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Published: April 2nd 2009
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After various experiences of 'overnight sleeper' buses in Vietnam we were a little apprehensive as we boarded the sleeper train from Bangkok to the south of Thailand.
As we entered the platform dusk was setting in and the air was thick with fumes. People were rushing about, bored station officials watching them hurl bags onto carriages, everyone wanting to be somewhere. We were directed to our home for the night and after walking past 12 carriages we climbed aboard. The carriage was very basic but comfortable with lime green walls, spongy seats and stainless steel ladders leading up to bed.
Michelle was sat on one side and me the other. We did try and book lower beds (more room) but had to settle for top bunks and the carriage was shared between us and a handful of locals. After 10 minutes of grinding out of the station a cockroach ran across Michelle's seat...and then another below. We were relieved when the porter came along and made up our beds, soon enough we were up the ladders and safely tucked in.
After a decent nights sleep (Lee spent bits of it counting cockroaches in between watching 2 episodes of
The office on the ipod) we arrived in Surat Thani at 8am. Our journey continued as we hopped on a local bus, avoiding the touts trying to charge us stupid money for VIP buses. Once in town we had to board another 3 hour coach to take us to the main town of Krabi. We arrived in Krabi a little jaded and flagged down a Songthaew (local taxi) for another 30 minute journey to the main bit and after 18 hours of travelling we checked in to a guesthouse and fell straight to sleep!!!
Krabi is a transit town and tourist arrive from everywhere. Normally they move swiftly on to neighboring tropical islands. We decided to stay for a few nights and see what the town had to offer.
To be honest there is not a great deal to write about Krabi. We had a good night watching Liverpool beat Aston Villa 5-0 (I think), found a good little place for food called good dream guest house, oh and Michelle found yet another bug in our fried vegetables (street food) halfway through. It does make you feel quite peaky when you find the bug near the end of
your meal.
Our next stop was the highly rated Railay beach. It's on the main land but completely cut off from roads and civilization, giving it an island like feel. It has three Main beaches, one being called Tonsai where all the travellers hang out, which we headed for. We arrived at the little port in Ao Nang where you have to board a long tail boat to reach Railay and after splashing about to get in we were soon on our way. The karst cliffs are spectacular (no wonder its a climbers hot spot) the warm turquoise water and clear blue sky made us feel like we were heading for somewhere special.
Its only a short ten minute journey, and upon arriving Lee decided it was his turn to head off and find a place to stay. Michelle sat anxiously waiting and met another traveller who had just arrived.. it turned out to be her first day of her one year trip (JEALOUS!!!).
We checked into an isolated place surrounded by thick jungle called Countryside Bungalows. The huts carefully balanced on tall stilts gave us an amazing balcony view over the treetops backed by a mammoth
cliff. However after just 5 minutes of unpacking Michelle spotted a huge spider in the bathroom. Lee ushered it down the plug hole (what a man!). Michelle was getting bitten to bits by the mozzies and it really did feel like at any time a snake was going to come through the floor and eat us! Another spider later and we decided to head out to explore, only to get caught in a tropical storm (not much luck so far). We braved the rain and walked along the beach. It got worse and after realising there may be a chance of drowning we rushed back to find more creatures in our room.
Tonsai is a really cool place. There is a small dirt track set back from the beach with a few bungalows, and mellow bars on. Its cut off from everything else and everyone seems to acknowledge each other. Its almost like a small community, only your presumed 'cool' if you rock climb!! (we didn't). Our first night was spent locked in battle over connect 4 (seriously we must of played 30 games non stop) in the Tonsai experience bar. It was like a scene out of a
book..Sat on cushions in a candle lit bar, drinking Singha beer and being surrounded by hippies.
The next day we were visited by an evil monster. It jumped at us, and gnarled. It showed its evil face and ran across the sink in the bathroom evading Lee slamming a book down. It was of course a MONSTER cockroach. Really this thing was at least 5 foot in size (kinda) and would not die. After chopping it in half and then cutting off its head we threw it down the plughole.. and then moved accommodation.
We happily checked into the squeaky clean, super friendly Mountain view resort and had a detached bungalow in a much less jungle surrounded area. The same day we ventured out and made our way to the best beach in the area called Railay beach. We had read that you have to scale some rocks to get across to it. After reaching the end of our beach (Tonsai) we asked some climbers how to get to Railay beach.. they mentioned its just a short walk over a hill, back down and hey presto. Not true. You have to walk (in flip flops) over rough terrain,
adjusting each step over branches and rocks while watching the tress coming at you from all angles, ensuring no snakes or spiders are just about to leap out at you (this blog is starting to sound very dramatic!) The beach was well worth the climb. See through water and powder white sand (we will be saying that for the next 7 weeks I promise!!) backed by stunning cliffs and lush green jungle.
We had an amazing Indian meal while we were in Railay (the place was called The Tali Leaf) after hearing that the owner was from the Wirral we were soon gabbing about home and how Liverpool has changed over the last few years, only to discover that his wife was from Derby!!! how weird. As you can imagine, Michelle and Lee had separate conversations .. each of us reminiscing about home with our hosts!.. oh and the meal was top draw ;-)
After spending 4 nights in Railay we headed back to Ao Nang (the main tourist town with the port) and headed to the 7-11 to stock up and grab some internet time.
Catch you all soon.
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anonymous
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hi good to hear from you both phone back to old number love you lots mum