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Published: June 12th 2006
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Last night I went out for a few drinks with another English, James, who turned up in my dorm. Decided to revisit Rappongi, and chose what turned out to be a quiet (that would be an understatement) night in the so called party district. He told me of his plans to visit the Tsukiji fish market the next day (this market supplies over 90 percent of Tokyo's restaurants), something I have wanted to do since my arrival but not yet managed as it involves a very early start (the main tuna auction kicks off at 5am). I half-heartedly agreed to a 5am start to check it out, as its only a few stops down the line from Minowa, and the first train is just before 5:30. Surprisingly, I did actually wake up at five when he started rustling about getting ready to leave, so I decided not to spend any time mulling it over or I would just go back to sleep !! Out the door at ten past five, and standing at the Minowa subway entrance at twenty past as the shutters rolled up. A short, bleary-eyed tube ride later, we were at Tsukiji, and a five minute walk saw
Tokyo Metro 5:21
Note the painful realisation on my face that there really is a 5:21 in the morning as well... us to the market before six.
It is a serious hive of activity to stumble into at such an early hour. Japanese fishermen eyeing up each others catch as they patrol the crowded stalls in wellington boots, small forklift trucks loaded with the mornings catch careering through the tiny aisles, and knife-wielding old men expertly gutting, slicing, and hacking up the neverending supply of fresh fish. Most of it was recognisable, but some of what I assumed to be crustaceans were like nothing I have seen before, or too large to seem possible ! Similarly the tuna were immense, some of them must have weighed a good 200lbs !
Strangely, you work up a real appetite, despite the hearly hour and the gruesomely entertaining sights of trays full of fish heads, all still gasping and twitching, despite having no body attached. So, it had to be a sushi breakfast at the market prepared from fish so fresh they could probably bite back. The best bet, suggested by a friendly local at the sushi bar, was the set menu. This changes on a daily basis, depending on what the best seafoods are on the particular morning. At over fifteen
Tsukiji fish market
The aisles like this just go on and on. There must be hundreds of them. quid for a sushi breakfast it is not cheap, but this is where the owners of the Tokyo sushi restaurants come to eat, meaning it is probably about the best place to eat sushi in Japan, and most likely the whole world. The fish could not have been any fresher, nor more expertly prepared. The friendly local was somewhat of a sushi enthusiast and filled us in on what is involved to be a sushi chef here. Basically, for your first three years of training, you go to the market to learn how to choose the best ingredients to make the finest sushi. After this, you must spend one year learning to cook the rice, apparently an integral and often underestimated part of the sushi that if not prepared correctly will ruin the taste. After this, you must spend a further six months training to cook egg. A sugared, egg sushi is eaten at the end of your meal. Now, you may begin your training with the fish !! You could qualify as a doctor in the time spent before these guys can even touch the fish ! Needless to say, it tasted really good (with the exception of sea-urchin,
which is apparently an acquired taste!), and I have no doubt that the old man slapping our sushi onto the counter faster than we could eat it, could have prepared you world-class sushi literally blindfolded.
Filled with our raw fish breakfasts, we headed off to Odaiba to walk the Rainbow Bridge. Odaiba is a small collection of man-made islands, reclaimed from the harbour and constructed into a self-contained business and entertainment zone. It was only a ten minute trip from Tsukiji on the Tokyo monorail, getting out out at Daiba station and emerging on the promenade of an entertainment complex. Bizarrely, the place was deserted, and as we passed the Fuji building towards the edge of the promenade to get a good photo of Rainbow Bridge, we were confronted with an even more bizarre sight. At the edge of the water, with her back to the harbour, stands a replica of the Statue of Liberty ! Apparently, Rainbow Bridge was based upon Brooklyn Bridge, so I don't know if this connection has anything to do with it, but it was entirely unexpected !
Ambling over to the pedestrian walkway across Rainbow Bridge, we arrived coincidentally at nine, which,
Fish !
Scary red fish, with boggly eyes. If anyone knows what these are, let me know !! unknown to us was opening time. The guard popped his head out, glanced at his watch, and opened up the gates so we could cross. It felt like a long walk, longer than it looks from the harbour, but then the 5am start was probably taking it's toll ! Some great views across the harbour, and thankfully, a lift at the other end to save walking down the huge slope that curves back down to Shiodome on the other side. After this, it was just a case of finding the water-bus at Hinode, which runs straight up the river back to Asakusa.
A nifty shortcut through the docks, ignoring the signs saying "No Entry! By order of the Japanese Port Authority." and we arrived at Hinode. Luck was on our side again, as we had no idea what time the service starts, but turns out it was 10am and we got there at 9:57 ! A scenic and relaxing boat ride was probably the best way to get back after the early start. It terminates at Asakusa, just up the road from the hostel, so home before lunchtime and a good chance to get some well deserved rest !!
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Gavin
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Best photos yet
Adam, first thing I do every morning when I get to work is check your blog. Always good, but these photos are best yet.