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Published: September 29th 2009
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Male tortoise pen
Charles Darwin Research Center, Puerto Ayora, Isla Santa Cruz Short version: returned 3 weeks ago from 2 months in South America including 10 days in the Galápagos. It was awesome.
Long version: The highlight of the 10 days on islands was the 6 day boat tour. When I arrived in Puerto Ayora I had no intention of taking a cruise. I had booked flights with the Ecuadoran national airline, called TAME, when I was still in the US. I was flying to Puerto Ayora on Isla Santa Cruz (actual airport is on Isla Baltra with a short ferry ride across the channel connecting them) and departing from Isla San Cristóbal. There are public boats between the 2 islands and also to Isla Isabela. Figured I would be satisfied taking day trips and getting around on my own. However, after a couple of hours in Puerto Ayora I realized this was not a good strategy since the islands are much more expensive than continental Ecuador and poor value. I thought a cruise might be more economical and provide a better experience in the islands. So I walked around for a couple of hours and soon settled on a 6 day cruise leaving in 2 days. Before the cruise I did
Small tortoises
Charles Darwin Research Center, Puerto Ayora, Isla Santa Cruz a self guided tour of the Charles Darwin Research Center which is a giant tortoise breeding center. Also visited Bahía Tortuga (Turtle Bay) - one of the best beaches where nobody swims because of the strong currents.
We started and finished at the green point - Puerto Ayora, Isla Santa Cruz. First night headed NE to east side of Isla Santiago for Sombrero China (point 1) and Isla Bartolomé. Second night went counterclockwise to Puerto Egas then afternoon ride to Isla Rábida. Spent the night at the north end of Isla Santa Cruz (point 5). Then along the east side to Cala de Tortuga Negra (Black Turtle Cove) and Isla Santa Fé. 4th night was a long, rough ride to Española the most SE, and therefore oldest, island. Another long, rough night ride to Floreana (red point) followed by the return trip to Puerto Ayora (P.A.) on the last day.
The setup of the boat was as such: three 2 berth cabins on the lower level, 2 much nicer 2 berth cabins on the deck level along with the dining area. There was a sun deck on the bow and another on the bridge. The 4 man crew
Large male tortoise
Charles Darwin Research Center, Puerto Ayora, Isla Santa Cruz and guide slept in a small cabin on the bridge. It was close quarters all around.
Travel related details
Flights I booked my TAME flights with an agent in Miami. Her name is Gaby and she is very helpful and only charges a $5 commission which she definitely earned from me. There are 2 flights each day, each way, between Quito and Baltra, all stopping in Guayaquil. It is ~$25 cheaper each way to fly to/from Guayaquil as opposed to Quito. I initially planned to do that because I was going to make my way south to Cuenca then Guayaquil after climbing the volcanoes and recuperating in Baños. Didn't quite work out that way but it was very easy to change my departure city to Quito only having to pay for the price difference of the fares without a change fee. Also changed my departure flight from the islands and would leave from Baltra instead of San Cristóbal. Again, with no change fee. There is only one San Cristóbal flight/day each way and they're not daily. Had a window seat both ways on the correct side of the plane - left going to the islands, right returning - in
Close up at female tortoise pen
Charles Darwin Research Center, Puerto Ayora, Isla Santa Cruz order to get great views of Volcán Cotopaxi and Volcán Chimborazo.
There is a free bus from the Baltra airport to the channel where you pay $0.80 to cross. Then board another bus ($1.80) for the ride to P.A. When I boarded the bus there were very few passengers and it didn't seem like we were going to leave anytime soon. A pickup truck parked next to the bus offered to take me for $3. Turns out that extended cab pickups are the island's taxis. I asked another passenger if he wanted to share the taxi then we were off after easily bargaining down to $2/person. Takes about 45 minutes by taxi from the channel to P.A. and we were dropped in the center of town. Returning to the airport there is one bus from a terminal a few kms from town ($1 in a taxi). The airport bus is timed to meet the flights and leaves ~3 hours before departure.
Accommodation on the islands This was probably the poorest value in 2 months in South America. And I don't think this is solely attributable to inflation because the airport bus/ferry fare has increased by a whopping $0.10
since 2004 according to my outdated guidebook.
First 2 nights stayed in Hotel Lirio del Mar for $15/night. Fan room, private bathroom with cold water shower. That seemed to be the standard price for that level of comfort. It didn't matter too much as I hardly spent anytime in the room. I returned to P.A. after the cruise only to find Lirio del Mar full so I stayed in the equally overpriced New Elizabeth Hotel. Same deal, same price, a bit scuzzier, but an ocean view from many rooms. Not mine. It is advisable to leave your valuables with reception at all P.A.'s budget hotels.
Food on the islands For lunch and dinner make a beeline for Charles Bindford where you can get an
almuerzo or
merienda for $2-3 and it will usually be some form of soup, rice, beans, seafood, and juice. Breakfast is not quite as good a deal unless you want the local breakfast of
seco de pollo, dry chicken stew. No thanks. I went to El Chocolate almost everyday for great breakfasts, coffee, and juice for ~$4.
Side trip to Isla Isabela None of the cruises go to this island because it is
easy to do independently. However, many agencies do offer a 2 day trip from P.A. which I would recommend if you want to go to this island. I went on my own only so I could hike to Volcán Sierra Negra's crater rim. This is not possible. Can only ascend the volcano on horseback in which I was not at all interested. Unfortunately, I did not find out about the hiking prohibition until I got to the island after spending $30 on a butt crunching speedboat ride. Only spent a night there then left the next morning for another $30 plus a $5 foreigner dock use fee which nearly caused me to blow a gasket. Total waste of time and money and there is nothing remarkable about the main town on the island. The Isabela trip with the agencies is a good deal if you want the horseback ride and the snorkeling which is also included. Also included is the transport, several meals, and 2 nights in a hotel. You should be able to get the trip for $170, maybe less. I think this trip caters to tourists who are not going to do a cruise around the other islands.
Resting sea lion
Latching lava lizard eats the flies. Sombrero China I kind of regretted going because it was a major letdown after the fantastic cruise. Later caught up with 2 friends who did the horseback trip and said it was great. Go figure.
The speedboats leave P.A. at 2 p.m. and arrive in Isabela ~2½ hours later. Buy your ticket in the morning from any agency without commission. Returning to P.A. they leave Isabela at 6 a.m. Buy the ticket the day before and the agency should provide transport to the dock otherwise it is ~10-15 minute walk.
I could probably write much more but I'm balancing that versus the urge to quickly get something out so I can work on the blog entry for the rest of Ecuador - Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Quito, Baños, and Laguna Quilotoa.
Stay tuned.
Jon
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Herman/Christl
non-member comment
Amazing blog
He Worldcruiser, This is Herman/Christl from the Netherlands. Wow, what a staggering pictures you have taken this vacation. You surely have a feel for it! Nice report, a bit short do. I understand you have more info in the future. Where is the rest of the comments of your other trips. Are they hidden or somewhere else. I have put some pictures and video of the Galapagos/Costa Rica 2009 on Facebook. Greetings