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Published: June 22nd 2009
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Cusco
Main sqaure Isla de Sol
We spent our final couple of days in Bolivia in Copacobana, though we didn't meet any showgirls, never mind one called Lola! We took the world's slowest boat ride out to Isla de Sol and trekked from the north end of the island to the south, paying tribute to just about anyone who felt they needed a cut of the income from all the tourists. Nevertheless, the views were amazing and the island lived up to its name as I acquired some interesting burn patterns on my arms.
Cusco
In short, Cusco was fantastic. One of the best places we have visited, only let down by the incessant hassle from the shoeshine boys and the tat sellers - although the occasional one did at least have a little charm!
We spent three days in Cusco prior to the Inca trail to sort out various administrative jobs with a large dose of sightseeing thrown in. On the second day we made the steep climb to Sacsayhuaman, the Incan fortress (according to some, maybe ceremonial according to others). From there we visited three other sites including Puka Pakara (Red Fortress) and the suspected site of some
Sacsayhuaman
Pronounced "sexywoman" much to Stavi's annoyance! Incan baths. They claim the fountains were used as showers for weary travelling nobles, only really reaffirming how small they must have been. Even Stavi was beginning was beginning to look tall....
The Inca Trail
Finally, the day had arrived! Picked up at 05:45, we were both excited...well, as excited as you can be at that time of the morning! After breakfast we finally arrived at the start of the trail and set off in glorious sunshine along what would become known as "Andean flat" (gently or not so gently rolling terrain). The first day, albeit tiring, had been pretty straight forward, nothing, apparently, as to what was to come the next day - from our campsite we had a great view of the really steep climb ahead of us! Fortunately we discovered our camp had a beer lady and thoughts of the next day soon passed!
Up again at stupid o'clock, we enjoyed a sumptious breakfast light on toast and jam, before beginning the climb to 4800m. The first part of the climb to the "false pass" wasn´t too bad, but once in sight of the "summit" it quickly became 10 steps, stop to gulp in
Inca Trail - Day 2
False pass on the climb to 4800m air, another 10 steps...well, you get the picture! After that it was all downhill. So that was the hardest day, but day 3 was apparently the longest....
As it turned out, despite a really cold night (so envious of Stavi's down sleeping bag!), day 3 was to be the most incredible day. It was Andean flat all the way to the second pass, which afforded fabulous views across the next valley, then downhill to the "city above the clouds". The city was believed to be an Incan fortress and looked incredible bathed in glorious sunshine. A brief tour, downhill to lunch and then through some of the most incredible scenery either of us had seen in the whole of South America. The trail to the third pass meandered through lush, green cloud forest sat on steep slopes leading down to the rivers below.
Up the earliest yet for the final day, we walked as quickly as we could to reach the sun gate. The view down to Macchu Picchu was amazing. Futher down another viewing area afforded the opporotunity to take the classic view of the city as seen on nearly every tourist poster and postcard. Into the
Inca Trail - Day 2
At 4800m after the tough ascent. I am not moving! city itself, the ruins were some of the best preserved I'd ever seen (although not all genuine!). Incredible as it all was by 1pm we were both knackered (we´d been up since 4) and reluctantly retreated to Aguas Calientes.
Looking back this is definitely one of the highlights for both of us of the whole trip - many, many thanks koumbara Marita - not just for the final destination, but also for everything we saw along the way.
After the Inca Trail...
We moved into Nasca next albeit very briefly! We stepped off the overnight bus from Cusco, were picked up by the tour company and taken to a hotel near the airport for breakfast. Two hours later we were in the air flying over the Nasca lines. Not as big as I was expecting, they were nevertheless impressive. Quite how the Nasca civilisation drew them without seeing them from above makes you think. Landing (and feeling just a little queasy) we hopped straight back in the bus and headed for Paracas, a coastal national park consisting mostly of desert.
We went to Paracas mainly for the Islas Ballestas and another chance to see the rather
Family Photo
Inca Trail - Day 2. Whole group with porters. shy Humboldt penguin we´d first seen so briefly in Chile. Although not so shy, the penguins weren´t as numerous, but the sealions were on fine form - plentiful and boisterous! We´d also read that you could try your hand at sandboarding, so we decided to give it a go. We headed out initially in an ultimately unreliable dune buggy for some hairy manoeuvres over the dunes. Although a little short the sandboarding was the perfect taster and even better neither of us fell off!
Our next stop was the small town of Lunahuana, about 40km or so inland in a rather picturesque little valley. After the excitement of sandboarding, we decided to finally try our hands at white water rafting (we toyed with the idea briefly in Argentina). Turned out it was the perfect timing, with the water in the river quite low - just right for a pair of rank amateurs! It was just the two of us in the boat with a pair of instructors, one of whom wanted to learn Greek! Despite what the pictures appear to show, we both managed to stay in the boat, only getting out when we were told it was safe
City above the clouds
Inca Trail Day 3, Second Pass. If only we could remember the Quechua name! for a swim!
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Sheryl
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Ha ha ha
I love the photo of Kevin jumping off the sand dune. Very funny! Excellent photos - very jealous! xx