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Published: March 23rd 2006
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Banana Slug
This ugly fellow was encountered by Sara and Jill on their hike through the ferns. It was as big as their foot! This is Sara to narrate our last 3 days in Saimapata and all our exciting travels back to La Paz. Matt woke up on the morning of March 21 feeling very under the weather with a cough sounding suspiciously like the one Jill had. He decided that it was prudent that he did not go and we both concurred. So after having another wonderful organic breakfast at our dream hostel, La Vispera, Jill and I set off to the Amboro highlands for a hike among the giant ferns. We were introduced to our spanish speaking guide "Don Gilberto" who is reasonably famous as an expert tour operator in Saimapata (aka he is in the guidebook) as well as the Israeli couple who would be accompanying us. The other guide, a German, who was leading a group of Brits and Australians repeatedly assured us of his abilities.
After an hour drive, we reached a viewpoint at 2000 m where we would start our hike. A flock of parrots flew overhead as I took pictures of the town below but they were only a flash of blue wings, green bodies and orange tails in the one picture I managed to take of
Hairy Spider
Though there was no definitive ID, this spider was as big as their hand, possibly a tarantula. them. After a grey morning with no bird action, I figured that maybe my bird luck had run out. Don Gilberto got us organized and we hopped the fence to start ahead of the much larger group of 15 people. The hike started well enough with giant ferns looming above and Don Gilberto explaining things along the way. He was a bit fast though and Jill and I had to hurry to keep up so I could not look for birds easily. The less in shape Israeli couple were often being left behind. Jill was catching most of what Don was saying though, despite his repetition, and with her translation, I felt that we were getting a decent tour. We kept walking and Don assured us that their would be a good viewpoint ahead but then he told us to wait for a minute while he checked out the trail ahead. When he got back, he explained that he did not know where we were! This was a little disconcerting, since he was our guide!! We could easily get lost in the jungle ourselves😊
We backtracked nearly to where we entered the forest at an extremely rapid pace, and
The "Volcanoes" of Amboro
This region reminds me of Zion National Park if it were stuck the rain forest, for millions of years. at one point as we turned onto the correct path, we had to ask for Don to wait for the Israeli couple so they would not choose the wrong path. He also told Jill that "this trail was not here last year". Does that mean that he did not guided this trail in a year? We eventually reached the top of the mountain with panaromic views of Amboro national park, albeit behind the group we had started in front of and with little explanation along the way. I set my pack down in a bunch of biting ants and I was feeling that today was not my day. After some pictures and worry that I might have chipped the polarizing filter on the camera, it was time to go again. The Israeli couple opted to go with the German guide because he spoke English but we decided to give Don Gilberto another chance. We told him that we were interested in seeing birds and animals and with this knowledge and an improved sense of direction, we had a wonderful afternoon among the giant ferns, huge slugs (pictures soon!), jungle vines, mixed flocks of brightly colored small birds (mostly tanagers), and
From the Garden
One of the beautiful flowers in the garden of our hostel. beautiful butterflies. We finished before the other group and discovered a walking stick and huge furry spider as we waited for the cars. The drive was beautiful down the rainforest covered mountains and I spotted an eagle along the way. We reached the hostel, picked up Matt for dinner, and had an uneventful evening.
The next morning I awoke a bit late since Matt was still having trouble with his cough and I hadnĀ“t slept that well. The gardens surrounding La Vispera were a riot of color from the bright morning sun and the birds were out like crazy. Jill spotted a golden-billed saltador just waiting for breakfast!! I saw many birds and took pictures so I could ID them later. After a hearty breakfast, we set off with the German guide from yesterday, Frank, who was a bundle of energy and enthusiasm. The drive was longer, but I slept most of the way and was envious of Jill and Matt who spotted a puffbird on the telephone line. The road was paved most of the way but the last 25 km were on a bumpy dirt road up to Laguna Volcan, a soon to be resort beside a
Two for One
Flower and butterfly, to conserve photos. Now we have only take 4999, instead of 5000! picturesque lake surrounded by volcanos. There were flocks of parrots everywhere and I spotted anis, coots, grebes, and herons. I could have stayed all afternoon but since the rest of the group (an English couple, German couple and us) wanted to hike, I grudgingly left.
The day was sunny and hot and my black rain pants (the only thing clean since our laundry was being done at the hostel) were unforgiving. However, when we got to the tick laden fields, I was glad to have them on and only one tick managed to find its way onto my back. We took a break on a rocky, grassy bluff for snacks, water and pictures of the surrounding volcanos as well as the Rio Colorado below where we would soon be hiking. We made our way down the steep red path (no switchbacks in Bolivia) and reached the river. After lunch along the river, we took our shoes off and hiked barefoot since we had to cross the river 9 times. I had forgotten my sandals and being a tenderfoot, the going was slow for me along the rocky sections. At a natural whirlpool, we stopped for a swim but the water was extremely sandy and I carried some of the river back with me. After swimming, there was a longer stretch on land before a river crossing so Jill and I opted for our footwear. However, when she tried to cross the river at the end of the section, she slipped and her camera, boots, and the lower half of her body got quite wet. The camera was a trooper though and after drying was functional again. The hike left the river and past some Bolivian houses with palm trees for roofs and could have been from the 18th century except for the plastic toys in the yards. The drive back to our hostel was quiet and we had a fun dinner with the English couple from our hike.
This morning, we packed, ate breakfast, and attempted to settle our bill at La Vispera before getting a taxi back to the Santa Cruz airport. Unfortunately, there was a bit of a mix up between the kitchen and reception and we were double charged for our pack lunches. As the taxi driver patiently waited, Matt and the secretary righted the situation, but we left for the airport just before 10 am. The drive on the way to Saimapata only took 2.5 hours but we did not arrive at the Veri Veri airport in Santa Cruz until nearly 1 pm (our flight left at 1:50) since the airport was out of town. Since there were two airports in Santa Cruz, we had confirmed with a travel agent that the correct airport for our flight was Veri Veri. However, when we looked at the departure board and the lack of personnel at the Aero Sur counter, we quickly figured out with the help of an Aero Sur employee that we were at the wrong airport. We briefly considered trying to get a later flight, but I suggested that we try to make our flight. Hardly anything in Bolivia is on time anyway, why would the Santa Cruz airport be any different? We hailed a taxi and he got us to the Termillo airport in 25 minutes. We checked our bags, paid the airport tax and were on the plane in 15 minutes, with 10 minutes to spare!!! Lucky for us, Bolivian security is extremely lax, no bag or ID checks, as long as you have a ticket, you are golden! The flight to La Paz, with a stop in Cochabamba, was uneventful and the rain had cleared the skies so the view of La Paz and the Andes was spectacular!
We are currently at an internet cafe at the travel agency and have secured bus tickets for Jill to Copacabana and Matt and I to Juliaca. Tomorrow, we separate and head our respective ways!
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John Timberlake
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Good to talk to you tonight. Give us a call or leave a blog any chance you get. Love, Dad