Gem of Laos

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Luang Prabang

The bar was set high after Luang Prabang. As I'm editing this after spending time in 4 other Lao cities, I can now say without reservation that LP is very unique. This atmosphere was incredibly different from anywhere else I've been thus far. It was small, though for Laos it's a decent size, clean, and in low-season, very roomy. Tons of guesthouses from just a few dollars to posh hotels for several hundred, yet on the low-end some great deals can be found, especially when there's less demand. Many keepers offer reduced prices outright, others can be persuaded. I paid the very least here for the nicest room I booked in Laos - share a room and it's even better.

The town has a beachy feel, though the only water nearby is two silty rivers that don't offer much in terms of activity. Even I had an easy time really kicking back here - everything moves at 1/2 speed. Late mornings, luxurious breakfasts, small bits of activity (dodging some intense midday sun), chill evenings at one of a dozen cool bars, some riverside, some central. There are only two places licensed for dancing here, and due to a midnight gov't curfew, all establishments close up shop at 11:30pm, so it's not a nightlife destination. But with just a few people around and cloudless starry nights, it matters little, especially with Vang Vieng the next stop for most southbound travelers. World Cup is in full swing now and there were a lot of big screens and outdoor projectors setup so travelers could get together and cheer on their teams.

One of our favorites was Utopia, which featured a distinctly western-inspired floorplan featuring a well-lit night volleyball court, small tables scattered throughout a cozy courtyard, and an all-bamboo deck on stilts overlooking the river. Nice sunsets, stargazing, and remarkably affordable for how nice the decor and service are.

Nightmarket

One really nice aspect of LP is the night market, featuring a wide array of well-made handcrafts in a no-pressure sales environment. It gets set up and broken down with incredible speed every night, and I have a couple of suggestions in how to approach:

1) Take a lap of everything before you get in the purchasing mode.
2) Remember that the number and type of vendors differ each night, and not necessarily bc of weekends.
3) Even with tents, rain does deter vendors, specifically those marketing paper and fabric products.
4) Despite what your guidebook says about the prices being "more fixed" here than elsewhere in SEA, do attempt to bargain everything. *Caveat - everything you truly intend to purchase. Show some respect.
5) Do get dinner at least once in the night market stalls. There are huge numbers of vendors down this alley next to my nice guesthouse photo. We did veggie to be on the safe side - fill a plate for about a buck from 8-10 options. Great meal. If street meat freaks you out, get there earlier on so it sits less. A lot of travelers do partake without incident, so give it a shot.

Waterfall

I've chased a fair number of waterfalls in my life, but the height and variety of pools of the Kouangxi Waterfall is awesome. We rented a motorbike for the 70km R/T to the falls - note this cost real money here - we bargained down to $13 for noon-6. Most places ask for $20 for 24 hours, a big step up from Vietnam travelers used to $6/day being at the high-end. 20,000 kip entrance gets you to the small pools and the big falls, as well as a peek into the Asiatic bear sanctuary (tiger pen is dormant now). These animals were rescued from poachers who apparently drain bear bile for headache elixirs - and by not too humane a procedure either, and there are more effective treatments anyway.

The real prize though, is a high pool well above the big waterfall. Climb the wooden stairs up over the rushing water and look for the "Do Not Swimming Area" sign. Gotta love the translations. Keep following up past the waterfall. Amazingly, in an area I would have though to be deadly from slippery algae, the grip is great, so just keep your weight low and you'll be golden. Might want to go barefoot if you don't have good sandals - no flip-flops.

The pool is at least 10 feet in the middle, so you can do some nice jumps/dives from the side. But not everywhere. There are some spots where you could wreck yourself on some shallow rocks. So check it out first, unless you're really risk-driven, like this crazy Aussie guy who did a half-gainer into the pool 6 inches from disaster. idiot.

I didn't have my camera, but a friend got some good shots, including a fun one of some child monks getting into the action as well.

Wots

There is quite a variety of wots in LP. The oldest we saw was built in the 1500s, and it looked it (I wouldn't recommend) but a lot are newer and/or well-preserved. Lots of mosaicy mirror tiles make the glass sparkle in the bright sunlight. Lot of these have small admission fees of 20,000 kip. But there are many free as well. To do it again, I'd aim for early morning and late afternoon, as midday, especially on the elevated ones it can get toasty.

Back to School

I also set aside a day to do a 9-5 cooking class, learning traditional Lao meal preparation and ingredients. It started off with a morning market tour, explaining fruits, veggies, eggs, and animal products commonly found in meal prep. Some interesting sights and smells to be sure.

Back in the kitchen, we had cooking demos of 7 dishes. We picked several for lunch and dinner and tried our hand at the wok. Some of the dishes were first created in LP, whose trademark condiment is "Jewbob", made from fermented Buffalo skin. Apparently it's a good protein source for poorer people for whom meat is too highly priced.

Food

Food in LP is on the whole very good. Thai influence was apparent, and compared to Vietnam, the chicken and beef in meals was much more identifiable and, well, there was some. You can spend 20,000 kip ($2.5 USD) on a bowl of rice with chicken and veggies and an equal amount for a breakfast pastry or fruit shake at a ritzier western-style coffee bar. And I highly recommend both types - there are many great of each to choose from.

The best local food we found (besides night market) was to the immediate right of Lasi restaurant on the main drag - Lasi has wifi so the name of the real restaurant escapes me. Cheap good eats. Fusion sandwiches (blackened chicken w/ peppers and papaya and tuna w/ dill) at Utopia rocked (up to 45,000 kip)

Also good western pub grub at bars near hive, esp the bar with the white lights garden in my pictures. Sorry no name but there are only a few to choose from on that drag - you won't have trouble tracking it down.

Fruit shakes are a staple here, light and keep the heat off. Expect to pay 15,000+ at a nicer place and as little as 4,000 kip at the night market (aim for ones with clean blenders). Coconut mint was my personal fave.

Last Thoughts...

As I'm finishing this entry I'm zipping through Cambodia towards Phnom Penh and the disparity in a few hundred kilometers is glaringly apparent. I couldn't afford to spend any more time in LP, but would definitely encourage travelers to budget as much time there as they can spare. You won't be disappointed.

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Comments

[janel]

where r u now?
You haven't posted in a while... were are you? How is evertyhing going?