PERU -Land of the Incas and Contrasts

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Our first impressions as we took the coast road were desert, and dirt, rubble and rubbish, sandy slums and squalor, the smell of chicken shit and fertilizer. We later learned to love the desert vistas and were impressed with “the greening of Peru”. It was amazing to see lush green fields and orchards, trees lining the highway and huge irrigation systems in the middle of the barren desert landscapes . A shame about the thousands of chicken coups!
Our first major stop was Huanchaco - a small fishing village - famous for its totora boats and a popular surfing destination. We found a great restaurant where Gino proceeded to take over the restaurant to cook us some italian pasta delights. We passed through Trujillo and visited the ruins of the pre Columbian city of Chan Chan and the Moche Temples. Continuing south we passed more desert landscapes with huge sand dunes and desolate bare rocky mountains in the distance.
Up to the Cordillera Negra and Blanca to Huaraz through stunning scenery and snow capped mountains which are some of the highest in South America. Then back down to the coast and towards Nazca we stopped at Huacachina, a delightful desert oasis set around a lagoon with palm trees and surrounded by high sand dunes.
Nazca: enjoyed the flight over the Nazca and Palpa lines. Real or mysterious? This was followed by a visit to Chauchilla cemetery guided by Jesus, a delightful pupil of Maria Reiche the famous German Nazca researcher.
Then up the hill again towards Cuzco: 600kms from desert country through bare rocky mountains, then green patch work fields as we ascended to 4,500 meter passes crossing the Cordillera de los Andes. Some hail and snow to make it spicy, a truck sliding towards us to make it exciting then back down into the lush valley to Abancay. Then finally back up the windy mountain roads to reach the capital city of the Inca empire nestled in the mountains and close to the famous ruins of Macchu Picchu.
Macchu Picchu was hidden in clouds as we arrived but later cleared just as in the post cards to reveal its magnificent self.
Altitude sickness has hit us both, especially Johannes and we have needed to take time to acclimatize. We therefore took the opportunity to enjoy the sites of Cuzco including its plazas, cobble stone streets, Inca walls, and its most magnificent Cathedral full of religious art works, gold, silver and wooden carvings.
We have travelled along the shores of Lake Titicaca situated at 3800 metres on the altiplano of Peru and Bolivia. Lots of little villages scattered along the lakeside. We visited the beautiful floating totora reed islands with their indigenous colorfully dressed inhabitants- the Uros people- a fascinating informative tour but highly commercialized.
We just crossed the border into Bolivia and spent Christmas in the small town of Copocabana overlooking Lago Titicaca. Today we are in La Paz, looking out of our hotel window at the magnificent snow capped Mt Illamani after surviving a hail storm on the altiplano. We are now making plans for New Years Eve and a visit to the Salar de Uyuni.

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Comments

[Deidre]

Un Ano Nuevo Prospero!
Hola amigos, the trip looks and sounds amazing and thanks for the detailed descriptions, feels as if I might have been there in the odd moment or two from the way you describe it. Have a great new year and a safe journey, off to Tierra del Fuego? See you again in Mexico eh? Love Deidre

[Peter Christoudias]

Hello from Oz
Hello beautiful people, Just thinking of you guys, I was going to wish that you are having a great time, but I don't need to I can see that you are, Enjoy and we hope to speak to you soon