Buffalo Sacrifices in Tana Toraja

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June 22, 2010 Tana Toraja.

Little Warning: Pictures are Quite Bloody. So, don’t look if you get queasy. I put the harder ones to take at the end.

I don’t even know how to process this day. We traveled nine long hours to get to this area that is simply stunning: mountains alongside rice paddies, unique boat-like architecture, and smiling faces always ready with a “Hello Mister!” Supposedly, the people here are a bit obsessed with death, and we heard that they work to provide these elaborate funerals that last for days and take a year to plan. In the meantime, the recently deceased remains in the family house, and you have to be sure to say hello or goodbye to the deceased each time you enter the house. All of this ended up being true.

We hired a guide who took us to a funeral that was entering its third day. We were welcomed warmly (after we gave some gifts of a box of cigarettes and candies for children) and invited to eat lunch with them, which was fresh buffalo, rice, cake, and hot tea. Next, we witnessed the sacrifice of five buffalo which alone cost the family about 80,000 US dollars. After the third buffalo, Adam looked at me and said, “You’re handling all this better than I thought you would.”

“I just keep telling myself that at least all of this will be eaten.”

He laughed and said, “Yeah, well, I’m having a hard time, I can tell you that.”

I'll just let the pictures tell the tale.


Tips for travelers:
*We would heartily recommend a guide for the first day and then to go it your own the following. Without the guide, we wouldn’t have understood what we were seeing and wouldn’t have experienced such an eventful funeral. He knew exactly which day and at what time everything was supposed to happen, so we ended up going exactly for what interested us the most. His name is Nikolai and you can book him through the hotel where we stayed: Duta 88. He speaks great English and is also good at picking up subtlety.

*By the way, Duta 88 is way overpriced, and that's saying a lot for a room that costs $20 US. Cute on the outside, but not so on the inside. The owner was kind as could be, but they don't change the sheets. Go for Pia Poppy's. Rooms there look great.

*The trip from Makassar was rough. The buses leave either early in the morning or late at night (8 pm and 11 pm). Since we didn’t get our passports back from immigration (see next note) until noon, we were presented with the dilemma of when to go. We opted for a car that cost $20 US each that left immediately. This was one of the most uncomfortable 9 hours because the guy piled in 11 people with folks halfway sitting on each other’s laps. We all started yelling no more when he tried for a twelfth. I don’t mind piling in for a little while, but on a long trip, ugh. It was hot, smelly (a few smoked), and achy.

*We renewed our visa stay in Makassar. It took about three days and was not that streamlined. I mean, the filing cabinet was a fridge. And to photocopy anything you had to walk out of the building and pay. Maybe a busier tourist area like Bali would have been easier? Also, dress conservatively here. It will make it all easier.

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Photos

Typical Houses from Tana Toraja
This area has very distinctive housing styles. The shape is reminiscent of a boat that reflects how the first ancestors arrived. It is also in the shape of buffalo horns--which reflects how one will leave this earth since you are accompanied by buffalo spirits to heaven.

Close-Up of the Details on the House
Each house is elaborately carved and painted with clay. Black signifies death, yellow courage, white virtue, and red luck.

Walking onto the Funeral Scene
So, we were walking along to get to the funeral, turn a bend, and here it all begins. Fresh pig innards right there.

The Body
All of these structures are built for the funeral: the seating areas and this structure where the body is kept. It is draped in red fabric.

Processional at Funeral
One of many.

Lunch at the Funeral
I loved these little folded papers that make for plates. They gave us rice, fresh buffalo, tea, and Cake.

Here the Sacrifices Begin
The first buffalo is brought down by this boy.

Sweet Ladies at the Funeral
They were so warm and welcoming with us.

First Cut
The reason behind the sacrifices is that the spirit of the buffalo will accompany the deceased to heaven. The meat is then used to feel everyone present. Our funeral had about 1,000 family and friends there. And then us.

Refusing to Go
It was hard to see this one continue to stand up after each slice to the neck.

Next Buffalo Sacrifice
Don't forget how much money these buffalo cost--in the thousands.

Comments

[mama jean]

farm life/funeral
Suppose all the people took the killing in stride. I have watched chickens being killed on a farm as a child, but was sent to the house when they killed hogs. To me it was a good thing the meat wasn't wasted and hopefully the buffalos had a good life. The smells might have bothered me... Wonderful trip for you and happy for you.

[Tim Morrill]

Dead Buffaloe
Nice pictures. See the buffaloe being sacrificed reminded me that the animals actually die when we eat them. You don't see the killing when you buy the meat in a grocery store! It's a good lesson for city folk. Thanks for posting your great photographs and stories!

[Tim Morrill]

Similarity
Those houses resemble the ones I saw on Nias, Samosir Island Lake Toba, and Sumba Island. It seems surprising to me that there would be such similarity over such a wide area.