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Published: January 24th 2010
We had booked to take a cruise in Milford Sound from Te Anau while in QT but given the weather the night before and the fact that Milford has over 8 metres of rain every year (compared to only 0.6m in London) we were expecting a wash out...or at least a rather wet trip. So on a grey and slightly nippy morning we wrapped up in all weather gear and were picked up by Frank, the knowledgable ex-search and rescue paramedic. We now appreciate that when they say the weather in New Zealand can change drastically they are not exaggerating - it just got better and better and soon turned into a proper scorcher (the grey-skied pics were quickly deleted and replaced with these!).
Having been to Norway's fjords and taken ships through them we were not expecting to be blown away by the scenery. Impressed, yes, but surely the Sound could not be more amazing than the great fjords of Norway...Oh how wrong we were. They were quite simply stunning. From the moment we turned the corner to see the mountains open out into a great flat expanse filled by crisp, blue glacial waters we knew it would be
special. (Actually we could probably guess this from the bus journey and the stops we'd had on the way but more about them later).
The size of the mountains surrounding the Sound are just immense. Solid rock walls well over a mile high on all sides dwarf anything that comes between them especially the cruise ships and the aeroplanes that look like buzzing insects beside their bulk. This maybe makes it sound like the place was swarming with boats and people but this was far from true. In the UK such a place would be, well, like Picadilly Circus but here in NZ like most attractions you still felt like you were enjoying it on your own. No gift shop, no pay and display, not even a cafe. Wonderful.
The cruise itself lasted for 1 ½ hours with an obligatory dunk under the spray of a fantastically cold waterfall and sneak up on dozing grey fur seals but it was definitely the scenery you go for and what goes back with you when you leave.
The journey back to Te Anau was broken up by several stops at yet more jaw dropping sights and little 'nature walks'
to see glaciers, chasms and to drink from an icy fresh river.
Isn't it strange how the sun changes everything! The previous day we has concluded that Te Anau was a fairly so-so sleepy lakeside resort but suddenly it was buzzing and the locals had turned up with their canoes and campers to chill by the lake until the sun went down after 9. We put a few bangers on the communal barbie and got chatting to a nurse from Belgium who was on a 3 month holiday with his girlfriend and had walked pretty much all the 'big name' tracks in NZ. If only we had time to do some 3-day treks...next time we will have to factor a few in!
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Yvonne
non-member comment
Milford Sound
What no sandflies!! Are you going to ths Franz Joseph glacier? Have you been ambushed by a Kia yet. Carry on enjoying. Y.