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Published: April 9th 2010
"These girls are definitely not prostitutes". With no more than these rather flimsy words of assurance I followed, accompanied by a similarly bewildered Dutchman, into the nightclub. And very nice it was too, as good as anything I've experienced in London or elsewhere, genuinely good music (no Cher here, unlike much else of SE Asia), attentive waiters topping up your drinks, a private table and s crowd of well heeled Westerners and Vietnamese. At first, still cynical about the motivations of the Vietnamese party-girls it was rather awkward and they seemed rather put out by my caution, however, after inventing a girlfriend at home "yes, very serious, maybe I marry..." to avoid offence, it all went rather well. At the end they asked us to contribute towards the bill- a not unreasonable $10 for a night's drinks (good quality too) and entry. So far so good.
This was a minor miracle. After partying in Sihanoukville I'd set off on a 12 hour monster of a bus journey to Saigon. Still suffering rather from my digestive system and itchy as anything from the appalling bites I received on the beach, this was an unpleasant journey. The coach was very pleasant but nearly empty i.e. no company. I polished off 'Vile Bodies' and 'Are You Experienced'- the latter recounting, hilariously, all the worst parts of a fictitious trip to India. I arrived in Saigon, which is exhausting in itself; feeling pretty low. I was really quite uncomfortable and hadn't barely exchanged words with anyone in about a day andhad been feeling unwell for a few more. Initially highly sceptical, but unable to politely refuse, I was utterly relieved when I was able to simply leave the club at the end of the night without further hassle- maybe the girls (who were really nice) were just looking for some people to fund their night out and any Western-boyfriend-kudos would be an extra. I was happy in the knowledge that, after a knackering day I could get back to my nice little guesthouse.
I really am a guest in someone's house, it's very nice; right next to the main drag but quiet, cheap and clean. With five rooms, it's really very good and gives a little insight to the lives of those who oil the wheels of Vietnam's tourism machine. However, the flip side is it is down an alley the width of a cupboard and, being a home; people go to bed.
Returning, somewhat tipsy (I was careful not to get too bad), having been there once before going out for 'a quiet drink', was easier said that done. After searching around a variety of nearby alleys all I could see was house after house of identical, closed, locked doors. Oh Dear. Seeing this a woman (who certainly was of dubious repute) offered to help me 'find what I was looking for' I made it quite clear it was my guesthouse. She was very helpful, quietly knocking on doors and genuinely sympathetic, however, making no progress we gave up and she suggested drinking coffee until first light when they would open. I thought this sounded a not-too-bad idea so onto her scooter I went and we went to a little street cafe with lots of other local people. However, after about 4 mouthfulls of food I felt utterly bloated and suddenly exhausted. I just wanted to go to bed.
Seeing this she suggested I checked into a hotel, I paid for her food, then for a load of petrol. Now, whilst she was helpful I by no means wanted to be dependent on her in the morning to give me a lift back to my hostel so insisted on staying very close by "but is expensive!", "no" I said, "I just want to sleep for a bit and walk back in the morning"- I was not getting drawn into any kind of reliance, one for which I knew I'd have to pay. From here it was downhill. She was obviously annoyed by this and then wondered if she could stay too I was very clear that she was not and there was not going to be "you, know, anything like that sort of business" she didn't. I had to be yet clearer. It turns out she hadn't thought there was going to be. This did not help. We got to a hotel, which charged an outrageous rate for what was going to be about 4 hours occupancy (and I'm sure included a considerable slice for her), which I paid; trying to ask to look elsewhere produced a wall of protestations and I was exhausted. Then she asked for money for 'all my time'. THis really annoyed me; I'd paid for her petrol and food (which was absolutely fine by me), she'd obviosuly steered me somewhere where she received commission and now wanted money for what I'd mistaken for kindness. I offered her some, not a lot,but reasonable given what people here earn.
It wasn't enough. At this point, after 23 hours of being awake, ill and being slightly drunk, I think I lost the plot slightly. "I've already paid for loads of stuff, I thought you were just being nice I WANT TO GO TO BED!" I may have stamped my feet. It can, I think, be categorised as 'a fuss'. Realising this I just gave her some more (it still wasn't really much) and, finally, as I'd wished, went to bed.
The next day was interesting, lots of museums and pagodas, saw some genuinely very good art, along with some pretty cringey communist stuff 'joyful farmers in fields' 'Father of the people being cheered by the workers' ad nauseum. The War Museum, also brilliant, very well curated and, like Phnom Penh, horrifying. All this was sadly a bit marred by my continuing illness and, at the end, being massively ripped off by my driver. I'm definitely being more wary now, I've had my guard down and paid for it dearly!
I was pretty down after all this and considered just getting the nex bus out of Saigon. But instead I decided I had to be a bit more proactive so went out, booked the tour I did today (of the Mekong Delta- very nice, traditional music a bit of a racket but I suppose it's good to see these things) and met some really nice people from various countries who I'm meeting up with tonight. It was a big turnaround- it's amazing how little it takes sometimes. Illness finally clearing up so all things are looking good. Going to some Viet Cong Tunnels tomorrow with some people I met today,which should be good, before, as the French used to do, heading for the hills at Dalat on Sunday to escape the heat and soak up some 'crumbling colonial chic' - good old Lonely Planet descriptions there.
Hope everyone is well, I'm once again really enjoying myself after a pretty stressful introduction to Vietnam, which is now looking like it's going to be the best country yet!
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mary lam
non-member comment
beware vietnamese bearing gifts
Good blog.....loved the nightclub description. Everyone is out to fleece you keep that in mind and you wont go far wrong. Sounds like you're having a blast, keep up the flow of info. Love from all in Farnham road