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Published: March 29th 2010
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After flying over the Nazca lines we returned to the hotel for breakfast, it was then I noticed a glass box in the corner with the remains of a young woman"s mummy inside, I don't think I'm fussy but it didn't help my appetite, We decided to dine alfresco. We had hired a guide named Hilda to take us to other sites of interest in the area.
We started with a site called Cahuachi, A huge temple in the middle of the desert, Italian archeologists are sill working on the site after 25 years and although highly impressive it would appear they have just hit the tidp of the iceberg, The temple stands 25kms from Nazca town and it is cruel terrain, the heat is oppressive and dry and there is little life, The temple is 7 tiers and it is believed this is a highly important ceremonial site for the ancient Nazca tribes, it is thought that the high king was probably in residence here, it is likely it was also a seat of government and was probably abandoned due to drought.
There are many tombs in the area made evident by the sink holes in the desert
floor, they have long since been robbed by grave robbers as the inca people traditionally buried their dead with gold silver, food and what many years later would be valuable ceramics, Human remains are scattered all over the ground as these callous thieves routinely dumbed the mummies after relieving them of their burial adornments. Its eerie to walk among the bones. Hilda told us that the Peruvian government say they have little money to protect this historically important area, The temple remains closed to visitors as the excavation continues.
We headed back passing a more modern cemetery sitting in the middle of the desert, a little village sits in a small oasis nearby and this is their modest resting place for their dead, in the distance the worlds highest stand dune stands at 2078 metros above the desert floor.
We watched as dust devils appeared all around us on the horizon some gathering impressive momentum as we turned off the main paved road and headed for the Chauchilla tombs, The site of the tombs is 7kms of the main road in a barren valley surrounded by purple mountains, when we got out of the car the heat was
overpowering, There was no-one else there but a man in a tiny booth selling tickets and an elderly gent selling Inca Kola and peanuts, we availed of both and headed towards the tombs.
They were discovered 40 years ago, there are 12 tombs each containing 3-16 remains and the surrounding area is full of the tell tale sink holes left by grave robbers. The burial ritual consisted of a bathing in oils thought to dehydrate the body, the muscles and tendons were cut and the individual's knees were pulled under the chin, cotton rope was wound around the body and then they were placed in the tomb facing east, The sun being their god to face east was a spiritual rite, Hilda told us some mummies were found facing west, most likely a punishment for wrongdoings in life. The mummies still have hair, organs, fingernails, and many still have skin, On most the skull is exposed with remaining hair, babies sit above adults and the deeper the tomb the more important the occupant that resides within, Some of the male mummies have long dreadlocks that exceeds their height, its thought this was also a sign of importance.
The
dig wound down in 1996 leaving the tombs in the open with only an awning with grass roofs, they are totally exposed to the unrelenting heat and wind. The local people refused to let any more of the tombs to be exposed as again the government cannot find the necessary money to protect them, The community want them to be inclosed in glass to protect them from the environment and security to protect them from heartless grave robbers. Unopened tombs remain you can see the unnatural rises on the desert floor and occasionally you trip on rocks which Hilda told us are probably roofs of unopened tombs, to date the local people watch the area and patrol it at night.
This area has even more human remains outside the tombs, bleached white skulls gleam in the sun and you only have to stand still and there are many bones shards and whole bones all around you, at one stage the remains of an infant sits in the middle of the path, some kindly soul has put stones around the body to stop people disturbing the remains. The mummies remained in such an intact state because of the arid conditions
and the chemicals in the sand.
Its a shame and I was left feeling that in a country that has such respect for family and its dead, that this area of such special significance has been abandoned by the powers that be.
On the way back we stopped at a little known Inca aqueduct, a spiral decent leads to a crystal clear pond teeming with little catfish, 3 channels bring the water from underground where in recent times it now leads to a reservoir that waters the crops of local somewhat desperate farmers, Water is an important god to the Nazca people 1500 years ago and it seems nothing has changed as the evidence is all around this area of failing crops and abandoned farms.
The mining companies have arrived and every few hectares another mine appears mining copper gold and silver, this is where these ex farmers now earn a living, only time will tell what the future holds for the people of Nazca
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lurpak34
barnaby davies
Dem Bones..
Hey Ursula. Thanks for the comment on my blog. It's always nice to know that somebody appreciates the effort us bloggers put in to our work! Great Peruvian photos. And a fascinating account of the mummies. I must get round to visting some time. Have fun down there.. Gotta dash - the trucks are loading up for Metallica again. Groan!!