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Published: April 2nd 2012
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I have already trekked for 10 days and have returned to civilization. I have had my massage and my pedicure to recover from what was one of the most beautiful and relaxing yet most physically challenging treks I’ve ever undertaken.
The trek started from a familiar place, Pokhara where I’d already been with my first trip from Delhi to Kathmandu. It was another opportunity to see the spectacular views of the Himalayan chain of mountains to the north. I was already quite familiar with all of the really good restaurants (meaning places that served juicy steaks) and great free Wi-Fi cafes that made wicked macchiatos. The trek actually began with a short flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara. From Pokhara we drove to our starting point at Nayapul. The drive was so beautiful and serene as we made our way past little villages and farmland and then eventually to higher ground where rice paddy terraces lined the valley.
Once in Nayapul, the trek began after a short break to stretch our legs and for our porters to organize our bags. We had a tour leader, a guide and two porters for 3 trekkers. Our bags were
limited to a weight of 12 kgs and the porters a limit of 25kgs in total. Not so bad or heavy considering that Sherpas that do the Everest climb carry up to 120 kgs!! We walked for about two and half hours on the first day and were already rewarded with a majestic view of Macchapuccharre (6993m). For the next five days we would be ascending, yes, climbing from 1160m to 3660m to Kopra Ridge. Some days the inclines were on a 75 degree angle and the drops, if you accidentally lost your footing along the narrowest of paths would mean certain death. Yes! Death! Are you scared? I was!
The next day we continued our steep climb to Ghandruk (1940m), a terraced hillside village. We passed through the settlements of Klieu, Kimche and Chane where we were able to see the villager’s way of life and see more beautiful scenery. Ghandruk, our stop for the night is famous for its many men who have served in the British Gurkha regiments. From our lodge we had spectacular views of Annapurna South (7219m) and Hinuchuli (6441m).
On the following day, we had an “easier” walk
since by this time we should have found our “trekking legs” according to the trip notes but we were still climbing. We entered an oak and rhododendron forest which is a highlight for this trek at this time of the year since the rhododendrons are in full bloom. There were no villages along this route but it was a very pretty and serene walk as we listened to birds sing, saw tumbling waterfalls and inhaled the glorious perfume of Daphne flowers. It sounds so idyllic and it truly was. At our lodge in Tadapani (2450m), we were rewarded once again with spectacular views - this time of Annapurna II (7937m), Annapurna III (7555m), Annapurna IV (7525m), Annapurna South (7237m), Macchapuchhare (6993m) and Lamjung Himal (6931m).
For our next ascent, we climbed for five hours. This was perhaps one of our most difficult days where we encountered ice and snow. This is of course, for a Canadian was not a problem but when you’re faced with a death drop if you lose your footing on the step that’s packed with thick ice or a ledge that has 4 inches of snow on it – that’s another conundrum! Our
guide, Harka was prepared for that day’s trek with an ice pick. We had learned on the day of our departure that the Annapurna area had a three foot snowfall. Apparently, it was of the powdery kind but none the less, it was snow. I, of course, was prepared for everything from my head to my ankles – wind and waterproof pants and jacket, wool hat, gloves, scarf, umbrella, down-filled jacket, wool socks, thermals, sunhat etc (and thanks to Angie’s advice)… everything except for Gore-Tex waterproof shoes. In the end, my feet did get a little wet after trekking through the snow but luckily I was able to dry off my hiking shoes at the guesthouse by the wood burning stove during the evening. Disaster averted! Many of you are aware of the quest I went through to try and replace the perfect pair of hiking shoes that I left in Italy. A word of advice, don’t ever, ever, ever give up your perfect pair of trekking shoes until you find another perfect pair of trekking shoes! Believe me its torture. Never the less, we were lucky once again, because we didn’t have too much snow when we reached the
higher altitudes.
Off to Kopra Ridge we went ascending for yet another six hours. The difference with today’s destination is that we would be above the tree line. We would be higher than the clouds and even higher than some commuter planes. We reached our campsite shortly after the lunch hour and were greeted with breathtaking views. I am running out of superlatives and for some things in life there are no words and so I will rely on my photos to do the rest of the embellishing for me. This extraordinary (I found one more) panorama included Annapurna South, towering directly above and only six kilometers away, and Fang and Nilgiri to the north across the depths of the Kali Gnadakhi Valley, the Dhaulagiri Himal dominates the entire western skyline. After our days climb we went on an afternoon hike so that we could get an even closer look at Dhaulagiri. The hills truly came alive as we strolled through the grass and snow and sat and just absorbed all of the natural and wondrous beauty that we were surrounded by.
After this day, we began our descent leaving behind this spectacular panorama
of rock, ice and snow. Our trek continued through the forests bursting with rhododendrons and magnolias. We walked through and past some of the most picturesque villages that were made even more lovely and memorable by the gracious hospitality and kindness of all the Nepali people that we encountered along the way. On the way down, we were rewarded with the sighting of yaks and maks(female) and some of the most glorious horses and dogs. I have a new found love for a particular dog, the Tibetan Massif. Some of the places we walked through were truly dreamlike and unforgettable – illustrations from picture books.
There are some experiences in life that leave you speechless, breathless and renew your faith in God and mankind. This, my friends was one of those experiences. One of the reasons that this trek was so special for me was the people that I spent ten days with Pema, our leader, Harka, our guide and Sally and Brian “Snickers Bill”. I couldn’t have asked for a better group of people to spend 24/7 with than these people who helped to make this such a beautiful experience for me. I actually prayed for
good people to walk with and my prayers were answered. Thank you!
Having the privilege of being able to do this walk and witness the simple way of life and the gratitude that the villagers along the way gave for your business was humbling and filled me with gratitude for the so many, often too many things I have in my life as well. It makes you realize that it is not what you have in your life but the people that you surround yourself with that make you the richer and happier person. I am so blessed to have wonderful people in my life and so grateful to have had this beautiful experience that I will cherish for the rest of my life. Nepal is definitely a place I shall return to…inshallah…
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anonymous
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Ain't No Mountain High Enough!
When life gets difficult, use this journey as a symbol of the rewards that await us once we go through the process. You've ascended incredible heights and have been rewarded with beautiful scenes and generous people. Keep climbing those mountains and reaching for the stars!!!