The Killing Fields

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Sometimes travelling is about more than beaches and good times. Today was certainly one of those days. Today was a harrowing, distressing day, but it was also an important day. You can't visit Cambodia without trying to understand its terrible past. Today we visited a killing field and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.

Some people may find the following distressing.

Between 1975 and 1979, Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge devastated Cambodia. It's estimated the Khmer Rouge regime was responsible for the deaths of approximately 1.7 million people by execution, starvation and forced labor. Pol Pot had a vision to recreate Cambodia an agrarian (rural) country. The cities were evacuated, factories and schools were closed, and currency and private property was abolished. Anyone believed to be an intellectual was killed. Skilled workers were killed, in addition to anyone caught in possession of eyeglasses, a wristwatch, or any other modern technology. Usually a whole family - women and children included, would be killed. The Khmer Rouge regime worried that children might take revenge in future years.

Our first stop was Choeung Ek, 15 kilometres from Phnom Penh. This is Cambodia's best known killing field. Around 17,000 people were murdered at this site alone. There were many such sites across Cambodia. To save bullets, most people were bludgeoned to death. Their bodies were dumped into pits - most of which have been excavated since. As we walked around we could see many such pits. All around the area you could see bone fragments in the soil. Clothing could also be seen where the rain has washed away the soil. A monument has been built to remember the people who died at this place. Glass cases contain the skulls and bones of nearly 8000 of the victims. Pretty moving stuff.

The worst part of the day was seeing the 'killing tree'. Babies were held by their feet and swung against the tree until they died. Their bodies were then thrown into the pits nearby. If this isn't inhuman enough a thought, many of the killers were themselves children.

Many of the tourists took photos. I couldn't bring myself to do the same. I found this immensely distasteful. Seeing tourists posing for photos with a smile on their face was a low point for me on this trip.

After Choeung Ek , we went to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, also known as S21. The Khmer Rouge turned a Phnom Penh school into an interrogation and extermination centre. The aim of the centre was to either 're-educate' people, or to gain confessions by way of torture. The classrooms were converted into cells and interrogation rooms. The outside of the buildings were covered in barbed wire so people were unable to kill themselves by jumping from the balconies.

Today each room contains photos of many victims, plus stories from victims and the guards. I found it fascinating and distressing in equal amounts. Seeing so many faces made it hit home so much harder. Over 16,000 people were tortured and eventually killed here or at one of the nearby killing fields. In most cases the torturers were children aged 10 to 15.

Neither Lou or myself particularly wanted to visit either site, but we knew we had to. We almost felt it was our responsibility to go. I personally found it very upsetting and it's something I will never forget. After visiting it makes the wonderfully warm, kind and friendly nature of the Cambodian people even more amazing. They've been through hell, most still live in poverty, and they still seem happier than most westerners. We could all learn something from these people.

Next we move on to Siem Reap where we will be visiting the (unoffical) 8th wonder of the world - Angkor Wat.

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Comments

[Scott and Kristy]

Not sure if you guys have heard about the book "First they killed my father" by Loung Ung (she wrote a follow up as well called "Lucky Child") If you guys are interested more in what happened from someone who was there for the whole thing she writes an amazing tale. It's a bit hard to take but very informative and gives you more insight into what the people really went through. We both... I don't want to say enjoyed but am finding a lack of wording for this... we found it hard to put the book down. I would suggest reading one if not both of them! super easy to find in Cambodia as well!! Hope you guys are having a good time in Cambodia besides the hard parts!! Kristy

[Amy]

Thanks for the insight
Hi Chris and Lou, I had no idea about the history, and I agree you should have gone. I am with you about the pictures too. Hope you're both well xxx