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Published: March 30th 2010
I've got an afternoon to kill so it seems a good time for a spot of blogging. I'm now in Siem Reap in Cambodia. This city has grown up almost entirely thanks to the nearby temples collectively known as Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat is in fact simply one (albeit the grandest) of over 100 temples and archealogical sites spread over a huge area, although most of the best ones are accessible via a 17km 'Grand Route'. They were built between about 850-1250 and really are worth the hype. The first two days I went via a tuk-tuk to most of the main sites and today I hired a bike and rode before dawn to watch the sunrise over Angkor Wat (sunrises and sunsets are the most dramatic time to see them).
I set off on my Miss Marple bike, which lacked gears and working lights but did have a bell (which pinged at the slightest bump) and jolly blue wicker basket on the front. Being before dawn it was still dark and I cleverly took an alternative route to Angkor; one with no street lights; or other cars. It was then I discovered the lights didn't work. Fortunately I had my head-torch (thanks Alie, most useful present EVER) so, almost soiling myself at the least jolt or noise, I headed on to the temples. This section was actually better than the city, which was genuinely terrifying. At least in Thailand, even if they go the wrong way up the road all the cars are going the same wrong way. Here driving is simply the art of the possible and at one point I faced a 4x4 coming the wrong way down a cycle lane. It was worth it as cycling around was brilliant and allowed my to go where I liked, unhassled by tuk-tuks, which meant I could stop off and get really close to some monkeys, which was really cool.
The sunrise wasn't actually that great but, realising this I decided to head into the temple while it was still a bit dark. This was a stroke of genius; for about 20 minutes I didn't see another tourist, it was just me, Buddha and the geckoes. The beauty of Angkor, something which in the long term will prove a real problem, is that unless an area is actually unsafe or being worked on you can go where-ever you like, no barriers, no proscribed routes. The exquisite carvings are right before your eyes; it's a real temptation to touch them, though of course you mustn't.
One of the most confusing things here is currency. The official currency in Riel (4000 to the US Dollar) but people prefer $ and accept baht and transactions can include all 3, e.g. I paid for my room in dollars and baht (because he wouldn't accept a large denomination dollar bill?!) and received change in baht. I've given up trying to work out what any of this means in pounds, my brain just can't cope with it. Also, everything costs 'one dollaaaaaaaar' 'one dollaaaaaaaar' unless you haggle.
After three days I'm pretty templed-out, I don't think I'll be able to get too excited about a 'cruciform terrace' or a 13th cetury stupa for some time now... However, it doesn't get boring because once you've stopped being amazed by them they are a brilliant place to walk, chill and climb; the collapsed boulders form a perfect playground. They are amazing; huge and beautiful, some left deliberately unrestored (though made safe) with roots thicker than dustbins pouring over the sides of the buildings like wax and prizing the rocks apart. Most have been restored very sensitively and well, which is all the more remarkable given this was done in the 1930s; the French legacy in Indochina is dubious but one must admit they did a good job in this respect.
Unfortunately I've been eaten alive by mosquitos and Cambodia isn't really as nice as Thailand; it's obviously poorer, even though Siem Reap is well off because of the tourists and, so far, everyone I've met from here has been interested only in my money. When the tuk-tuk pulls up at a temple, swarms of children surround you, selling all kinds of tat, amongst some important stuff like water. Once one starts shouting at you it sets of the others, a bit like when a furbie went off (for kids/parents of the 90s). Furthermore, the accent does make their English sound like the whining of cats, which doesn't make it very endearing; "postcard for siiiiiir?" "cold driiiiiiink?".
It is, of course because Cambodia is desperately poor and I understand that, to them I'm just another foreigner with, as far as they're concerned, an unimaginable amount of money But it's really wearing and also means that you are wary of everyone, even the ones who just want to talk to you with no agenda, which detracts from the experience. You feel sorry for them, but you just can't buy everything they want to sell and shouldn't really buy from the children at all, as it discourages them from going to school. The children are very funny and cheeky but often scarper once another tourist turns up!
The bus from Koh Chang was my first epic bus journey. I woke at 6.55 for a 7.00 bus after 3 hours sleep. After rushing t the road, panting, I waited for 2 HOURS before a minibus turned up. By the time we got to the end of the island (and missed the ferry) we had 10 people, all, like me, with masses of luggage (1 of them vomiting). I gave the vomiting Thai woman some water, which later prompted an argument between her and the Swiss man paying her to 'escort' him as to whether she should give the remnants of the bottle back- I was glad she opted to buy a whole new one. Five hours to the border, some scamming and then 4 hours the oter side plus attempted scamming and I finally got to a hotel (which is very nice and cheap) after so much palava, the people with whom I was travelling with and I gave no quarter in negotiating with the receptionist!
I shall go to the capital Phnom Penh tomorrow I think and then onwards to the coast at Sihanoukville. Besides the amazing temples I have yet to warm to Cambodia as I did so easily to Thailand so, at the moment, I don't plan to stay here long.
Hope all is well for everyone,
Gus
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annie
non-member comment
Being picky
you cannot say with whom I was travelling with, you say with whom I was travelling, ( you know Im joking) and by the way, when I was last in India, I used to see whole families of five on one motorbike...frightening. You are clearly having an amazing time, love your travel logs. Thinking of your Fergus, stay in touch Annie x