xela, Che, and Cafe la luna

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hello all,
greetings from the beautiful, somewhat crazy city of Xela. It has about the population of Berkeley and has quite a few similarities to berkeley, if you were to seperate berkeley from the bay area, drop it off in an area surrounded by volcanoes, add a few colonial buildings and cobblestone streets, throw in a couple roosters waking yours truely up at 4 in the morning, and adding or subtracting a few other minor details...
I mean it has a number of wonderful cafes, crazy drivers who run you off the road, lots of university students, people wearing clothing of every color of the rainbow, but most importantly, it has some wonderful, friendly people who are actually intelligent when it comes to politics and life in general.

My stay here started out a bit slow and dull, and I kind of regretted coming and committing for a week of spanish classes. The day I arrived, I went straight to the spanish school which was on the outskirts of town, in an area that is a bit run down. It was a bit noisy, dirty, polluted, and at first there appeared to be a lot less indigenous culture here.

My opinions soon changed once i went to the beautiful central park surrounded by many old, beautiful buildings, with a fountain, garden, and a round greco/romano building in the center. The best, however, was yet to come. The third night in town, I went to this beautifully decorated cafe called cafe la luna (many thanks go out to eva for this one). The insides are covered with all sorts of pictures, objects (such as wheels, weapons, plenty of ceramic moons, etc.) and is also painted in that classic mexican/latino feel, primary blocks of color. I happened to go on the night that they had live music which happens only about every 15 days. The band consisted of three men, one on the classical guitar, another on the electric bass, and the last on the congas. They played wonderful latin/flamenco music, the guitarist had an soothing yet strong voice and moved his fingers like I've never seen. To top it off it had wonderful hot chocolates, and a good peach cream pie.

I also live with a wonderful older woman, who cooks fine meals, such as chile rellenos stuffed with veggies and meat, and potato tamales. We have great conversations about everything. From politics, to life ambitions, family issues/values, books, history, etc.

I also have a great relationship with my teacher who is all of 21, is married, has a 2 year old kid, works anywhere from 5 to 10 hours a day at the school, and then goes around selling cosmetics. To top it off she is a law student who attends classes on weekends, and studies during the week. It has been extremeley interesting to talk to her. She seems to be pretty intelligent and well learned, but she knows so little about the outside world. And yet she has a hunger to learn about everything. So in class I get to teach her about other religions, and the little history that I know about religions. Also she is extremeley interested to learn about the US, about politics, about what is behind the war in Iraq, etc. These are things that I struggle to communicate in english, but for whatever reason, I feel like I am able to communicate it well with my spanish. I think it is my passion to teach and her passion to learn, that makes it so easy. In a few days, I feel like my spanish has jumped leaps and bounds.

To top it off I got to see Motorcycle Diaries again, and listen to it in spanish this time. The beauty of south america and the life of Che was very inspiring. So between the church back in San Lucas and the people and my experiences here, I have been extremeley inspired and more hopefull, yet more determined to do something to help the world. I realize it may end up in complete disapointment, and probably will in some sense... but I am hopeful, and look forward to moving on and exploring and learning more.

Tomorrow we are off to watch a ceremony for the Mayan New Year, and friday off to the second largest market in Guatemala in a town called San Francisco of all places. It is supposed to pretty crazy, and filled with animals for sale. So if anyone needs a chick or a cow, just let me know. Afterwards, we are supposed to play soccer, teachers against students, though I'm not sure any of the other students play.. we could be in trouble. I am also supposed to get some latin guitar lessons in the next few days.

okay basta, thanks for reading, feel free to write. miss everyone.
mikael

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Comments

[Janene]

Necesito un burro, alli tienen?
Hola Miguelito! Estaba leyendo sobre tus aventuras y me intereso lo que dijiste sobre la vaca/mula/burro. Mi bicicleta me esta fallando y necesito un modo de transportacion... pero si un animal tan grande te va a causar problemas cuando regreses mejor olvidalo. Pero espero que te diviertas muchisimo y pon mas fotos para que nosotros vivamos por tus experiensas! Cuidate. -Janene

[jlemur]

there y'are
don't know if the first comment went through--I'm registered now. I will share with Julie and comment more soon. Meanwhile, all love, Joel