the cash, got the key and moved my bag 20 m. All done by noon.

Then headed down to the harbour in a taxi as the Lonely Planet
Motel Coconuts roomMotel Coconuts roomMotel Coconuts room

at Daecheon Beach
indicated that the ferry was at 12:50 PM. It was actually 1 PM but I was well early. Met two American girls and one American guy who were also getting the same ferry, but going to another island further on. They were all English teachers near Seoul and were just having a weekend away. One girl was from Alaska, the other from South Dakota and her boyfriend from Washington DC. We had a nice chat about the world in general and Korea in particular. One girl seemed to be the driver for their sudden "mystery" destination weekends away.

After 40 minutes we arrived at the island of Sapsido and docked at one end -- I was already informed that it docks there at high tide but at the other end of the island (40 minutes walk away) at low tide - somewhat essential information I am sure you will agree as you cannot see the other jetty from the other. The place was delightfully quiet and there was hardly anyone about, even islanders. Walked to the first beach but then walked on to the second Jinmeoneo - there was someone half asleep on the sand - that was it - so I simply walked to one end and behind some rocks switched into my swimmers and went in for a swim. It was very shallow but the water was lovely, alternating between warm and cool currents. Sunned myself on the rock to dry off then began walking in the general direction of the other end of the island. The road did go past a few holiday houses in which people were packing up their weekend. Then through a nice pine forest then came out at the third beach which had a stony line at the high water mark, so my chosen beach was the best as it was completely sandy

Arrival at the next bay and the site of queued cars indicated I had reached the right place for the jetty (I did have a map and also a useful photograph on my camera of the island map at the first jetty). Met up with the Americans again on the ferry who had it seemed gone to a very small island. They were going directly to the train station as they had school on Monday so went with them in their taxi to the station to check out the likely exit times tomorrow, otherwise it would have been the bus. They headed off and I went back to town in a taxi.

Had a shower to wash off the salty sea and opened the nice Spanish red wine. Then walked just around the corner to a restaurant which I had seen after the other less successful experience. At least this one had some key menu items outside in English. I decided that grilled clams for 30,000Krw (about $26) was the go. As I was really the only person in the place, the lady cut up with scissors my standard pancake thing, brought me some water and also cut up and pulled out the clams when cooked as necessary. Good basic service. These were no baby vongole Italian style but quite large as you will see from the photograph. This was more than enough to restore my view of the world - helped by further Spanish red when I got in!


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(literally) blackfish(literally) blackfish
(literally) blackfish

at Jinmeoneo Beach
Sapsido ferry ticketSapsido ferry ticket
Sapsido ferry ticket

if boat goes down they know who you are??
with the pancakewith the pancake
with the pancake

suitably cut up for you


18th June 2012

Elvis Clambake.
Hi Mike, Good value indeed at Motel Coconuts. Handy indeed to know the ferry left on the other side! Your "dip" sounded very nice, good idea to have the swimmers. Some tucker with the clams, that looked good, your writing on ferry ticket? Trust they have your other friend to translate the English writing for them. he he. Huddo.

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