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Published: December 1st 2010
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It feels like ages since the last blog, probably because of the huge distance we’ve travelled and how we’ve settled in a town so different from anywhere we’ve been before. We’ve been staying in Darjeeling, located in the foothills of the Himalayas, right next to Nepal. The views are spectacular, especially when they’re not covered in cloud, the temperature is chilly (although sunny during the day) several tops, coats and blankets are worn in the evenings and, thanks to a friend, we’ve discovered Honey Bee Brandy which keeps you nice and toasty too. One of the reasons we chose to visit Darjeeling is because my Mum went to school here, an international boarding school called Mount Hermon.
We spent our first day drinking tea and sorting out our Indian mobile. We also met up with my Mum’s friend, Pratap, who also went to Mount Hermon. He kindly offered to put us up for a few days and show us the sights of Darjeeling. The following day he took us to Lebong, a small village located 1000m downhill from Darjeeling. Pratap is the founder of BSMI, an institute schooling around 300 pupils with around 20 boarders, this is where he lives
Mumbai airport
With individual booths for ladies to get the wand treatment. and where we stayed for three nights.
Lebong is set on the side of a hill next to a beautiful tea garden. On our second day at BSMI we took a half hour walk through the garden, visiting Pratap’s Aunty along the way, and made our way to Bannockburn Tea Estate factory. The factory isn’t open to visitors usually and so we were treated to our very own private tour. Luckily the factory was operational at the time with the rolling machines, drying machines and, my favourite, the Pucca Tea Sorter shaking and sorting through the different grades of tea leaves. Steve and I took the long route back passing through the tea gardens with ladies picking tea leaves, filling the baskets on their backs.
That evening the children at BSMI kindly put on a ‘cultural show’ for us. We had front row seats, served with lovely cups of tea and treated to singing and dancing. Even when the usual evening power cut came they continued under torch light. We felt totally spoilt, as we did during our entire visit there. We were brought tea each morning just before being called for breakfast. Mid morning tea was served
in our room, with lunch in the dining area. Afternoon tea was served at 3pm in our room, a tray with nibbles and brandy at around 6ish and dinner at 8pm. Now this is a way of life one could get very used to.
Pratap explained that during the following day there was going to be a ‘meeting’ in Darjeeling town and so the roads would be impassable, our plan to visit Tiger Hill for sunrise was not going to happen. We decided that we would walk it instead, a steady 18km each way. We set off before 8am the next morning and walked up and up and up and up to Darjeeling - that first hour was the toughest part of the whole trip. From there we walked out of town through a couple of villages seeing people doing their washing and cleaning dishes using the springs on the side of the road. Kids too shy to come up to us but shouting ‘Hello! Where you from?’. It was a lovely walk, shame about the clouds that were hiding Kanchenjunga (the third highest peak in the world). Once at the top the clouds were so thick we could
hardly see each other, let alone Everest which can be visible from here. Never mind. We walked down to Jorebunglow and jumped in a jeep back to Darjeeling (well, we had already walked 22km!), had a lovely nosh up in a small café and then walked the steep decent back to BSMI.
Monday, we packed our bags ready to leave BSMI and to check in to a hotel run by one of Pratap’s friends. On the way we visited Mount Hermon School. A big old stone building in rambling grounds with courts, playing fields and swimming pool. The views were spectacular of the surrounding hills, on a clear day you can see the mountains in the distance. It’s a lovely thought that my Mum lived here when she was younger and now we’re walking down the same corridors and going through the same door ways, all the way over in Darjeeling, India.
Our bedtime has become so early here that most nights we’re asleep by 9pm, it seems the norm here. People are up at 5am when the clock tower dongs it’s chimes and then the low chanting starts that echoes through the town. This morning we got
up at 5am to see the sun rise over Kanchenjunga, walked about 20mins to the view point passing early morning joggers and people crossed legged on benches do strange body popping yoga. The sun was no doubt in the sky but we couldn’t see it, let alone the beautiful mountains behind. It’s not all been lost, we have seen them pop out of the clouds a couple of times. Truly breathtaking.
Yesterday we went on the world heritage Joy Train (a mini trip of the Toy Train route), going from Darjeeling to Ghum, the highest station in India. The train is an old fashioned type of steam train; a real experience and part of the route that my grandparents took 40 odd years ago. Pretty cool.
Darjeeling is confusing and hectic and has some very strange smells (not always pleasant), but it has a charm that is complimented by the fabulous setting. Most of the hotels and restaurants we’ve visited seem like they are stuck in some 70s time warp, but the range of excellent Indian food is vast, if only we knew what half of it was. Curry for breakfast anyone? A favourite - the endless shots
of tea you can have at any time - so sweet it’s like having a desert and provides much needed warmth.
Tomorrow we’re off to Mumbai for a night and then down to Goa where we’ll be meeting up with Ma and Pa Lee. It’s been a while! :O)
Lots of Aloo Dum & Love
S&S
XXXX
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Joan
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How wonderful that you are where Rose was at school; it looks so beautiful. You should pleased you're not here at the moment with the low temperatures! Have a great time with your parents. See you soon! Stay safe & lots of lovex