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Published: November 8th 2009
The Wall at Tarawasi
Recently excavated - apparently buried by the Spanish because they couldn't knock it down.The Salkantay Trail
Warning: Long entry. We're off to do the Salkantay Trail with the Mountain Lodges of Peru. This is different from the usual Inca Trail to Machu Picchu in that it approaches the city from the west. And what's more you get to stay in lodges rather than camping. Not one for the purists but our acclimatization difficulties in Cusco (alt. 3400m) have already convinced us we've made the right decision before we've started!
We'd just like to point out that a lot of the details here are actually the repackaged wisdom of our lead guide Dalmiro who together with Danny (a source of many an entertaining story) really made our trek everything we'd hoped it would be. Tim and Sue would especially like to thank Danny for looking after Sue.
Friday 30/10/09 - Day 1
We drive out from Cusco along the main highway that would lead back to Lima (in about 13 hours if we stayed on it) to stop on the roadside to have a quick stare off into the distance and have it explained to us that the white peak in the distance is, in fact, the Salkantay peak and that
on Day 3 we'll be making the climb to the pass below it, which is about 4600m above sea level. For some reason the Brits are all in one bus and the Americans and French in the other - come on, we're all friends together!
A little drive onwards takes us to a stop off near the Tarawasi archeological site, which is a recent discovery. Evidence of where the Conquistadors superimposed Spanish ways over the local is apparent in quite a few places and we see a few district houses where governers would have lived built in traditional Spanish style which have been restored for posterity. At the site itself we can see a recently excavated wall. In this case because it couldn't be demolished or built on it was buried instead. The quality of the stonework is pretty impressive - you couldn't get a hair between some fo the seams of the stones. Their masons really knew what they were doing.
Onwards in the bus takes us to the small town of Limatambo. We have a quick look at an indoor market and where all the locals will come to buy foodstuffs. It's an incredibly vibrant-looking place
with a range of veg that far outstrips any Tesco.
Just a bit down the road we come to an outdoor livestock market which is on once a week and again where all the locals come to trade animals. It's quite an assult on the senses and we look like exactly what we are - a bunch of gringos poking our noses into the locals going about their business! Still, it's amazing to see. We get of first looks at some Peruvian cuy (that's guinea pigs) going for 20 solas a pop. Tim has to prevent Sue from trying to liberate a few with our funds. There's lots of cows on ropes and pigs squealing as they're checked for worms. Nice.
To go with the ceremony of trading, we're informed that a special juice blended from frogs is consumed during the negotiations. I kid you not, you can see the blighters kicking about like those hapless things in Jabba the Hutt's feeding bowl. The blending occurs, well, in a blender. That joke about what's green and turns red at the press of a button? I can tell you catagorically that it's not true. Not that you'd want to
drink it afterwards.
Each to their own, mind, and it's a real insight into how other live their lives.
We drive on to Mollepata where we're welcomed to much funfare. A word of advice if you're planning to go on a trip like this - try to accrue lots of small change in the local currency. Ten solas notes just don't really work in this situation. We get some of the local sweets to keep us going - we're going to need them.
Just a short ride further down the road takes us to Marcocasa at 3350m where we begin our trek proper - we've opted to go for the full optional day trek up the to first lodge. We meet Louise the horse and her handler who'll trail us (in case someone isn't up to it and keels over). Tim's quite eagar to get going. Where we start out it's quite a hot cloudless day and as we climb the vegetation shields us from the breeze so it's pretty hot. Sue and Tim feel in the minority as we've no hiking poles.
By the time we take a break for lunch we're pleased to cool
Salkantay Peak
As viewed from our lodge off a bit in the blazing sun. It's hard work but do-able at this stage.
Everyone's chatting and getting to know each other as we continue our climb and we're treated to some fantastic views as we look back down the valley. Unfortunately, while these look impressive to the eye like a lot of mountain views it just doesn't come out in essence on camera - or at least Tim's skills aren't up to the task.
We finally finish the bulk of our climb and come around the bend to see the Humantay peak and the path to the Humantay. Everyone's feeling pretty tired at this point (even the guides found the heat a bit much we find out later) and as it starts to get dark we make it to Soraypampa and the lodge is a very welcome sight.
Without realizing it we've become completely exhausted and the reality of 3850m hits us as we sit down to take our boots off. Do not underestimate altitude - in all honesty some of this account is being pieced together retrospectively.
Unfortunately, when we settle in it becomes apparent that a minor disaster has struck and that
Acclimatization Time
Dalmiro tells us how it's going to be. Sue has rather large blisters on both of her heels. Thanksfully Tim's Dad recommended we buy some proper blister plasters. Sue's going to find out just how good they are.
Saturday 31/10/09 - Day 2
The aim of the second day is to do an acclimatization trek to get us used to the elevation and to see if we're up to the mark for making the ascent to the Salkantay Pass the next day. Dalmiro explains the significance of lots of the architecture of the Lodge and it's reference to Inca culture and symbols.
Sue's coping with her heels but is taking it easy at this stage. She's made good friends with another Sue who's one of the other Brits and is holding station with Danny who keeps a check on who's at the back of our group. We spot a condor on our way up - a rare sight as there's something like only 500 left in the wild. Tim tries to retain some kind of husband points by periodically checking that things are all right at the back before wandering off with the others in the group. Not that Tim's any expert but Sue gets
The lake below Humantay
Our preparatory hike before the main event - taken from above! some tips on regular pace and breathing which help a lot and have help Tim on various mountain escapades in the past.
It's not exactly difficult, but we're all glad when we've made it to the Humantay Lake at 4200m, though some cows have beaten us to it. It's really beautiful and completely flat and blue and Tim climbs up an adjacent skree peak to try and get some ariel shots. Very breathtaking.
We all take a nice walk around the lake, preferring not to take our shoes and socks off and go for a paddle, enjoying that we're adapting to the mountain air a bit - our mountain sickness symoptoms do seem to be abating somewhat and we're feeling a bit more on the case. The descent is a bit unsteady and going down presents it's own challenges.
Danny beams that we have "passed the test" and that we are all set for the crossing of the pass tomorrow while Dalmiro seems pleased that we seem to make good time as a group.
One of the big plusses of the Mountain Lodges trek is that, well, you stay in lodges. Indulgent perhaps, but while we're
Ready for the main event
We made it! Big push tomorrow... here Tim decides to take advantage of the outdoor jacuzzi. It's quite special basking in the tub, enjoying a beer and chatting away while watching the Humantay and Salkantay turn pink in the sunset and then the full moon rising in the sky.
Sunday 1/11/09 - Day 3
Today is the day of our assult on the Salkantay pass, which is achieved in three stages over two pampas. Our efforts yesterday have prepared us well and we make regular progress with fairly good weather.
It's slightly sad to see at the last pampa that other trekkers have left a fair bit of rubbish which Danny sets about collecting. If you've ever left rubbish on one of these beautiful trails then you're a shame on your species.
At the last pampa it's time to start putting on the mountain gear as the temperature's dropping as we move higher and higher. We climb a series of switchback called the Seven Snakes, which require some steady plodding to cope with. Tim stays back with Sue as he's really keen to see that they finish the last section of the climb together. It's really cold and the weather closes in
We made it!
If only we had air to breathe. and bit by bit it begins to hail - luckily we've all be warned to bring rain gear.
As the altimeter climbs there are only a few metres to go and it's a case of just putting one foot in front of the other and keeping that breathing going. The last stretch is a bit tough but finally we've all made it and don't even notice the hail. We're at the Salkantay pass at about 4650m. Everyone's very pleased with themselves and rightly so.
After we pass over the top the clouds part briefly and the might of the Salkantay looms over us - it's quite a sight. You'd have to be a pretty brave climber to attempt the peak.
It's a fairly steep descent down the mountain from there and after a couple of hours we find ourselves bizarrely at a tent pitched on the side of a mountain with a table laid for everyone and lunch cooking. It's a slightly surreal but very welcome experience.
A further descent brings us to the Wayra Lodge at 3900m. Still pretty high but we're too elated with making the pass today to notice the altitude and settle
Over The Top
The clouds part briefly and the Salkantay shows it's face. in to enjoy some deserved pisco sours in the jacuzzi.
Monday 2/11/09 - Day 4
Today is a fairly short trek where we lose a lot of height. For Sue it's altogether too much what with her blisters and after a short attempt at borrowing John's hiking poles she's made to take up the horse by unanimous decision as tomorrow will be the longest hike.
We make a visit to Maria's house which is local to Wayra. Maria lives with her husband and son farming using very traditional methods to grow potatos - lots of different kinds are grown and enjoyed by mountain dwellers in Peru. These aren't for sale in any market - they'll be traded with the other locals for different kinds of food as their produce is completely organic and hard to come by at these altitudes. Apart from the odd use of torch and radio the way these people are living hasn't really changed for hundreds of years. It's a hard life where they work from the age of 7 to 70. No holidays, no weekends, though the lifestyle means few health problems. They're so remote that should society collapse they probably wouldn't
By Unanimous Decision
Sue mounts up guilt free "but I could have soldiered on" notice much change. When we take a look into their house we see that true to what we've read there are cuy running about the floor underfoot. It is like stepping back in time.
From there it's a long long steep descent, which is very hard on the knees and thighs. Poles help with this, apparently.
Since the path is quite steep and the it's used lots by mule drivers the hooves of the mules have torn up the earth and it's tricky going. The other Sue's husband Richard is treated to a grandstand view of Tim stumbling on his dodgy ankle. While this is painful it's nothing compare to the fear of nearly going off the side of the path into the abyss. Actually, he would have been stopped by trees but it's careful going from
there on in.
We finally arrive at the canyon floor and can see the river. Sue arrives on horseback as we regroup before walking up to the next lodge to cries of "here comes the Queen of England".
We arrive at Colpa Lodge at 2850m for a late lunch. We treated to a traditional Peruvian way of cooking where
Pause for breath
Resting up at the Colpa Lodge stones are heated for 1 1/2 hours over a fire and then potatos, meat and beans are placed in with the hot stones, covered over and then buried in earth. Apparently this sort of thing is reserved for birthdays and such special occasions so it's a treat for us. One of the meats is clearly a cuy - readied in our honour. Got to try it out now the poor mite's died for us. The use of stones does suggest a way of perhaps combining some kind of wood-fired sauna with a way to prepare a post-sauna meal. Have to look into that. We all agree that the results of this way of cooking are delicious, cuy included, even if there isn't much meat on him.
The weather closes in and as we enjoy our jacuzzi this time round it's with black skies with thunder and lightning overhead. It does feel indulgent again but as we wave to backpackers hiking on the other side of the valley in the rain we're happy to be lodging. We depart the jacuzzi before struck down from above for being so mean.
Tuesday 3/11/09 - Day 5
What with the heavy
On to Lucuma Lodge
The last lodge of the trip. rain the night before... well, let's just say that our path was blocked early on this day and that we successfully negotiated any obstacles. We get rained on a bit at this point of the journey briefly - which is only the second time we actually get adverse weather while we're walking on the whole trek.
Today will be the longest day of trekking which would take us to the last of the lodges on the trek before we'd head to Machu Picchu town. This was a fairly steep descent again that took us down into the valley. It's a fairly well-travelled path that is well-maintained by the mule drivers - the self-supporting nature of the trail is definitely one for the anarchists. There's a lot of interesting flora and fauna to observe but Tim is restraining himself to doing only one thing at a time - no walking and chewing gum at the same time - so as to prevent any further ankle mishaps. We're losing so much height at this time as we follow the river at the valley floor at various heights above it. On the other side of the valley we can see the encroachment
A lesson in coffee
Starbucks, it's not. And tastes far better, too. of civilization as they're building a road up to Colpa where we've come from - this will mean the difference between life or death in terms of access to the hospital for the people who live there even if it spoils the valley and impacts the jungle.
The long descent into the valley finishes with... a bus! Tim is reminded of a desperate time in Dartmoor where a taxi had to be resorted to, but to be honest the leg of the journey covered by the bus would have been pretty dull.
The bus drops us off at a well-restore section of the Inca trail. It's well-maintained and while it's an uphill walk through 100% humidity with muchos mosquitoes at this stage it's a great relief to be able to walk without having to watch each step that carefully.
We arrive at the last lodge - Lucma Lodge at 2150m, which is the most wooden in construction and probably the one that was our favourite (even despite it's lack of jacuzzi!)
It's Charley's birthday (we wont embarrass by saying which one) but before we indulge Dalmiro takes on a quick tour where we surprise one of
Cute as cute can be
And waiting for someone's birthday. the locals to see how they produce coffee in their coffee plantation. As we're not expected we get to see things as they are for the local and it's another eye-opener. We see the roller where the beans are split out from their soft casings then see the dried beans being roasted over a fire before finally being ground down and brewed up. We can safely say it's the best cup of coffee we've ever tasted. (Meanwhile we're continually distracted by another family of cuy who are running about the place underfoot - awaiting a special occasion like someone's birthday!)
Back to the birthday celebrations with plenty of Pisco sours and wine going down. Charley insists that all nationalities give a rendition of their respective national anthems - Sue is let off being made to do any more Queeny impersonations. A night of much indulgence and probably not the best of ways to prepare for the last day of trekking tomorrow, but hey - we're veterans at it now. How hard can it be?
Wednesday 4/11/09 - Day 6
The day starts with a very hard climb through the jungle up to about 2800m. It's very humid
Machu Picchu from the west
A view exclusive to the Salkantay Trail. and there's quite a few bugs about. Nice hangover.
Thankfully the path is about as easy to walk as could be expected, all things considered. This is a path used by the locals and not the Inca trail any more. We're somewhat shocked to be passed by another group of hikers and realise that this is the first time that we've seen another band of trekkers up close in the last six days. Strange.
When we finally get to the top of the ridge we make it to a small restored site of Inca ruins and get our first view of Machu Picchu from the west. This is an unusual sight given that most people approach Machu Picchu from the sun gate. We just about get away with the weather - it's very strange to see the restore city across the way. It looks very beautiful and somewhat strange lying across a mountain saddle up amoung the clouds.
A bit further on and we stop at a very civilized lunch spot (complete with insect screens and flushing toilet, no less!) to take in Machu Picchu and reflect while we rest. At this point of the trek we
Bug beautiful
At least this one doesn't bite... I think. can feel that while Machu Picchu is now in sight, something has happened to us during the journey. We've been spiritually as well as physically transported as we've made our way. Some of it in accustomed comfort, to be sure, but we feel that this has just taken the edge of the physical side enough to let us truly appreciate the beauty of the journey we've made and the country and places we've travelled through.
We make a final steep descent through the jungle. Very hard on the thighs and knees at this point of the proceedings - thankfully the path is pretty free of rocks so enough attention can be given to the spectacular jungle views, plants and butterflys.
A suspension bridge across the river at the bottom of the valley and we walk the final stretch to the hydroelectric station where we'll pick up the train for the journey to Machu Picchu town, which is a slightly bizarre experience walking through an industrial sight up to the train station at 1750m.
We've very lucky as we make it to the train station just before the heavens completely open and it chucks down as we down
No bridge too far
The end is in sight. some very deserved beers. For us, the trekking is over.
We have to say a fond farewell to Danny, especially after looking after Sue and Sue. The train then takes us along the Rio Urubamba to Machu Picchu town around the base of the mountain. We check into the Inkatera Hotel. It's a really nice location that we're unfortunately too done in to really appreciate. Up at a reasonable hour tomorrow to see Machu Picchu itself.
Thursday 5/11/09 - Day 7
Thankfully, we're up at a reasonable time to get the bus up to the restored ruins of Machu Picchu.
Needless to say, the restored ruins themselves are beautiful. Machu Picchu had been abandoned for some hundreds of years before it was discovered. Dalmiro is quite careful to point out that while a lot has been said about this place the actual concrete knowledge about what really happened in this place, who lived here, what they did and why they did it and why the city is located here all aren't really known for sure.
Although it's hard to say, considering the jungle would have taken the city to pieces in the few hundred years
At Machu Picchu at last
But it's the journey - not the destination. it was abandoned and who can say how accurate the restoration is, the quality of Inca stonework I've seen elsewhere is much higher and there's apparently some evidence that this place was inhabited pre-Inca. That said, some of the stonework is very precisely chiseled and doesn't match the quality of the work elsewhere in the city. A lot of questions. None of which detract from how impressive it all looks though, and the mystifying feeling you get trying to imagine what it really looked like and what went on here.
We're about halfway through the city tour and the opportunity to climb Huayna Picchu presents itself - there's currently a gap in the quota of people they let up. After some brief exchanges with their respective spouses Richard and Tim decide to go for the assault on Huayna Picchu, which looks very high from the entrance gate. The girls aren't happy and it's clear in no uncertain terms that we're to get a wriggle on.
With the metaphorical poking from behind of their spouses, Richard and Tim was no time making their way up. It's a very challenging journey and we've been told that people will get on
trains without us if we're late. Some of the other people on the stairs really aren't exercising as much safety awareness as one would like. The last 50m or so are the toughest and the most exposed. There's a narrow tunnel to negotiate before climbing a wooden latter up inside the rocks at the top and... we're up and it's very very exposed at the top.
It's a sight to behold (as in "f*ck me, we're high up") and a real exercise in vertigo control but both Richard and Tim are massively elated. We made it in 35, which isn't bad considering it's about 360m about Machu Picchu itself.
Unfortunately there's not much time for hanging about, so after the prerequisite snaps it's back down as quickly as it's possible to do so, tired legs and safety permitting. By the time they finally get the bus down there's actually got a couple of hours to spare before the train. Very deserved beers.
We get the train, have to say a fond farewell to John and Linda who get the sample the delights of the Inkatera Hotel one more night, which takes about 1 1/2 hours to go
The Sun Temple
While mountaineers were doing other things... 6 miles, with lots of waiting about. The most bizarre part of which is the on-board entertainment. We get a very strange folklore figure bearing a llama figure and doing a pretty impressive dance as the train sways about. Followed up by a fairly professional fashion show with the staff modelling all the clothes available to buy on-board. Sue's even impressed enough to buy a rather racy black shawl.
After the train those that remain get a bus back to Cusco in the evening dark. It's a shame, as Tim realises that since we we're so tired last night and today has been such a rush that Charley's birthday was the last time we all actually had together as a group who've made such an important journey together. It's funny how sometime you only realise such things in retrospect.
Bit by bit, we say our goodbyes and say a final thankyou to Dalmiro. And then it's all over - we're back at the Amaru Hostel II.
Trekked: 42 miles.
Travelled: 197 miles.
Climbed: 2250m.
Descended: 3800m.
(With an extra 350m up and down for Tim!)
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Rebecca Chard
non-member comment
Greetings from Lymington
Viva la reina!! Long live the Queen!