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Published: February 1st 2006
Sigrun and I
Here we are standing in front of the New Woodlands Hotel sign -- my home away from home in Chennai.Hi, all,
I am writing this from the most amazing cyber cafe. It is gorgeous, air conditioned and very high tech. I haven't seen anything like it in India -- and it's right near my hotel here in Chennai, so I am very happy. I am now a proud member of Reliance Web World and I can surf to my heart's content in any Web World branch in India. I think this place will be a quiet, cool "safe haven," away from the hustle, bustle, noise and dirt of Chennai. The washrooms are clean and they have a great little cafe that delivers snacks and masala chai right to your computer station.
Thanks for all your emails and comments on my blog. I really appreciate it. I am so glad I decided to do this travel blog. I have heard from all kinds of people because of it, and I have 50 subscribers! I am finding it a great way to communicate as sending and receiving emails is just too time-consuming and not always practical. India is a "third world / developing" nation, and things we take for granted in the west, such as continuous electricity, is just not
tsunami devestation
You can see the barren beach behind these fishermen's huts on the beach south of Chennai. More than 10,000 people died on this coast, the hardest hit area of India. reliable here.
I am reading the newspaper here every day, as I find it a great way to learn about life in India. I have wanted to report on two of the top news stories for awhile. Of course politics, corruption and sports (i.e. cricket) are big stories, but the two I find most fascinating are about a guru and a movie star. Ramdev is a a yoga guru with millions of followers because of his daily television program. He is famous for bringing yoga to the masses and for bringing renewed attention about yoga to India, where it does not seem to be as popular as it is in the west. He also owns businesses including an ayurvedic medicines company. In December, a politician accused him of added animal parts and crushed human bones to his ayurvedic mixtures and a storm erupted. More than 80% of Indians are Hindus and to many of them vegetarianism is a big part of their religious beliefs. So you can imagine.
Another storm erupted in December when a female Bollywood star said girls should ensure they practice safe sex. Pre-marital sex is against Hindu beliefs and also not socially acceptable, so
shore temple
One of the famous 1,400 year-old temples of Mamallapuram, about 40 kms south of Chennai. she has been attacked and defended in the media for months.
It's so interesting to be immersed in a completely different culture. I feel thrown off-kilter most of the time, but I think that's a good thing, overall. It inspires me to examine my beliefs, and it gives me perspective, new ideas, and increased self-knowledge. Plus, I am learning a lot about one of the world's richest and most fascinating cultures.
On a recent evening I was walking down a busy street near my hotel here in Chennai -- one of the first times I walked alone in India at night -- and I watched as an EXTREMELY packed and derelict-looking bus pulled up to the stop. People threw themselves into the jammed bus, and jumped to cling to the outside. I saw several very thin men actually holding the bus and running along beside it to try and hang on. It was very dangerous, but they threw themselves into it. (I know from reading the newspaper that many people die in India every day from falling off trains and buses -- especially in Mumbai). Oddly, this affected me more than almost anything I have seen in India
bird man of Mamallapuram
For 10 rupees (about 40 cents) this man's bird will pick a card that reveals your fortune. I got pics of Ganesha and Lakshmi and he told me I had my own mind and only listened to my own ideas. Can you believe it?! so far. It seemed to highlight so many of the diffeences between the west and India. The difficult living conditions, the desparation, and the seemingly lesser value placed on human life. Things that would cause a furor in Canada -- such as hundreds of people trampled to death during a religious gatehring -- seem to be accepted here as just part of life in India.
I learned from reading the newspaper yesterday that an extremist Muslim group here in south India is threatening to blow up a bunch of trains leaving Chennai on Friday, February 3 because they claim Muslim prisoners are being tortured. I am taking the train from Chennai to Mysore on Thursday, February 2 and returning on Saturday, February 4, so I wondered if I should be concerned. Terrorism -- or at least the threat of it -- is a part of every day life here. For all of you who are now concerned, please know that I do not take any undue risks. But to be honest, you take your life in your hands just walking down the street here -- never mind trying to cross it! Or getting into an autorickshaw! Or eating and
bas relief
These elephants are part of a HUGE bas relief carved into the rock at Mamallapuram. It's called Arjuna's Penance and it's amazing. One of my favourite things in India so far. drinking! India is challenging .... that's just the way it is ....
Anyway, I talked tp Ajay last night on the phone and he said don't be concerned. The terrorists want to instill fear, and if you let them frighten you, they are winning.
India can also be frustrating because of the language problems -- they only speak a little English -- and a careless attitude you find in some people. (You also find the exact opposite -- incredible caring). I was EXTREMELY frustrated yesterday trying to call Sigrun's hotel to meet up with her. They kept putting me through to the wrong room. I finally had to jump in an autorickshaw and go to her hotel!
But on the other hand, every day I meet incredibly warm and helpful people, which usually makes up for the more frustrating aspects of travel in India. For example, I spent the day yesterday with my Norwegian friend Sigrun, who was stopping here on her way back to Kerala. We met in Kerala at the beginning of January. We went to an amazing temple, devoted to the goddess of wealth, Lakshmi, on the beach, and we we were guided by
temple of the trimurti
Another 1,400 year old temple carved into the rocks at Mamallapurma. There are loads. This one is dedicated to the three main gods, Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva and their consorts Saraswati, Lakshmi and Parvati. a girl, about 12 years old, named Sandya. She was beautiful, warm, fulll of joy. Her eyes sparkled. She made the temple visit so much fun as she guided us through the maze of altars to nine versions of Lakshmi. I said to Sigrun that Sandya was my guru. Her beauty and joy will stay with me for a long time.
I just realized I am writing this a little out of order and it might be confusing to read. Here's the run down: I arrived in Chennai on Saturday, January 28, and spent the entire day in Mamallapuram on Sunday, January 29. I went to KYM (the yoga school) for the first time on Monday, January 30, just to make an appointment for my consultation (school doesn't start until Feburay 6) and Sigrun arrived here in Chennai yesterday, Tuesday, January 31. Today is Wednesday, February 1 -- and I said "rabbits" hours and hours before you, Andy and Victoria! (It's a family thing ....). I just came now from KYM, where I was given a personal practice. The school has a casual, homey feel to it, and very, very nice people. I am looking forward to my course,
Tiger Cave
A cave carved into the rocks north of Mamallapuram, set in a peaceful park. My guide, Coconut Raj, was on the beach when the tsunami struck and ran for his life, but several tourists died. However, he lost his coconut stand and his house. though I think it will be quite intensive.
In the meantime, I am taking advantage of my free time, before school starts, to get to know Chennai and travel in Tamil Nadu. On Sunday I hired a car and driver for the day (it cost the equivalent of $30 for 10 hours) and we went south to Mamallapuram, one of the premier tourist destinations in India. The ancient city of the Pallava kings is famous for stone carving. There are many 1,400 year-old stone temples, reliefs and other statuary in Mamallapuram, most of it near the beach. Apparently the tsunami did not damage these incredible structures. Otherwise, the town is a traveller's enclave, with loads of budget accommodation, seafood shacks, and stores selling touristy things like cotton clothing. Stone carving is still thriving there and there are dozens of stone carvers working in little roadside stalls and selling their wares -- mostly images of Hindu gods. I bought only a small red marble Saraswati (goddess of knowledge and the arts) but oh my there were so many I wanted!
When Sigrun was here yesterday we hired a car and driver for 5 hours and went around Chennai. We
me and bull
Coconut Raj took this of me reclinging on an ancietn bull in front of the Vishnu temple in Tiger Cave park. A very peaceful place with lovely energy -- especially amazing considering the tsunami hit here. shopped at a famous sari store -- the south is famous for silk -- and walked on Chennai's beach. It is the second largest urban beach in the world, afetr Rio, and it is HUGE! It was beautiful to be there at sunset. Our driver told us almost 1,000 people died there when the tsunami struck. Then we went to a fascinating temple, further south in Chennai, home to 9 images of Lakshmi. That's where we were guided by Sandya, my guru.
Today I was at my new school, and here at the cyber cafe, and I am getting ready to go to Mysore very early tomorrow morning. It's hot here, now, because it is just past noon. The high each day is about 30 and the low each night is about 20, so it is good weather. My hotel has a pool and I am swimming every day.
I have been very lucky with the weather every place I have been, though it was chilly some nights in Delhi. But I have avoided the coldest and hottest weather so far ... And I have been lucky with regards to food. I have had no TD (traveller's diarrhea),
temple and street scene
This is the gopuram (tower) of the most famous temple in Chennai, and one of the busy temple streets that surround it. though last night my tummy was a bit turbulent because I had a few bites of dinner at a terrible restaurant before Sigrun and I left to go somewhere else. They made us pay about 80% of the bill, though the food was cold and awful. (And this place came highly recommended by my hotel and two other people!) It was almost the only bad food I have been served in India.
So that's it for now. I am tired from travelling and being in this noisy, challenging country; stiff from not enough yoga and exercise; broke from spending too much money; and I have put on weight due to the rich food. But I definitely feel I am having the trip of a life time, and there have been so many amazing moments that I have not recorded here. I still feel I belong here, for now anyway, though it doesn't make a lot of logical sense. But logical sense it not highly valued in India which is usually a good thing, in my opinion!
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Norma Lepa
non-member comment
First of February is a special day
Hi Mariellen: Thanks for the wonderful travellog..I had to laugh when you said "rabbits" as I had just said it to Uncle Vic when we awoke today...yes, it's a family thing....keep safe..Love, and Kisses