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Baby Bunting.
Most of the babies are carried like this. Before even stepping foot on Laos soil we had enough to think about. Having booked a flight from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang we were forced to fly on Laos Airlines (the only operator that flies that route). The reason we had a lot to think about was due to Laos Airlines unwillingness to publish their safety records and their less than solid history.
I have only ever got on to one plane smaller than the one we flew to Laos in (that was in NZ when i did a sky dive and the plane we went up in carried about ten people). I was hoping (but not expecting) to see a much bigger plane than we did when we got to Chiang Mai airport. Both Helen and I gulped in unison.
It was a tiny plane with only two seats either side of the aisle and about 25 rows. It didn't put our minds at ease. Everything was going fine when we were up in the air - although you could feel every movement and every turn (if the pilot sneezed, we would feel it!). Half way through the flight a storm decided to pay us a visit
On top of the world
It took us an hour to trek to the top of this waterfall, but it was well worth it. - things weren't going to plan. We thought we might end up having to turn around but thankfully we were able to land. The flight was only an hour long but by the end it felt like a whole day.
It was certainly strange seeing Luang Prabang for the first time. I have heard lots of excellent reviews from friends and fellow travellers and both Helen and my expectations were high - Laos had a lot to live up to.
The first thing that struck me was how quiet it was. Thailand is busy day and night. There are always cars and bikes whizzing past you, people chasing you down to ride in their Tuk Tuk, shop workers screaming "You buy something" at every corner, but Laos... it was as quiet as a mouse.
The roads were empty, the shop workers - they were asleep! If you stepped into 50 different buildings (shops, hostels, travel agencies) i would say that you would find half of the staff fast asleep either on a bench, a bed or even the floor. It is a sleep orientated culture. I couldn't believe the pace. Both Helen and I immediately began to
relax.
I must admit i was a little dissapointed when i first saw Luang Prabang. It was simply too pretty, too clean, too sophisticated. It was like being in europe. I know what you are thinking - you are wondering why i would dissapointed? Well... we didn't want to see europe! We wanted to see asia. Every building on the main street in Luang Prabang was geared up for tourism. Hostel, restaurant, travel agent. Hostel, restaurant, travel agent... they were everywhere.
I was expecting something much more primitive. After all Laos is supposed to be one of the poorest countries in the world. I guess i should have been happy. The restaurants were nicer than those at home, the hostels were like three star hotels, it was just all so clean and pretty and safe. BORING!
We had been in Asia for about three months when we got to Laos. I had learned to love the dirt and the grime, the fire hazards, the power cables running along the road at head height, the huge pot holes and open sewers... I was loving the hustle and bustle, the crazy culture, the way that no one knew how
Us again.
Helen thinks she looks like a ventriloquist's dummy in this picture. to move unless they had a motorcycle attached to their legs... Laos was like France! And i can go to France anytime!
However, it was beautiful. Giant mountains in the distance, little arthouse coffee shops, everything oozed class and culture. The buildings were beautiful, a great example of French architecture. Everything was just so lovely. I must say our favourite place to eat was a little bakery called Joma's. There was one in Luang Prabang and one in Vientiane. It was even nice enough to get us up 45 minutes early each morning so that we could have breakfast there.
After a few days we found the answer. We rented bikes. It took only about five minutes and we had cycled out into the local villages. THIS WAS REAL LAOS. And that's what we had come to see. I stopped by the side of the road to have a drink and before i knew it, six young lads came out from the bushes and started to walk towards me.
At this point i thought two things. A. Oh dear, i am going to be killed by a group of Laos Terrorists. B. How nice, some local people
Kids of Laos
We were not sure what they were drinking but it certainly made them squint. to talk to.
Luckily it was B.
We stopped off at a little shop where we paid for two pepsi's. They were served up in plastic bags full with ice! What a funny way to serve up pepsi we thought. Helen didn't think it was funny when i was trying to prick her bag with my keys though.
All of Laos was like this. Once we were dropped off in the towns we had to rent a bike, or book a tour to see the real Laos. And when we did this we were thrilled. 'Real Laos' is beautiful. One of the most beautiful countries we have been to. 'Tourist Laos' was full of 18 year old posh english girls out on daddies money getting drunk 24 hours of the day.
One of the best journeys we went on consisted of a 9 hour boat journey sitting on a boat only a metre wide and about five metres long. We were rammed in with another twelve people. It was by far the most uncomfortable nine hours i have ever experienced but the sights and the little Laos village we stopped at was by far worth the
Over the edge
I captured this picture by leaning over the edge of the waterfall. Helen was pretty nervous (more about the camera falling over the edge than me falling). trip.
People travelling through Asia often say Laos was their highlight. But as i write this we are half way through Vietnam which has blown all the other countries out of the water! Before Vietnam i would still say Cambodia was the real Highlight for me (i think Helen would agree with me). Because Cambodia was REAL no matter where you were. Laos was only real when you took a boat, or a kayak, or a bike away from the tourist trail. And sometimes this was a bit of drag.
However, if you ever were planning to go on a holiday, Laos is the place to come. The restaurants are gorgeous, the sights are amazing... everything is clean and safe and comfortable.
Give me cockroaches and rats anyday! Well, at least for the next few weeks until we leave South East Asia...
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lesley
non-member comment
WOW!!
What amazing photos. I almost feel I'm there with you! (wish I was and not marking SATs papers!!!!). I love the idea of Helen being a ventriloquests dummy! (I don't think so Sam!) Can't wait for the next blog.