The Path of Travelers

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Tuesday January 18th, 2010

Position: 24 46.24 N
112 15.44 W
Location: Bahia Santa Maria
Time: 1520 EST
Heading: N/A
Boat Speed: 0 knts
Wind Speed: 15 knts
Wind Direction: 260 magnetic
Sea State: 0 meter Sail Status: At Anchor

Comments: I smile everytime the orange pants fishermen wearing their warm hats (or Balaclavas I am told) hoot loudly, smile and wave. They have fishing cages stacked at the bow of their panga or the fins of sharks bounce in rhythm with them as they speed past. Why I smile is not only a reflection of their smile, but the fact that we are back in areas where we are simply accepted as fellow humans traveling. They are eager to share stories or smiles or help you with directions if you need and they treat you as another nice person who just is traveling through their backyard which they are so proud of. During our sail through the fog today, I was seated at the bow watching sea lions dip in the glassy seas, cormorants look at us in alarm as we head past .. the dip and dive into the dark green water. Pelicans silently part the fog as their battalion glides silently by. A shrimp boat putt putt puttered past and a door flies open with a wave and a yell which we couldn't make out. We think he was warning us of all of his buddies fishing where we were headed... (we had already noticed due to our radar which we love so dearly in these conditions) . As I sat there, chilled by the fog, I realized that I catagorize different locations and people like a trail. You've seen them... the hikes where the trail has etched a deep path through an area. When we see this, it says a lot about the experience we are about to have...we know that the wildlife is probably not quite as abundant as what is "normal" and the wildlife we do see will have altered behavior because they are either used to humans or they have learned to deal with humans or avoid them. It is altered behavior. A deep path also means that we may see the wrapper or cigarette butt that someone before us didn't take out with them or it may mean that the plant life around this area is a bit different because there is more light, more footsteps ... it will look different.

As we travel to various locations, I found that people in different areas also react to visitors or "hikers". Of course this is normal but depending on the type and amount of traffic, each area can be either more prestine or more altered. How locals react to us seems to depend on how deep that path has been worn by travelers before us. In Cabo, the path is deep and we are simply treated in a way that they think we want to be treated. We walk into a restaurant and suddenly we are hearing blasting american pop music. I never understood this before, thinking... if I wanted American food and American music and American styled menus.. why would I be traveling? But then I have seen others travel and now I understand. I see their expectations, reactions and demands and I see how they are met. The forest changes around them as they create a deeper path. They are a source of income, and everything changes. Not only little things like food, menus, service, music or the way shops are set up... but how the locals see travelers. Some resent us and after watching the behavior of some folks traveling in the past several years, I think I may resent them too. No... I definitely do resent them. The people who ask the wait staff to turn off the bull fighting behind the bar for an American program... and this man actually told the wait staff, "I am the customer... Look at your clients! Why would you put bullfighting on??" I simply thought to myself, "You rude idiot... because they are Mexican and we are in Mexico..that is why!" (though at the time I think a few other words accompanied the word "rude".😊 ) He was a nice man from California and was buying Cyrus and I a glass of wine so I felt it was probably an inopportune time to discuss the nature of travel with him. But I did wish I could have enough time with this man so I might better understand why so many can travel in such a judgmental way. My reaction to the TV if I had noticed what was on, would be to smile and excaim "Bull fighting! Tell me how this works!" and I would hope someone would explain why one dresses in fun knickers in a giant stadium dancing around an angry looking bull. Now THAT is interesting and different... I know what Monday night football is like, but with this man's scolding tone and his pleasure at having Monday night football put on the tv, I am sure the staff will see American's coming next time and put on football or baseball or tennis and the conversation about dancing bullfighters will be lost forever. It was lost for me in an instant. I resent that. Now I may never know the true passion of bullfighting I

also wish people traveling could understand how their behavior affects an area. Do they understand what message they are sending when they give out candy or coins to children? Do they understand what they are doing to a location when they throw money in the water to see the boys swim for it? Do they understand what it does to the economy of a bartering culture to refuse to barter and to pay a high price that you are aware is higher than it's worth? Because that moment a person is giving out candies like Santa, the moment when they pay that high price.. they are building a wall. This is a wall that says to everyone they encounter... "I have a lot" "I have more than you"and this makes them different. This makes them a commodity and not a human. This wall is standing long after they depart. This is the wall we bump into when we arrive in an area that has been cut deeply by the path of travelers before us. They see my American face and I am very quickly and efficiently plucked off the street and into a neat white American category.. (or at least a quite tan American category). This category is on the other side of the wall. Then you can tell by the distant look in their eye or the insincere smile... when I hear the "My Friend!" in a way that I am fully aware that not only are they not my friend, but probably are so scarred by other travellers, it would take a VERY long time for them to ever become my friend. So to travel to areas like we are in now, where the path is light or where there seems to be no path, where people are simply people and they see you as the same. It is refreshing. They offer you fish or shrimp not because you are a walking dollar sign, but because they think you might need something to eat and they have some... and they sell it. That is what they do. They don't try to give you a crazy price, but give you THE price, because it is enough for them to be able to buy more bait and a couple meals for their family. Paying a lot more not only increases the price for the next travellers but for the locals as well and this adds to the resentment.

But in the areas we are in now??? How nice to be able to see sincere smiles and laughing curious children. The kids see me and laugh at a goofy face I make or play with the bubbles I blow as I walk along a street... they do not try to sell me anything. They do not beg me for anything. They do not expect anything from me but just enjoy that I am playful... like any child. Maybe they will teach me a song or a word or a game. And they thrill from the fact they get to teach something new to someone (which is thrilling)! To play, is giving in a different way.. they are giving to me. This also doesn't alienate the parents, but they smile that I am enjoying the company of their children. When I watch people handing out sweets? I see the look in the parents eyes. You are saying "look what I can give to your children that you can't". I imagine these travellers have never been invited into a house for dinner, or for tea while the rain stops. I think I would feel strange if people did that to my kids (if I had any😊 ). I am fully aware that these are good caring people who are giving and kind. I just think they might not be aware of all of the messages they are sending with that candy, that coin or that request to change a channel.

We are now sailing along a very lightly treaded path and anchored right now at the base of an amazing mountain that has a halo of fog at the top. We are enjoying the sincere smiles and the quiet of the day. We just hope that we do our best to keep that path light and sincere for future explorers.

Right now the boys are on a path to surf. We noticed waves off of Punta Hughes on the North end of this bay... I just watched as three very excited men in wetsuits zipped over to see if they could find the next ride. I hope they do.

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Photos

Halo of Fog
After a foggy sail through the night, we arrive to a stunning bay with only a halo of fog left.

Punta Hughes
Guys heading out to find surf... and surf they did find!

Comments

[Greg (Dad)]

enjoy your blog. Also understand having experienced similar situations. But as I've travelled in other countries, where I am the foreigener, I have always tried to take the path least travelled. I've tried, but not always, to stay away from the "tourist" attractions, optimng to travel among the people. And i have met some amazing people who I never would have experienced and who in their own way enriched my life.