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Published: December 26th 2009
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Getting into Iran was long and not easy.
We took off from Hong Kong to Mumbai and again to Dubai on a bumpy classic 777 of Cathay Pacific plane, where the turbulence made me to wait nearly 2 hours for just a cup of tea. Waiting in Dubai was another time of night mare, all the security staffs were South Indian or Bengali workers and no one knew what they were actually doing, the screening check system was totally rubbish, the airport is like a Sunday market, or simply Delhi's Parhaganj Air-Cond version, everyone was unfriendly and impolite.
The next morning that I arrived into Tehran airport, one of immigration guy reviewed every pages and stamps of my passport and looked up at me a few times, at the very first beginning he turned down my request of entering the country and almost being sent back the next flight to Dubai, he asked me whether I have contact number and address in Iran (of course I don't) so I opened my Lonely Planet under his table, and gave him whatever hotel featured on the book. He tried to call to that hotel but no one's answering the phone, so
I made up the story and said he probably went out and pick me up, and he has no mobile phone either. Finally we paid US$80, the most expensive "entrance-fees" ever and stamped us in.
The airport is huge, modern and quiet like a museum, located 50km or more from the city and it was five in the morning, so the only mean of getting in to town was taxi. We exchanged US$200 and the exchange rate was US$1 to Rial 9000, and I suddently became a millionaire. When we approaching to the arrival hall area, two Amenian or Georgian looked drivers came and asked me to hire them, next to them was the pre-paid counter like in India, so I went to the kiosk and paid the official price, fares are fixed to most common tourist areas and it's not cheap, getting into downtown costs more than US$20, so we picked up the book again, pointed out some of the featured hotels, and our old Iranain driver Michael Schumacher held his position on the motorway with his confidence and speed all the way up, I realized the speedo which indicated 140km/hr, it was freaky cold in the morning
so I covered myself with the airlines blanket which I took from my seat, and in about 45 minutes, we arrived where we wanted to go.
Finding a proper shitter in Tehran was a night mare, and cheaper bed is almost impossible, we've been knocking nearly 3 to 4 doors and either full or just closed down.
Tehran is an enormous city of 14 million people, very busy and extremely polluted. If you educated in whatever English school, brought up in an English family or watching English channels is part of your daily life, I am sure you would say that Iran is a dangerous country, but I would say it is safer than the rest of the world, except the chaotic traffics! Walking on the streets in Tehran is actually one of the most exciting things I have done in my life, crossing the roads is a life or death experience. I have been to so many big cities, and after being in Mumbai, Amman, Hanoi and even Ulaanbaatar, I was still nervous about navigating the streets in Tehran. Sidewalk is not for people but for motorbikes, cars can stop anywhere and anytime, and drivers never respect
the traffic lights, and if any space left, cars can go in any direction. Cars are bumpers to bumpers, doors to doors, so I decided to leave the cabbie and walk, but I couldn't open the door to squeeze myself out. However, you can't believe the city has large Chinese made metro syetems, the network is huge and very cheap, 3 days unlimited ride for just US$1.
The most important landmark in Tehran definitely is the former US Embassy, very large walled area, covered with Anti-US slogan like Down with US, Death to America, US The enemy to all...well, I don't hate the US and I don't like either, but I felt quite happy, and exciting of seeing this thou. The visit of Tehran Bazaar also one of the must-see place in the city.
After spending a few days in the capital of former Persian Empire, the city looks rather dull, busy and polluted. But what I impressed was the Iranian. People appraching us everywhere, greet us Salam Aleykhum in Farsi, welcoming us to Iran, taking us to the right direction. Honestly, they do not see alot of tourist in this country, usually quiet old couples from Europe,
but not the Khao Sarn type backpackers, but once they see us and confirmed we are not American (and obviously I am not), they really take good care of us. And what I have learnt from the trip, was the Iranian people, are so different from the Iranian Government.
Masalaama (All the best and gods upon you, in Farsi)
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anonymous
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Streets and traffics! you're right, the craziest one in the world. no traffic light for pedestrians or nobody pay attention to those which are existed! But easy going people are really impressive...