Gulanyu and Xiamen

---

On the hard sleeper train to Xiamen we met an extremely friendly Chinese student called Jing Jing. Jing Jing was returning home from Hangzhou after visiting here brother. Even before the train had set off Jing Jing had greeted us and immediately offered us a vacum packed chicken's foot with an oreo biscuit to wash it down. Up until this point we were more than aware of the ready to eat delicacies that were to be found in Chinese mini markets and although we were keen to try new things we hadn't been particularly forthcoming in trying chicken's feet. The particular feet in question were small by comparison but no more appetising to our western palet. We didn't want to be rude by refusing and so did our best to niddle and swallow a few morcels. The feet had been pickled and the vinegar taste dominated the flavour so it wasn't too bad in the taste department. The pickling did, however, shrivel the flesh and the small toes looked remarkably like babies fingers. It was that mental picture that I found difficult to expel. Fortunately we had the oreo cookie to comfort us. We really wish that we had something to offer Jing Jing to repay here generosity.

We had made the decision mid journey to stay on Gulanyu island as opposed to the city of Xiamen. We had been reading about the island, a stone's throw from the mainland, and were initised by the lonely planet description and not put off by the extra efforts needed to get there. We re-engaged with Jing Jing in the morning and we were telling her about our trip as best we could; where we had been and where we were staying on Gulanyu. Jing Jing knew a little English and our Chinese was limited to a few food orintated phrases so communicating was difficult. We asked her what bus we should get from the station to the ferry terminal and when was hesitant in her repsonse we though that she didn't understand the question. We didn't speak again until later and in the interim she'd then made a few calls. "Help you" she exclaimed in English several times when she returned. We hadn't a notion what she was on about. When we arrived at the train station it became clear. Jing Jing it appeared had already made up her mind that she would help us to the bus; which proved very fortunate as there were alot of buses around.

It turns out that Jing Jing had been on the phone to her friend making arrangments for her friend to meet her at the train station to collect her suitcase. Jing Jing then walked us to the bus stop, accross four lanes of kamakazee traffic. We thanked her for all her help but just as the bus arrived and before we had a chance to pick up our bags, Jing Jing had hopped on the bus and paid for all three of us. She then got off the bus with us and walked us to the ferry terminal. Approaching the ferry ticket counter, Jing Jing reached for her purse again. She was going to pay for us on the ferry too. We managed to get the ticket vendor to take our money instead of hers. When the ferry arrived on the island Jing Jing took us right to the door of our hostel. We were so touched by this random act of kindness and really wanted to thank her buying lunch. However Jing Jing would not accept and simply wanted her photo with us.

Gulangyu was very beautiful island filled with old colonial buildings, winding cobbled pathways and nice little cafes to pass away the day in. We walked, relaxed on the beaches and pointed at photos on menus as a means of feeding ourselves (however this ended up slightly unsuccessful with Sarah managing to order clam omlette twice thinking the picture was some form of rice dish).

One of the nicest things about Gulanyu were the evenings; during the day the island was awash with Chinese tourists but in the evening, when the boats stopped we felt like we had the place to ourselves.

---

Comments

[madre]

jealous
this place looks really lovely andI bet its good to get to the beach. You have met really nice people on your travels but how could you eat chickens feet and not be ill. Beautiful buildings and winding streets . madre and eve xoxoxoxo