Douglas of Estonia

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Soomaa National Park: 29th -30th July 2009

In a land far away, where time is counted not in seconds but instead in seasons, where the wind speaks only to the hardiest, where the Empire of the Mosquito rules the land by awesome might, there went a man who wanted but one thing: a cold beer. But in his quest, he alone would take on the dreaded armies of the Mosquito Empire and their staunchest of allies, the nefarious Horsefly Nation. Few remember him now (due to the short visit), but the scribes recorded well their battle on the Parnu River during the campaign known as The Soomaa Beaver Safari. This is the story of Douglas of Estonia, a man that local tribesmen would name Kaluu-panaaru-taaparii-navuu (meaning “He who left his bug spray in the cabin and then put his t-shirt on his head in a weak attempt to avoid getting bitten”) in honor of his courage in the face of many enemies whilst armed with only a canoe paddle and foul language. History pays no heed to the multitudes of brave beavers that came to the defense of Douglas of Estonia...though some say that no beavers joined the fray, and some even say that none would appear that entire night making the trip a complete bust. Only the beavers know for sure. Without any doubt, it was the enduring spirit of the beaver that spurred on Douglas of Estonia to survive the onslaught, so that a cold beer was indeed his in the bitter (bitten?) end.

And Rayma got bitten a lot, too. We did see something splash on the way back to camp. Our guide said it was a beaver or possibly an otter. I think it was the Loch Ness Monster.

The next morning was the successful and fun bog walk (with a more liberal application of bug spray this time). We got to wear cool bog shoes (which probably double as snow shoes in the winter) to help us walk on mushy spots where we would have otherwise sunk neck deep (like the inevitable city slicker from the Tarzan films), and they help protect the bog as we walk on it. It's really weird to see the “ground” beneath you undulate as you walk over it.

As bogs go, the one in Soomaa Reserve is apparently unique. After the last ice age, there was a lake in the middle of Estonia, and in the subsequent millennia, sphagnum moss (peat) grew up through the lake to make a bog. To make the point, our guide, Gren, reached down, grabbed a handful of peat, squeezed it, and water fell to the ground as if he had squeezed a wet sponge. The bog is actually raised in the middle by 8 meters or so, but it looks pretty flat to the untrained eye (me). The bog is also vast and beautiful. If you don't want to wear bog shoes, that's ok. One of the rangers, Algis, built a great boardwalk through the bog with platforms and benches at swimming holes if boggers want a break. Algis likes to keep busy.

Just bring bug spray with you wherever you go, or else you might wind up with an orange t-shirt on your head.

comment from rayma: the mosquitos were outrageous. i was eaten alive!

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Photos

Our Log Cabin
You can't see it, but the outhouse is about 50 yards behind the cabin.

Our only visible evidence of Beavers
We did also have some auditory evidence as well.

My bog shoes
Described as the bog's "traffic lights", our guide said if the peat moss is red, then it is dryer and thus safer to walk on. If it is green, then it is much more wet and less likely to hold you up.

Bog Lake
In a pinch, you can actually drink the water. Nature's filter.

Comments

[Daddy]

As a biologist, I would love to see this place. When people talk about the great accomplishments of the 20th Century, I always think of the discovery of the active ingrediant in Off.