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Published: June 17th 2006
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Big waves at Pichilemu
Our first stop on our journey south. Santiago just happened to be in mid-revolution when we arrived back following our trip to the hardware store to buy a plug adaptor (some pretty fancy Spanish was used to get this). The students in Chile take any opportunity to riot and protest, a few months ago they complained that the bus ticket prices were increased. On this occasion it was something to do with student fees. Clearly they don´t have a Tony Blair government to help smooth out the problems in the world. So we were happily walking back to the hostel when we were suddenly in the middle of a large pack of students, pushing our way through them we ended up in "no mans land" between the student protesters and the police in full riot gear. Water cannons blasting towards us and with tears running down our face from the gas which had just been thrown by the police. With James at the helm he guided Anne back to the safety of the hostel.
Fortunately the following day we were setting off on a week long bus journey around Southern Chile on the Pachamama Bus. Pachamama is the Mapache Indian word for "Mother Earth." We joined 3
John and John playing table football
Its raining outside - nothing new there for southern Chile other couples from England and Ireland and set off in the sun south.
It wasn´t long before it was raining and after a bonding session over coffee we arrived in our first destination, Pichilemu - a world renowned surfing beach. Despite the rain Anne and I went for a short walk along the volcanic sands before the heavens opened and we had to run back to shelter. An early start on the beers and wine followed and before long stunted conversation between the couples had turned into free flowing babble, including table football and Tango dancing!
An early start (with a headache) the following morning allowed us to set off on a 800 km drive south to Pucon. A stop at a museum owned by a former arms dealer (used to be on the US top 10 most wanted) who now has to remain in Chile to avoid arrest. The museum was fantastic with hundreds of different types of artefacts, from Nazi stuff to dinosaur bones. A full steam train, Inca mummies and even an F1 car.
After a long drive we arrived in Pucon (it was still raining) to a lovely hostel. We were supposed to
Mummified Inca head
At the arms dealers museum be climbing an active volcano the following morning but the weather was already looking dodgy. After more beers and a meal we ended up in bed around 2am. A 6am start and we walked to the guide shop (you are only allowed to climb the mountain with a guide - much to James´disgust) we were told that the weather was too bad and they called it off. Some went back to bed and we wandered around town (its very like a Swiss ski resort). Our plan was to spend a week here but after checking the weather it was forcast to rain solid for the next 7 days, so we decided to continue on the bus.
The only exciting thing we did was go horse riding. It was still raining so was alittle miserable but did see a nice waterfall. James´horse was more like a donkey and would only follow the horse in front despite being kicked a few times. Anne´s on the other hand was more like an untamed beast which kept trying to kick the other horse and was only happy when it was at the front charging down the tracks. Fortunately Anne managed to control it
Baking
Making brownies for the journey to help you sleep. and show it who was boss.
It was Louise´s birthday the following night so we were in for a big night. We drove to some hot springs 45 mins away armed with crate loads of beer and spirits (1.50GBP for a decent bottle of rum). The springs were lovely and despite it raining were still too hot. Probably drank more water than alcohol whilst there. However on our return we would make up for it. A late dinner at 1am (even late by Anne´s parents standards) at a great bar called Mamas and Tapas was followed by copious alcohol. Things turned messy when the tequila slammers arrived on the table (also not your average UK 25ml shot - at least a quad!). back to the hostal at 6am with instructions that we were getting the bus at 10am the following morning.
Needless to say that didn´t happen and at 3pm we eventually set off further south. Should of had good views of three volcanoes but it was still raining and the cloud was down and there was no chance of seeing anything except the inside of the bus. We stayed in Valdivia and had a rather uneventful night
Hot springs
Soaking in clear volcanic waters in the rain whilst enjoying an odd glass or two of vino of recovery (only a few beers).
Further south the following day we arrived in Puerto Montt one of largest salmon farming areas in the world. Anne had a weird dish with lots of mussels and meat. James had salmon (was ok but nothing compared to wild Icelandic salmon - think he has been spoiled).
Drove to Puerto Varas to another lovely hostel - sharing a room with Hannah and Ben. Had a massive dinner cooked by our guide. Played cards and drank more! Unfortunately were kicked out of the hostel at midnight after making too much noise. Went to a lovely pub prior to returning at around 4am. Another early start and we started our long drive back up north. Again a rather uneventful day driving through the rain arriving at Salto del Laja - a large waterfall (similar height to Niagra but without the tourists). This was our last night on the road and we stayed in another nice wooden cabin which due to a raging storm felt as if the roof was ready to blow off. The waterfall at least was spectacular thanks to the 7 previous days of rain.
After a final stop at
Salta el Laja
A big waterfall with much water!! a winery for a tour and tasting we arrived back to a rainy Santiago and said thanks and bye to our driver and guide. After a small meal and few farewell drinks to Hannah and Ben (going to New Zealand) we went to bed for recovery.
Our next plan was to catch a bus over to Mendoza in Argentina. Unfortuantely after all the rain the pass which goes upto 3000m over the Andes was blocked with snow. After much delibirating and reorganising our whole trip (involved a 3000km detour) they decided to open the pass the following morning. After further umming and ahing at the bus station we eventually managed to get on a bus to Mendoza and went over the stunning pass. Spent two freezing hours at the land border crossing and eventually made it to Mendoza around 10pm. A nice guy at the bus station invited us to his B&B which turned out to be nice and cheap. The annoying thing in Argentina is that people only go out for their evening meal after 10.30 at night. However after a big steak and a good bottle of vino tinto James was happy.
Neither of us could
The full group
John, Lou and Ben in a line from the top. Then Ashling, John, Hannah, Jorge, James and Anne sleep well after having a great big meal sitting on your stomach at midnight. A few relaxing days in Mendoza was enough and we headed back up into the Andes to Puente del Inca at 2700m only 20km from the Chile border. There was loads of snow and a gigantic sulphur bridge spanning some old hot springs. Our plan was to camp in the Aconcagua (the highest mountain in the world outside the Himalayas) national park but the police wouldn´t let us (next time I won´t ask). Although we did manage to do some nice walks in deep snow up the valley (ideally would have been better with snow shoes or skies).
We are now back in Mendoza which went mad yesterday after the 6-0 win over Serbia. From how they are acting you would think that they have just won the bloody thing. Will be a different matter when they come across England in the final - there will be only two smiles then in Argentina.
We are heading to Buenos Aires tonight on a first class bus which have seats which lie completely flat!
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Poowie
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Good for a giggle
Am very impressed with this blog made me giggle numerous times esp james in the snow upto his waist! Hehe! xxxxxxx Ps am surprised your livers are still intact!